2003 Tahoe coolant system leak or head gasket leak?

[tRidiot]

Cylinder Bore Deglazing - Purpose - Proper Crosshatch And Angle

The cylinder bore deglazing process is basically, removing the glaze from your engines cylinder walls. Because, having the proper finish, is extremely

dannysengineportal.com

Yours look to be pretty smooth and 'glazed'.

This is what you want, from what I understand:


This is what he meant, I'm not sure too much if this is something you should go tearing into, since you're just doing a top half, but I'm not an expert. I just recognized what he was talking about - has to do with oil coating the cylinder surface, seating of the rings, etc.

 

[MassHoe04]

If it were mine... I see nothing of serious concern in photo of the cylinders. If you were doing a full block tear-down with new pistons and rings, I would want to hone the cylinder walls to get that nice cross-hatch pattern on there to help new rings and pistons settle in.

If the pistons and rings are staying in, I would leave the cylinder walls alone. Especially, if spark plugs and injectors had no oil on them and there was no oil consumption or blue smoke. Don't poke the bear!

Other than a good cleaning, I would not mess with the cylinder walls unless new rings were going in. Changing the surface profile of the cylinder walls and keeping the old rings might just be asking for new problems...

I would clean the walls and call it good. I would vote for no honing, if not putting in new rings.

 

[tomloans]

Well, this is interesting news. Prior to teardown, motor ran like new with lot's of power. No smoke at all. Spark Plugs are perfect, injectors were amazingly clean and the build up of carbon on the cylinders and valves was what I would consider normal for this many miles. I think I am going to put it back together and call it a day. I have about 210k miles on it and I am hoping to get another 5 to 10 years out of the motor and then figure it out then. We put about 6k miles per year max on this vehicle and hopefully I will have it for another 10 years. My wife loves it and doesn't want to get rid of it.

I think if I were to mess with the block, I would just drop a rebuild in it and keep the heads (for the inevitable problem on my other 03 Tahoe - I have 2 Tahoe's).

Well now I am concerned though. If I have this kind of wear on the cylinder walls, wondering how the rod bearings are?

 

[tRidiot]

It's not really bad wear - it's expected glazing after this many miles. I wouldn't expect good crosshatching with this many miles. As @MassHoe04 noted above, I don't think you should worry about it. It ran, there were no signs or symptoms of trouble with the block, leave it alone.

 

[tomloans]

It's not really bad wear - it's expected glazing after this many miles. I wouldn't expect good crosshatching with this many miles. As @MassHoe04 noted above, I don't think you should worry about it. It ran, there were no signs or symptoms of trouble with the block, leave it alone.

Yep that's the plan. Can't tell you all how much I appreciate the insight and the experience. I have done a lot of work with these cars over the years I have owned them but this was likely the most extensive so far. The little idiosyncrasies are what experience provides so you don't botch it. Also for the record, I reattached two very weak grounds in the back of the engine as well. One broke as I was working on the engine. I reattached them and pulled another ground directly to the battery just to be sure. These grounds can cause all kinds of havoc if not attached solidly.

 

[tomloans]

What are these for....? Valve Stem seals? I dont think I need them as the new heads have them installed?

 

[iamdub]

What are these for....? Valve Stem seals? I dont think I need them as the new heads have them installed?

Yup- valve stem seals. Blue for intake, maroon for exhaust. Save 'em for a rainy day or for someone else in need.

 

[iamdub]

Yep that's the plan. Can't tell you all how much I appreciate the insight and the experience. I have done a lot of work with these cars over the years I have owned them but this was likely the most extensive so far. The little idiosyncrasies are what experience provides so you don't botch it. Also for the record, I reattached two very weak grounds in the back of the engine as well. One broke as I was working on the engine. I reattached them and pulled another ground directly to the battery just to be sure. These grounds can cause all kinds of havoc if not attached solidly.

You likely caught a problem waiting to happen. Might I suggest adding a Big 3 upgrade to your "bored" list?

 

[tomloans]

"Might I suggest adding a Big 3 upgrade to your "bored" list?"

Chris, I have no idea what this means.

 

[iamdub]

"Might I suggest adding a Big 3 upgrade to your "bored" list?"

Chris, I have no idea what this means.

It's up grading the wire gauge of the three main power circuits: Battery negative to frame, engine block to frame and battery positive to alternator charge post.

I did a "Big 5" by upgrading the starter positive and body sheet metal to engine block ground.

My junk: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1567413 and https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1567416

...Part 2: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1570382

...aaand, finally, Part 3: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/post-1615659