2000 Yukon Ball Joint questions.........

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dorr913

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I just recently purchased a higher mileage Yukon 4x4. I had some steering issues going on so I took it to the local chevy dealership. Ended up beeing a lower ball joint on the driver side. This was a nice $500 to have done. Well after driving it, I'm thinking the lower on the other side needs replaced as well, and if the lowers do, the uppers probably need attended to as well.

Well, I don't feel like paying $1000 to have all that done. I have never replaced ball joints before and I would like to give it a go. What I'm curious about it what tools I will need for this job.

So far, it looks like the only special tool I will need it the ball joint press, is this correct? And can one of those be rented from advanced auto? From there it looks like I just need standard tools (hammer, socket and wrench set, and maybe a case of beer).

My next question is, does the front need completely dissasembled for me to remove the ball joints? Meaning do I have to take out the control arms or can I just seperate the lower ball joint while its on the vehicle, or do I need to remove the rotor, brakes, all that etc......

I'm not a mechanic, but I feel fairly competent in my mechanical abilities?


Any help in advance would be amazing!!!!!!

Thanks, Bryan.
 

taylorjm

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Step #1: Find a mechanic instead of the dealership. When I had my lower ball joint done, I know it was less than $200. When I had both the upper and lower on one side done at the same time, it was about $300.
 
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dorr913

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Your probably right, but I'm kind of wanting to try it myself. I've already dumped enough money into this thing, so now I'm trying to save in every area that I can.
 

thegeneral

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I've replaced the BJ's on my 2000 XL twice, (kind of) straight forward.

While you're doing it, you might want to replace the brake pads and rotors if they need it as they will be taken apart in the process.


1. Remove tire.
2. pop off dust cover on axle nut.
3. put tire back on, lower truck.
4. loosen axle nut just enough to break it free.
5. lift back up.
6. remove tire.
7. remove axle nut.
8. remove tie rod nut.
9. Use hammer or tie rod seperator to seperate tie rod. Hammer on tie rod bolt works better if you don't damage the bolt. Tie rod fork may damage the boot of the tie rod. If it is a factory tie rod, you'll need a fork. if it has been replaced in the past, a quick hit will dislodge it. Set it aside.
10. remove brake caliper. (not sure of the torx bolt size)
11. Remove caliper bracket. 2 bolts.
12. remove upper and lower ball joint nuts. They may have cotter pins in them which will have to be removed prior.
13. use ball joint/tie rod fork to seperate the ball joints from the steering knuckle.
14. Rent a ball joint press.
15. MAJOR thing to remember, if the ball joint press cup does not fit almost exactly, try and get an extra different set of cups to help. Harbor freight has a great 14 pc. set for 99.00
16. Press them out and press the new ones in.
17. Repeat process backwards.
18. Remember if you're replacing pads or rotors, use caliper grease on slides, bolts, back of pads, and pistons. And get new slides (they clip in, 8-10.00 for new ones) They keep it from squealing.
19. One more thing- You will need an alingment- so if you may need new tie rod ends or ins replace them. Might be a good time to check the idler. pitman arm, and center link as well.

For the price of two ball joints installed you can have have 4 new balljoints, new tie rods, a new pitman arm, idler arm and center link. A whole new front end.

Check your hubs for play when you have the knuckle off, if you spin them and you hear bad noises, it's time to replace...

Let me know if you get stuck.

---------- Post added at 12:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:16 AM ----------

Order the upper control arms with ball joints installed (MOOGS). The upper bushings tend to go so you can kill two birds with one stone.

Where are you located?

---------- Post added at 12:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 AM ----------

And make sure to torque down all nuts to factory specs!
 

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