1999 Yukon / Issues with new dual AC

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letsbangout

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This is a LONG story, bear with me please. When I bought my truck with 70k original miles, I was told that the AC system had a leak. Little did I know the low-side cuton switch was also bypassed; how dumb. So one night I tried turning on the AC at highway speeds.. the drive belt broke immediately. (FYI, I had no problem driving another 20 miles with no belt; no overheating issues at highway speeds, no excessive battery drain w/ headlights on, etc. It had enough juice that I could drive it another mile to the parts store to fix it the next day).

So the compressor was immediately bad. It might've been leaking before, or been on the way out, but it was definitely gone at this point. So I bought a new Delco compressor, new Orifice Tube, new Accumulator, new set of Manifold hoses, and a new set of condenser tubes (the ones that run from the front and rear evaporators into a Y-pipe and into the condenser), and a new expansion valve for the rear evaporator. It's my understanding that the expansion valve can get clogged if there is any crap passing through it, which is a reasonable expectation when you have catastrophic compressor failure, so I bought a new one sight-unseen. Also you'd have to get into the back to disconnect the expansion valve in order to flush the system anyway, so might as well start from scratch.

I bought 4 cans of 12oz. charge at Advance Auto parts (my calculations tell me I needed exactly 3.66 of those cans for a full charge), and 8 oz of PAG-150 in the bottle. Yesterday I took my truck to a guy who had an extremely reasonable labor rate and had gauges and a vacuum pump, along with all the tools in a hole-in-the-wall shop. That might've been a mistake. I did a lot of reading beforehand of TSBs in Alldata, as well as documents from Delco like this one: http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/pi/oil_balance_card.pdf - it called for pouring oil into the accumulator and into the compressor. We did that, but maybe half an ounce into each, because the guy had no measuring cup by which to drain and measure the oil in each component. Of course I didn't know that until we were already into it. He had an oil fill attachment on his gauges (goes in-line with the "new refrigerant can tap" so that refrigerant will push the oil into the low side while charging the system).

Here's my problem: the low and high side gauges never got high enough for my liking. I read in the Haynes AC book that it should read 35 and 238. The readings in 78 degree ambient temps were 25 and 200. Thinking back, perhaps the issue was that the compressor already had oil, and we added the full 8oz can on top of that. So the system could be full of oil and thus can't fully cool, even though it's got the right amount of refrigerant, I think.

So tonight, given that I don't own a set of gauges (going to order a Robinaire gauge and hose set very soon!), I bought one of those Interdynamics "charge cans" with a low-side gauge tonight. I hooked up the gauge only, it read 45 on the low side in 78 degree weather. That's a little high. I figured there was either a blockage somewhere, or a bunch of left-over flush in the system (we only vacuumed it for about 25 minutes, and I really wanted to vacuum it more, as I could still see the mist of the Medium Reducer flushing solution coming out of the vacuum pump even after 25 minutes). So I squeezed off some of the low-side gas onto my finger. For the first 2 seconds, it was gaseous, then it started spraying oil more fervently. I let it spray out for a good 5 or 6 seconds onto my finger to check for the presence of contaminants - I saw none, it was clean as a whistle. But I began to notice just how oily the discharge was. I did it again - for the first 2 seconds it was gaseous, and after that it became gaseous and very oily. I blew some out onto my fan shroud to get a good look at it, and it's slightly green. See the picture attached.

One other thing I should say is that the reason for all of this is that it still doesn't cool as much as I think it should. I'm guessing the air is maybe 60 degrees (haven't measured, it's not cold enough to justify that). It should be absolutely freezing right now! In 80 degree weather, at night with no sun, it should be producing 40 degree air inside the vent. So what's the diagnosis; does anyone think as I do that there might be 9 or 10 ounces of oil in the system? And what should I do, suck some of the oily refrigerant out and recharge with new refrigerant? And if that's the case, how do I know when I've gotten out the right amount of oil? Or maybe I'm completely off-base?

Thanks in advance!
 

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SunlitComet

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a few things. get the gauge set and take your own pressure measurements and we can go from there. After you flushed it you should have blow out the system with dry nitrogen and then evacuated for at least 1 hr then add the required oil amount for each compartment. it does sound like you are undercharged a bit.
 
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letsbangout

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a few things. get the gauge set and take your own pressure measurements and we can go from there. After you flushed it you should have blow out the system with dry nitrogen and then evacuated for at least 1 hr then add the required oil amount for each compartment. it does sound like you are undercharged a bit.

Yeah that's what I was thinking too.. lacking refrigerant and too much oil, as evidenced by the fact that it never cycles at idle.. the compressor always stays engaged unless you rev it. It is good and cold once you get going, just not at idle.

I'll get those gauges, recheck and update the thread.
 
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letsbangout

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Ok so I got my gauges and added a 12oz. can. Idle pressures are about 45 and 210. With the rear AC off and running the 1500rpm performance test listed in Alldata (taking into account today's temperature/humidity), I should be seeing maximums of 40.5 low, 260 high, and a maximum vent temp of 59.5 degrees. The best I've been able to do with like 30 low and 260 high is like 64 degrees. I was really hoping for 45ish degrees with the windows closed (the test requires windows to be down for measurement). I blew 60 degrees a little earlier, in the shade and with the windows up at 1500 RPM, so I'm convinced something is wrong.

As for the possibility of having too much oil, I noticed right on the label of the Delco compressor it says it's not shipped with any oil inside. Indeed I rotated it probably 2 full rotations before putting it in, and it didn't produce one drop. The guy doing the work for me said it's not supposed to ship with any oil inside, and so does the guy at my local AC supply house where I buy fittings and odds & ends. So maybe I don't have too much oil after all?

The other possibility is that there was some flush left over in the system. The air we were using to blow it out was regular shop air, probably not even with an attached moisture filter (i.e. the kind you'd use to feed a paint gun). The biggest problem I have with the way we did the repair is that I would've left the vacuum pump on a lot longer because it was still sucking out flush mist even after 25 minutes of operation.

I'll probably end up disassembling everything, blowing it out with some kind of air and re-vacuuming and re-charging. If you guys have any other suggestions I'd love to hear them.
 
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letsbangout

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By the way, the above-mentioned readings were taken in 80 degree weather. And I think I might be overcharged at this point. Compressor is now ticking when engaged, despite the gauges looking pretty normal (or normal to me anyway).

However there's one new development.. I was reading in Alldata that a kink in the high pressure portion of the system would cause it to get cold, i.e. in the liquid line. So I was feeling all over the hoses and it gets cold right before, and definitely after the orifice tube where it sits in the liquid line y-pipe. Is it normal to have the liquid line cold at that fitting where the orifice tube sits? Maybe the o-tube was installed backwards? That's one of the first things the guy at my AC supply shop said...
 

SunlitComet

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Discharge system and blow it out with dry nitrogen only. Evacuate for at least one hour and recharge. If it still has issues you may want to try a special design orifice that can help in hot climates.
 
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letsbangout

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Yeah i'll give that a whirl. Two more things along those lines:

1) Any idea how much Nitrogen I need to blow out the system? And how much should I expect to pay? Is it easy to adapt the tank fitting down to a standard air hose so I can use a blower attachment with the rubber "hose gromet" used to mate the pneumatic blower up to the AC hoses?

2) Do I need one of those specialized orifice tube installer/remover devices, like the Mastercool MAS91002 or the J number referenced in Alldata? Or can I install it by hand and remove it with a screwdriver or something, sacrificing the old tube in the process?
 
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SunlitComet

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Blow it until the output is clear with no sign of mist and what not. Do not forget you will need to redo the oil adding again. I don't know of local costs. you will need an adapter fitting as nitrogen setup typically have acme thread fitting. Perhaps check with a home hvac company for help. They carry notrogen with them at all times. You can usually borrow the orifice tool form autozone with a small deposit.
 
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letsbangout

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Gah now it sounds like the compressor is on it's way out. Whenever it's engaged I can hear a significant "ERRRRRRRR" sound, which isn't present when I disengage the clutch. I also noticed yesterday that it kicked out for a couple minutes when I turned the vent all the way on low, possibly an activation of the internal high-pressure cutoff switch, as the low and high side readings were normal looking.

To make matters worse, I'm not seeing any kind of info on Delco's site about how to RMA something.
 

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