Sam Harris
Supporting Member
Damn! Right on man! Merry Christmas! [emoji16][emoji106][emoji319][emoji631]
Looking forward to your progress!
2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe
- Thread starter Dantheman1540
- Start date
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Looking forward to your progress!
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
This might have been the first time I've used rock auto and I am impressed! Everything was here in 3 days with normal shipping and nothing was damaged. The most important thing is, that it appears to be all true Moog problem solver parts!
Hurry up coilovers this ball joint is clicking like a time bomb and daddy Dan needs his war wagon!
Hurry up coilovers this ball joint is clicking like a time bomb and daddy Dan needs his war wagon!
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Dantheman1540
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Uhg I'm being tortured by shipping companies! Still no coilovers or ETA on them. Also got my *** trap back along with half the lift but not enough to start working on it. So I have 2 days off and nothing to do but a small fence repair 
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Dantheman1540
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Uhg Still waiting on coilovers for the Tahoe! I hope that coil over swap goes as well as the front end upgrades I just did on my Taco. Less than 3 hours and it was blasting down my sandy road on the way to get tacos for dinner, its so nice to work on something with low miles. Also I highly recommend Camburg parts to anyone that has a vehicle they support, nicest UCAs I've ever Installed.
Hopefully I'll have the rear buttoned up tomorrow and then off to alignment.
P.S. yeah I know nobody cares about Toyotas.....Sue me
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Hopefully I'll have the rear buttoned up tomorrow and then off to alignment.
P.S. yeah I know nobody cares about Toyotas.....Sue me
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Dantheman1540
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Still no coilovers but it's about to hit 260k so its oil change time. Had a strange oil pressure event 3 or 4 times since it's been cold. It has to be in the 30s all night and have sat for 8 hours or longer for it to happen. Basically start the truck and terrible lifter clatter and all around engine noise with very little oil pressure around 10psi. It lasts for about 2 minutes but if I give it throttle or start driving it will come up some like 25-30psi. After 2 minutes boom back to 70psi during cruise. I thought maybe it's some sludge in the oil pump because it looked moderately gross when I did the cam. So I put a bottle of Marvel mystery oil in last week to run for a bit and hopefully help clean some stuff. Then I realized when the valve dropped I flushed the oil galleys with coolant and then multiple oil changes in a row so I doubt its sludge. Basically I've summed it up to running 15w-40 with Lucas oil stabilizer in to cold of weather. This oil change it's back to 5w-30 with Lucas and hopefully that won't happen anymore, it scared me enough to start looking for crate motors.
Anyway cheapest full synthetic at walmart and some Lucas went in smooth along with a Wix tall boy. Magnet looked good to me, I was expecting a full fro and maybe some chunks. Oil filter looked really good and had no sludge or even a little unicorn blood.
Lastly I checked the catch can and it had almost nothing at the bottom but the 0000 steel wool at the top was full! So I think that's working better than just the corase steel packing.
Its an absolute joy to change the oil on something old with high miles and see no leaks.
Anyway cheapest full synthetic at walmart and some Lucas went in smooth along with a Wix tall boy. Magnet looked good to me, I was expecting a full fro and maybe some chunks. Oil filter looked really good and had no sludge or even a little unicorn blood.
Lastly I checked the catch can and it had almost nothing at the bottom but the 0000 steel wool at the top was full! So I think that's working better than just the corase steel packing.
Its an absolute joy to change the oil on something old with high miles and see no leaks.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Still no coilovers but it's about to hit 260k so its oil change time. Had a strange oil pressure event 3 or 4 times since it's been cold. It has to be in the 30s all night and have sat for 8 hours or longer for it to happen. Basically start the truck and terrible lifter clatter and all around engine noise with very little oil pressure around 10psi. It lasts for about 2 minutes but if I give it throttle or start driving it will come up some like 25-30psi. After 2 minutes boom back to 70psi during cruise. I thought maybe it's some sludge in the oil pump because it looked moderately gross when I did the cam. So I put a bottle of Marvel mystery oil in last week to run for a bit and hopefully help clean some stuff. Then I realized when the valve dropped I flushed the oil galleys with coolant and then multiple oil changes in a row so I doubt its sludge. Basically I've summed it up to running 15w-40 with Lucas oil stabilizer in to cold of weather. This oil change it's back to 5w-30 with Lucas and hopefully that won't happen anymore, it scared me enough to start looking for crate motors.
Anyway cheapest full synthetic at walmart and some Lucas went in smooth along with a Wix tall boy. Magnet looked good to me, I was expecting a full fro and maybe some chunks. Oil filter looked really good and had no sludge or even a little unicorn blood.
Lastly I checked the catch can and it had almost nothing at the bottom but the 0000 steel wool at the top was full! So I think that's working better than just the corase steel packing.
Its an absolute joy to change the oil on something old with high miles and see no leaks.
View attachment 266600 View attachment 266598 View attachment 266601 View attachment 266599 View attachment 266597
30s isn't very cold. I'm wondering if your oil pump is losing prime? I guess we'll find out soon if the lighter oil works!
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Dantheman1540
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Yeah looking at what weight oil is good for what temp I thought the same but anytime its 40s or above it's fine. Actually Monday night it got into the 30s and it had sat all night but with the marvel mystery in the oil and the morning startup was fine. Very strange but I really don't want to touch the pan it doesn't leak and I love it lol.
iamdub
Full Access Member
If it still does it with the new oil, try priming it the next time. Hold the pedal to the floor (well, clutch and throttle in your case) and crank it for about 10 seconds. I don't know if the GMT800 PCM stops the cranking like it does on the GMT900. Let the starter cool for a bit, then repeat. Let off the throttle and crank as normal to see if there's any change.
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Dantheman1540
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After seeing @iamdub replace his evap canister a few weeks ago I thought "damn I hope I don't have to do that I hate those OEM fuel line connectors." Well about that time I noticed the pump handle would click off on it's own after just a few gallons. It got progressively worse over the last couple weeks to the point I had to hold it half way the entire time. I fill up 2-3 times a week and that was getting irritating fast.
So after doing the oil change I figured I might as well start off 2021 with a punishing task. There is just no room where the canister is with the 14b and being low. Ended up hitting my head really ******* the spare tire dangly thingy so it got cut out, same with some random bracket just sitting there not doing a damn thing.
Actually replaced the canister and valve pretty quick and easy but then decided to tackle a problem I've had since doing the 1410 yoke on the 14b. The yoke hits the evap bracket unless I run massive bump stops to kill all up travel and make for a harsh rear ride. I made it better than it originally was with some big rubber bumps but I still bumped out pretty often and my GF disliked it. So I realized the bracket it actually bolted to another bracket that spaces the whole thing probably 2-4" from the crossmember that runs almost even with the floor. Hacked that junk out and bolted it directly to that cross member freeing up a lot of space. Cut about an Inch off the bumps and its definitely better but there's a good bump down my local Mexico mile that it will still bottom out on so further hackery may be required.
So after doing the oil change I figured I might as well start off 2021 with a punishing task. There is just no room where the canister is with the 14b and being low. Ended up hitting my head really ******* the spare tire dangly thingy so it got cut out, same with some random bracket just sitting there not doing a damn thing.
Actually replaced the canister and valve pretty quick and easy but then decided to tackle a problem I've had since doing the 1410 yoke on the 14b. The yoke hits the evap bracket unless I run massive bump stops to kill all up travel and make for a harsh rear ride. I made it better than it originally was with some big rubber bumps but I still bumped out pretty often and my GF disliked it. So I realized the bracket it actually bolted to another bracket that spaces the whole thing probably 2-4" from the crossmember that runs almost even with the floor. Hacked that junk out and bolted it directly to that cross member freeing up a lot of space. Cut about an Inch off the bumps and its definitely better but there's a good bump down my local Mexico mile that it will still bottom out on so further hackery may be required.
