2000 Tahoe Brake Warning Light Flashing And Chiming

[SJKey1]

I have a 2000 Tahoe with 175,000 miles on it and I just recently replaced all the metal brake lines due to leaks in old lines. I used Dorman Products Stainless Steel ones and did the hydraulic lines as well. I also replaced the ABS Pump (complete unit}, bled the
brakes several times. I then tested the braking action. When I did so, the brake pedal was firm with the engine off, but went down about an inch when pressed with the engine running. Does stop hard while driving, but brake warning light flashes and chimes while doing so and the ABS warning light comes on. Parking brake not set while testing and emergency pads were not readjusted when I replaced all brake pads and calipers in May 2023. Do i have a proportioning valve as well to consider? Could driver side grounding screws be an issue? Do I need to replace the master cylinder? Please advise as my Tahoe has been sitting since April (2024) and I need to get it up and running again. I have just discovered this Forum and registered into the website on November 15th, 2024. Please advise, thankyou!

 

[strutaeng]

Welcome to the forum!

I'm actually not a brake expert (weakness, I know) myself. But hopefully someone with experience will offer good advice.

 

[Scottydoggs]

your gonna need a tech 2 scanner or the likes to bleed the abs pump.

 

[rockola1971]

Yup. OP has some serious air trapped in the lines and behind the ABS manifold solenoid. Gonna need to do a bidirectional scanner auto bleed.

 

[SJKey1]

I have an Autel OBD II scanner that doesn't include an ABS pump function. Does this mean I have to buy a scanner with the ABS component to activate the solenoids in the ABS pump to bleed any air out trapped in the pump so that I have no air whatsoever anywhere in the brake lines? This solution may tighten up the brake pedal movement, but I think the ABS warning light will stay on and the brake warning light will keep blinking and chiming. Please advise, thank you!

 

[rockola1971]

I have an Autel OBD II scanner that doesn't include an ABS pump function. Does this mean I have to buy a scanner with the ABS component to activate the solenoids in the ABS pump to bleed any air out trapped in the pump so that I have no air whatsoever anywhere in the brake lines? This solution may tighten up the brake pedal movement, but I think the ABS warning light will stay on and the brake warning light will keep blinking and chiming. Please advise, thank you!

If you have a chime (a warning chime) then you should have a message on your cluster. Flahing or solid brake light on the cluster means you have a broken line, fitting loose, caliper seal leaking or air trapped in the system from improper bleeding procedure. The crappy pedal feel is a telltale for air trapped in the system.

 

[SJKey1]

I used my Tahoe to move my utility trailer that had been sitting on my front lawn loaded with yard waste when I discovered the leak in my brake line and parked in another location. When doing so, I pulled the parking brake handle out of curiosity and heard the brake release, something that I didn't know had even been activated. When i did so, the flashing brake light went off. Boy do I feel stupid fretting over that problem!
Anyhow, I still have the issue of the ABS warning light still being on. After reading the response from Rockola1971, I did some research and discovered some air can be trapped inside the solenoid area of the ABS pump and you need an ABS rated scanner to work the solenoids enough to clear any bubbles out.
I was wondering if it would be better to bleed the brakes while the engine is running so the ABS pump is activated? I still plan to replace the master cylinder and I did clean up the grounding connection on the frame under the driver's seat.
PS: This could be a really good thread for Tahoe or Yukon owners having brake issues because there are so many things that can go wrong that are hard to fix. Will keep it going if I can have contributors engage with helpful replies.
With that being said, I want to thank those members who have already commented and appreciate the advice they gave.

 

[rockola1971]

I used my Tahoe to move my utility trailer that had been sitting on my front lawn loaded with yard waste when I discovered the leak in my brake line and parked in another location. When doing so, I pulled the parking brake handle out of curiosity and heard the brake release, something that I didn't know had even been activated. When i did so, the flashing brake light went off. Boy do I feel stupid fretting over that problem!
Anyhow, I still have the issue of the ABS warning light still being on. After reading the response from Rockola1971, I did some research and discovered some air can be trapped inside the solenoid area of the ABS pump and you need an ABS rated scanner to work the solenoids enough to clear any bubbles out.
I was wondering if it would be better to bleed the brakes while the engine is running so the ABS pump is activated? I still plan to replace the master cylinder and I did clean up the grounding connection on the frame under the driver's seat.
PS: This could be a really good thread for Tahoe or Yukon owners having brake issues because there are so many things that can go wrong that are hard to fix. Will keep it going if I can have contributors engage with helpful replies.
With that being said, I want to thank those members who have already commented and appreciate the advice they gave.

You are confusing the ABS pump with the ABS manifold(also called a BPMV--Brake Pump Modulator Valve). The pump is in the engine compartment in the area below the master cylinder. The ABS manifold is on your drivers side frame rail and its the box looking thing that all the brake lines attach to.
When using a bi directional scanner it will cycle the solenoid open/close when needed and at the correct time AND run the ABS pump.

This is actually a very common thread subject yearly and there are alot of threads about it. Anyone with an ABS equipped brake system that does their own brake work often has ran into this dilemma before.

If you dont want to bite the bullet and pay someone to bleed the system then get on aliexpress and order up a Tech II with GM software or even an equivalent and it will pay for itself with your brake situation. The Tech II clone runs between $300-350 usually. Just make sure you choose the GM software disc because there are others available for other countries like the Holden software for Australia which is basically their "GM".

 

[rockola1971]

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807719084437.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.6f42rHflrHflHd&algo_pvid=c7481553-1e77-4d6b-994c-165bc417a8d3&algo_exp_id=c7481553-1e77-4d6b-994c-165bc417a8d3-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21400.01%21280.01%21%21%212884.00%212018.80%21%40210318ec17321602054825749eb602%2112000042789790193%21sea%21US%21931481704%21X&curPageLogUid=m6zFmmjQS1FB&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

 

[SJKey1]

To Rockola1971:
Thanks for the input. Didn't even know about the ABS manifold(also called a BPMV (Brake Pump Modulator Valve). Now I have more research to do in my Tahoe technical manual to decide what procedure to follow and the error codes that apply.