2001 Yukon removing O2 sensor upstream Bank 1

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Ella ramaley

Ella ramaley

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When replacing O2 sensors, I usually snip the sensor wire right at the top of the old sensor. The sensor is going in the trash anyway...

Then, I unclip the cut end of the sensor wire from the harness connector. Cutting the wire at the old sensor allows me to get on there with a good box wrench to remove it easily.

Hand-thread the new sensor into the port on the exhaust with the wire disconnected. That way, the wire can spin all it wants while the the sensor turns. Then I use an open-end wrench to tighten until it feels "tight enough". Like a spark plug... tight, but not too tight.

Once the sensor is in and tightened, connect the new sensor wire connector to the harness connector and push the retainer clip back into the hole on the frame to keep the wire from flopping around.

No need for fancy "O2 Sensor socket" (the special socket with the slot).

There are other tricks, like twisting the wire before wrenching it in. That works fine.
It is just that I never find the right number of twists and it bugs me when the wire is left with a bunch of extra twists in it, so I let the wire dangle unconnected until I am all done spinning the sensor around during install.
Thanks so much for this information. The problem I was having getting the retainer screw thing back out of the frame hole. I couldn’t get the old one out with out cutting the tip off. And same with the new one after I made the mistake of attaching that end before screwing in the sensor.
Unfortunately, I’m still getting the service engine light and code P1133
The problem started when driving from MT to UT. Filled up with gas in Idaho falls and noticed my gas was being used up fast and loss of power up hills. When got home I could smell gas on the outside. I checked for codes and got p1133 and P 420. So started reading and thought I should change the upstream O2 sensor bank 1
 

MassHoe04

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Did you already try clearing the code with a scan tool and it came back?
If not try clearing it with the scanner.

You might also get it to clear out by driving a certain time/distance.
A couple of drives might get it to clear out.

If you did clear the code and tried driving a while on several trips and the code persists, let us know. Your issue might be a damaged wire or connection.
 

Fless

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So just the Christmas tree retainer. A metal auto trim tool would work on those, although they can be more than a little difficult. I thought you cut the wires.
 
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Ella ramaley

Ella ramaley

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Did you already try clearing the code with a scan tool and it came back?
If not try clearing it with the scanner.

You might also get it to clear out by driving a certain time/distance.
A couple of drives might get it to clear out.

If you did clear the code and tried driving a while on several trips and the code persists, let us know. Your issue might be a damaged wire or connection.
After installing the sensor, I checked for codes and then cleared them. I then drove about 10 miles and the service engine light came on. When I got home checked the codes and only the P1133 code was there.
 

Fless

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If your scanner can clear the fuel trims, try doing that in addition to clearing the code. Might need to disconnect the battery after that for 10 min or so, and reconnect.
 
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Ella ramaley

Ella ramaley

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If your scanner can clear the fuel trims, try doing that in addition to clearing the code. Might need to disconnect the battery after that for 10 min or so, and reconnect.
I checked for codes today before I drove it and no codes showed up. I drove about 25 miles and no service engine light. So we’ll see. I did order another upstream sensor for the other side. I read somewhere here that both should be changed at the same time or there maybe problems.
 

MassHoe04

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I checked for codes today before I drove it and no codes showed up. I drove about 25 miles and no service engine light. So we’ll see. I did order another upstream sensor for the other side. I read somewhere here that both should be changed at the same time or there maybe problems.
That is a good idea. The upstreams are the ones that really control how much fuel is fed to the engine based on sensor readings. Matched pairs are recommended.

AC-Delco or Denso are the preferred and most recommended brands to ensure compatibility.
I can't remember 100%, but I thought I saw Denso was reported to have been the AC-Delco manufacturer for the OEM part under the GM label.

NTK is another reliable OEM-quality replacement.

I used Denso (part #: DEN 2344668) from NAPA on mine. No issues at all since November 2021.

It was nice of the GM engineers to use the same part for all four O2 sensors! Makes ordering easier and cheaper.

My 05 Jeep Rubicon had a different sensor on each position. Of course, prices were different for every one! Depending on where you were shopping, not every place had all four in stock either...

Having the same part for all four sensors in the GM is so much better. Everyone has them, they are in stock and cheap.
 

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