2 2 1/4" Borla Mufflers

[iamdub]

Just found the old post- -26" long, 3" Inlet/outlet.

New Mbrp muffler

Brand new in box just opened for pics. 3" in and out. 26" long. Perfect mix of rumble and good tone when you get on it. Same one on my truck. $75 plus shipping ($30 max). Sells for $105 plus shipping on mbrp website. Need it gone. PayPal please. Feel free to text 989-280-1581

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

So, it's similar enough to compare to what I have. We both have long tubes and no cats. I have 40" of straight-through/packed muffler. This is from a 22" and an 18" butted right next to it. With your 26" plus 13" mufflers, yours should be muffled about as much as mine. You'd have 39" of muffler, but the MBRP and the Borlas have a little less wall thickness (less packing). Also, you're splitting the volume of exhaust going through them Borlas, so each would muffle more effectively. Balance this with yours being a 6.0 (moving more air than mine) and it's about a wash.

All considered, I'd say it'd be muffled sufficiently but still have plenty of bark when you romp on it. You'd need a single 3"-to-dual-2.5" Y to go from the outlet of the MBRP to the inlets of the two Borlas. These look to be about $27 on Amazon. Then you'd need another Y with dual 2.5"-to-whatever the rest of your pipe is. If it's 3", then you'd need two of the same Y. So, about $50 in Ys plus whatever it costs to get it all welded and hung. Universal weld-on hangers are around $5.

Compare this to the cost of another 3" in/out muffler around 15"-18" (whatever you can fit) that you can add in-line to the MBRP and you'd have comparable results but with a much simpler setup. An additional muffler would be $50 or less and would require less fabrication and welding at a shop, so the labor should be cheaper. You could sell the Borlas to someone with a car with two rear-mounted mufflers to nearly make your re-work a wash.

 

[Tonyrodz]

So, it's similar enough to compare to what I have. We both have long tubes and no cats. I have 40" of straight-through/packed muffler. This is from a 22" and an 18" butted right next to it. With your 26" plus 13" mufflers, yours should be muffled about as much as mine. You'd have 39" of muffler, but the MBRP and the Borlas have a little less wall thickness (less packing). Also, you're splitting the volume of exhaust going through them Borlas, so each would muffle more effectively. Balance this with yours being a 6.0 (moving more air than mine) and it's about a wash.

All considered, I'd say it'd be muffled sufficiently but still have plenty of bark when you romp on it. You'd need a single 3"-to-dual-2.5" Y to go from the outlet of the MBRP to the inlets of the two Borlas. These look to be about $27 on Amazon. Then you'd need another Y with dual 2.5"-to-whatever the rest of your pipe is. If it's 3", then you'd need two of the same Y. So, about $50 in Ys plus whatever it costs to get it all welded and hung. Universal weld-on hangers are around $5.

Compare this to the cost of another 3" in/out muffler around 15"-18" (whatever you can fit) that you can add in-line to the MBRP and you'd have comparable results but with a much simpler setup. An additional muffler would be $50 or less and would require less fabrication and welding at a shop, so the labor should be cheaper. You could sell the Borlas to someone with a car with two rear-mounted mufflers to nearly make your re-work a wash.

Yeah, you're def right about selling them. Shop I went to charged me $200 to cut off the old and weld on the new--which is expensive for around here. Which muffler did you get again for your setup? I remember it was similar to a famous/expensive brand, but at a reasonable cost.
Thx for all the help and advice @iamdub!

 

[iamdub]

Yeah, you're def right about selling them. Shop I went to charged me $200 to cut off the old and weld on the new--which is expensive for around here. Which muffler did you get again for your setup? I remember it was similar to a famous/expensive brand, but at a reasonable cost.
Thx for all the help and advice @iamdub!

I have AP Exhaust Xlerator series mufflers. The 18" (#XS1259) I had by itself with an otherwise fully stock exhaust (manifolds, cats, etc.) was perfect. It's a clone of the Magnaflow #12259 and I got it for $34 on Amazon. It's now $62. The Jones Max Flow series looks to be identical to the AP Exhaust. Even their model numbers are similar. They're about the same price after shipping (Summit, Jegs, etc.) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jex-mf1259

The 22" I later added to quiet it down after removing the cats is the AP XS2579, a clone of the Magnaflow #12579. The Jones version is the MF2579, but the AP is about $20 cheaper ($61 on Amazon).

Magnaflow, Jones and AP all advertise as constructing their mufflers with 409 stainless. I couldn't find what packing is used except for Magnaflow, which was stainless (like steel wool) wrapped around the core then fiber ("fiber glass") filling the rest.

For less than what you'd pay a shop to weld it all in, you could buy a $140 flux core welder from Harbor Freight and do it yourself plus have a new, very useful tool. Or, splurge for the $220 one (if you have a 240V receptacle) and have a lot more power and be able to run gas if you progress to that level.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I have AP Exhaust Xlerator series mufflers. The 18" (#XS1259) I had by itself with an otherwise fully stock exhaust (manifolds, cats, etc.) was perfect. It's a clone of the Magnaflow #12259 and I got it for $34 on Amazon. It's now $62. The Jones Max Flow series looks to be identical to the AP Exhaust. Even their model numbers are similar. They're about the same price after shipping (Summit, Jegs, etc.) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jex-mf1259

The 22" I later added to quiet it down after removing the cats is the AP XS2579, a clone of the Magnaflow #12579. The Jones version is the MF2579, but the AP is about $20 cheaper ($61 on Amazon).

Magnaflow, Jones and AP all advertise as constructing their mufflers with 409 stainless. I couldn't find what packing is used except for Magnaflow, which was stainless (like steel wool) wrapped around the core then fiber ("fiber glass") filling the rest.

For less than what you'd pay a shop to weld it all in, you could buy a $140 flux core welder from Harbor Freight and do it yourself plus have a new, very useful tool. Or, splurge for the $220 one (if you have a 240V receptacle) and have a lot more power and be able to run gas if you progress to that level.

Thx for links. If I do it, I'll just use clamps and maybe pipe extensions where needed. I've never welded before, but I've always wanted to learn. No one to teach me tho.

 

[iamdub]

Thx for links. If I do it, I'll just use clamps and maybe pipe extensions where needed. I've never welded before, but I've always wanted to learn. No one to teach me tho.

If you do it and use clamps, then you should go with two straight-through mufflers- your MBRP and whatever else you can fit. There are clamps with hangers on them (like THIS). It'd be pretty easy since it'd be in a straight line.

 

[Tonyrodz]

If you do it and use clamps, then you should go with two straight-through mufflers- you MBRP and whatever else you can fit. There are clamps with hangers on them (like THIS). It'd be pretty easy since it'd be in a straight line.

Don't use an oval bodied muffler? Those clamps are nice.

 

[iamdub]

Don't use an oval bodied muffler? Those clamps are nice.

Oval is fine and I'd recommend it since they have more packing. By straight-through, I mean it's the style of muffler that doesn't have chambers, etc. Even those with an offset (like your Borlas) are considered "straight-through".

 

[Tonyrodz]

Oval is fine and I'd recommend it since they have more packing. By straight-through, I mean it's the style of muffler that doesn't have chambers, etc. Even those with an offset (like your Borlas) are considered "straight-through".

Understood. Do the manufacturers usually state "Straight Through Construction "? Excuse all of my dumb questions, but whenever I've bought a performance muffler, I just got what I thought sounded good to me. I never really did research on any of them.

 

[iamdub]

Understood. Do the manufacturers usually state "Straight Through Construction "? Excuse all of my dumb questions, but whenever I've bought a performance muffler, I just got what I thought sounded good to me. I never really did research on any of them.

Yeah, that term means the same. They're all basically fancy, souped-up glass packs. They flow very well and, if big enough (length and girth), are effective mufflers. Glass packs just don't have much packing around the perforated core, so they're louder. Corsa has straight-through mufflers but they're not packed. They're more like the resonator we often cut off the rear of our exhaust systems, only with a lot more chambers to cancel out a wider range of frequencies. It's still "straight-through construction", though. It just means the flow of exhaust doesn't have to travel through multiple bends and chambers like your average "turbo style" muffler or even the factory muffler.