pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Nice find! Glad you're making progress btw. I just realized I never responded to your post. Feels good to get somewhere!
2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe
- Thread starter Dantheman1540
- Start date
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
I think it’s actually done! There’s two small things I’m gonna change/play with tho. For one the compressor kicks off under 100% TPS which is good because you don’t want to destroy it. However, it only reenables at 0% TPS, problem is at idle the truck is at 11.6% TPS. Therefore the compressor won’t kick back on until the key is cycled. Kinda dumb, not sure what the problem is because the re-enable at 0%tps is a factory setting.
Also during his struggles to make my truck not stall returning to idle he pumped some of the throttle cracker airflow cells really high at exactly 16mph. So when I hit 16mph it tries to rev up to 1,800ish. I’m gonna drop that back down now that the maf is dead on.
Lastly if gonna play with my Efan settings a hair because I burned up another fan relay for seemingly no reason.
randeez
Full Access Member
tuning on a period correct laptop....nice
not sure if compressor is controlled by bcm or not for your years, but it should be in the little fan system icon if its controlled by the ecm
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pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
I sent you the tune from my Camaro a long time ago. Compare that to yours on the ac stuff. I've never had an issue with that, only slight idle issues when a/c is on and I'm coming to a stop. I'll sort that out when the time comes
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Wait a sec, yours is supposed to disable and re-enable at the same time?
OP
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
I’ll have to dig wayyyy back in my Gmail or search my dell lol.
randeez
Full Access Member
No...it's controlled by the bcm in gmt900s (atleast for auto climate controlled*) so the ecm doesn't do anything changing those. not sure if same for 800s...
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
I will look when I get a chance, I have a few other factory tunes to copy from, as well as my RCSB that ran flawless and never had AC issues.
Oh yeah, gmt800 it definitely makes a difference lol.
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Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Some big decisions regarding this truck have been officially made and there’s no turning back now………
Basically I’m pulling all the 4x4 bits out of my RCSB and plan to swap them into the Tahoe.
To start with, I’m pulling the 4.10 gears and E locker out of the hummer H2 rear axle and plan to regear my AXN 9.5 from 3.42s to 4.10 and ditch the G80 finally. The G80 is really pissing me off lately. During this rear axle regear I’ll have to pull the axle to send to my axle guy and I refuse to reinstall my broken/rewelded helwig endlinks. I also think the rear UCAs are toast, I remember seeing rust dust around the bushing sleeve and I think it’s the source of a minor squeak I’ve been hearing. Hopefully during disassembly I won’t notice anything else that needs replacing but I do also plan to paint the barrels and hats of the rear rotors so they don’t look so gross rusted.
Once the truck is working well with the 4.10s, electronic locker, and refreshed suspension. I’ll order a slew of replacement parts for the 4x4 swap. The 4x4 NV4500 I have is low mile (25kish) and always shifted much better than the Tahoe trans so that’s easy. I will clean up the Centerforce single disk sporty clutch that was in my RCSB for 1k miles and plan to use that. Along with the metal Atomic Fab clutch pedal bracket. The transfer case also o my has about 25k on it so beside fresh fluids it should be ready to slap in. I’ll need to shorten the rear driveshaft but I believe the RCSB front will fit. If it does it will still be refreshed. Along with the Tcase and trans the front diff is low mile and is 4.10 so besides whatever is needed to install it, it will stay the same. Slap in some decent quality CV axles into the already 4x4 front wheel bearings I installed years ago and the swap should be simple. That is until I have to redo the entire exhaust. This time it’s going to a damn shop, dual cutouts after the collectors and whatever quiet shit they can fit after that.
I don’t want the truck to look any different from the outside although the next set of tires will likely be an AT.
Basically I’m pulling all the 4x4 bits out of my RCSB and plan to swap them into the Tahoe.
To start with, I’m pulling the 4.10 gears and E locker out of the hummer H2 rear axle and plan to regear my AXN 9.5 from 3.42s to 4.10 and ditch the G80 finally. The G80 is really pissing me off lately. During this rear axle regear I’ll have to pull the axle to send to my axle guy and I refuse to reinstall my broken/rewelded helwig endlinks. I also think the rear UCAs are toast, I remember seeing rust dust around the bushing sleeve and I think it’s the source of a minor squeak I’ve been hearing. Hopefully during disassembly I won’t notice anything else that needs replacing but I do also plan to paint the barrels and hats of the rear rotors so they don’t look so gross rusted.
Once the truck is working well with the 4.10s, electronic locker, and refreshed suspension. I’ll order a slew of replacement parts for the 4x4 swap. The 4x4 NV4500 I have is low mile (25kish) and always shifted much better than the Tahoe trans so that’s easy. I will clean up the Centerforce single disk sporty clutch that was in my RCSB for 1k miles and plan to use that. Along with the metal Atomic Fab clutch pedal bracket. The transfer case also o my has about 25k on it so beside fresh fluids it should be ready to slap in. I’ll need to shorten the rear driveshaft but I believe the RCSB front will fit. If it does it will still be refreshed. Along with the Tcase and trans the front diff is low mile and is 4.10 so besides whatever is needed to install it, it will stay the same. Slap in some decent quality CV axles into the already 4x4 front wheel bearings I installed years ago and the swap should be simple. That is until I have to redo the entire exhaust. This time it’s going to a damn shop, dual cutouts after the collectors and whatever quiet shit they can fit after that.
I don’t want the truck to look any different from the outside although the next set of tires will likely be an AT.
