2003 Suburban with a ton of miles... CHEAP.

[HiHoeSilver]

Well, vehicle has a clean bill of health.

Both diff fluids were changed
transmission fluid and filter changed
Brakes replaced
front transfer case motor replaced
valve cover gaskets replaced and heads inspected visually
Coolant leak was a plastic fitting by the firewall for the heater core
The Limited Slip Differential clutch material are worn and need new friction material (on order and will be replaced, super common in Alaska apparently).

Drove it 30 miles and so far no dash messages and everything seems to work as it should, even the transmission isn't slipping anymore... Need to drive it more as the 1-2 shift is still super firm. I have a new valve body in case the current one needs to be replaced. The shop suggested I drive it around for a while and when he gets the stuff for the LSD he will call me and if the valve body needs to be replaced he will do it at that time.

We traded work, so cost was $0!

Best $1500 I have ever spent on a vehicle.

Great news!

 

[Tonyrodz]

Well, vehicle has a clean bill of health.

Both diff fluids were changed
transmission fluid and filter changed
Brakes replaced
front transfer case motor replaced
valve cover gaskets replaced and heads inspected visually
Coolant leak was a plastic fitting by the firewall for the heater core
The Limited Slip Differential clutch material are worn and need new friction material (on order and will be replaced, super common in Alaska apparently).

Drove it 30 miles and so far no dash messages and everything seems to work as it should, even the transmission isn't slipping anymore... Need to drive it more as the 1-2 shift is still super firm. I have a new valve body in case the current one needs to be replaced. The shop suggested I drive it around for a while and when he gets the stuff for the LSD he will call me and if the valve body needs to be replaced he will do it at that time.

We traded work, so cost was $0!

Best $1500 I have ever spent on a vehicle.

Nothing like the good ol' barter system

 

[Rocket Man]

Well, vehicle has a clean bill of health.

Both diff fluids were changed
transmission fluid and filter changed
Brakes replaced
front transfer case motor replaced
valve cover gaskets replaced and heads inspected visually
Coolant leak was a plastic fitting by the firewall for the heater core
The Limited Slip Differential clutch material are worn and need new friction material (on order and will be replaced, super common in Alaska apparently).

Drove it 30 miles and so far no dash messages and everything seems to work as it should, even the transmission isn't slipping anymore... Need to drive it more as the 1-2 shift is still super firm. I have a new valve body in case the current one needs to be replaced. The shop suggested I drive it around for a while and when he gets the stuff for the LSD he will call me and if the valve body needs to be replaced he will do it at that time.

We traded work, so cost was $0!

Best $1500 I have ever spent on a vehicle.

Awesome!

 

[adventurenali92]

Glad to hear she got a clean bill of health!!

 

[alaska_guy]

Brake booster message came back on the cluster. I took a 6 pin delphi connector off ebay, removed the brake booster assist factory plug from the assist booster and plugged in my male harness that I made by jumping the two most outter wires and it removed the message from the cluster. Brakes work fine as they are vacuum booster driven. This year 2003 came with an assist pump that is no longer in production/used and the jumper mod worked great! Put about another 30 miles on it today and so far so good.

I need some decent seat covers for the driver/passenger as the leather is pretty worn. Nothing fancy, just something that fits these seats.

Wanting some better tail lights with led bulbs as backing up with the stockers kinda sucks. Looking for some black housing based front headlights too that are plug and play. I think that's all I will do until spring hits.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Brake booster message came back on the cluster. I took a 6 pin delphi connector off ebay, removed the brake booster assist factory plug from the assist booster and plugged in my male harness that I made by jumping the two most outter wires and it removed the message from the cluster. Brakes work fine as they are vacuum booster driven. This year 2003 came with an assist pump that is no longer in production/used and the jumper mod worked great! Put about another 30 miles on it today and so far so good.

I need some decent seat covers for the driver/passenger as the leather is pretty worn. Nothing fancy, just something that fits these seats.

Wanting some better tail lights with led bulbs as backing up with the stockers kinda sucks. Looking for some black housing based front headlights too that are plug and play. I think that's all I will do until spring hits.

Here's mine.
Heads are Spec D. with leds, highs/lows.




Tails--
Led in the reverse, and those cluster bulbs for the brake/signal. I had leds for the brakes, but output sucked--these are much better.

 

[alaska_guy]

Thanks. Looking good! $70-80 in shipping for headlights here sucks to say the least. I may have to buy a different brand via amazon to get free shipping and possibly seal the headlights with silicone to help prevent moisture. Crazy when shipping is more expensive than the actual product.

 

[adventurenali92]

Thanks. Looking good! $70-80 in shipping for headlights here sucks to say the least. I may have to buy a different brand via amazon to get free shipping and possibly seal the headlights with silicone to help prevent moisture. Crazy when shipping is more expensive than the actual product.

@05Single has that issue with Alaska and buying stuff online. Lol.

 

[05Single]

@05Single has that issue with Alaska and buying stuff online. Lol.

The struggle is real.

 

[alaska_guy]

Nice ride! Managed to solder on my rear defrost tab today since it warmed up! All the mechanical stuff seems to be taken care of besides a rouge low coolant on the dash when I start up the vehicle. It goes away almost immediately. My bet is on the coolant overflow tank sensor being stuck. Not loosing coolant anymore after the heater core adapter fix. I could try jumping the two together on the sensor plug and see if the message no longer comes back as a quick diagnosis... I guess I will do that down the road if it continues to come back.