2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

[pwtr02ss]

So I’ve been needing tires for awhile and just really didn’t want to buy new ones because I’m a cheap phuck. A deal popped up on something I’ve wanted since I was probably 5 and part of the deal was to trade my black AT4 20s. Luckily I have my buddies still blown up 408 Denali in my yard so I stole his maybe 2021 Highcountry 20s?

I think they look pretty good, also here’s what I traded for. I put cash on top as well of course.

Cool Jeep!

You got the matching army green crocs yet?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Could use an LS swap.
Is it a 1940's Jeep?

No the original Go Devil flathead 4cylinder works great! Starts faster than anything I’ve ever owned. And yes it’s a 1948 CJ2A

Willy's.

Yes sir! Before water fowl on dash boards became a thing.

Cool Jeep!

You got the matching army green crocs yet?

No actually I’m sanding the green off to match my crocs.


Kinda cool I wasn’t sure what color lay beneath but apparently the was originally a sky blue, then burnt orange, then forest green, then bubba spray camo lol. I’m going to get the whole thing as Blue and orange as I can then slap on a wipe on clear coat like Poppy’s patina.

Also those got new tails to better match the new wheels, I’m really digging the wheels and tires, quieter, and I like the look. Never was a fan of a blackout look, but those black wheels were the best deal at the time.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Other news to report, last week driving Tahoe home the airbag warning light started to come on randomly, then the temp climbed above 210, and volt gauge seemed well below 14.

Got it home and the only thing I found was low almost an entire jug of coolant, I haven’t driven it much since the last time it was down coolant. I see no leaks, no sign of it burning coolant, and no idea wtf. I filled it back up and trailered the Willy’s to show and tell at work today without any issue, very strange.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Finally got the Chevrolet center caps in for the new wheels, also swapped out the old keyed lugs nuts for some 2022 OEMs. I think these are my fav wheel setup so far.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Two questions for y’all.

1: anybody ever run a lithium battery? I bought a pretty sweet 100ah 12v LiTime brand trolling motor battery that even comes with its own blue tooth app. It has kicked but for me and being a CCP produced battery was under $300, and only weighs 22#! Would be sweet to try one for automotive stuff it claims a 10 year lifespan.

2: What’s the best top mount battery conversion setup out there now? I despise side posts but don’t remember ever seeing a good top mount setup for these trucks.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Two questions for y’all.

1: anybody ever run a lithium battery? I bought a pretty sweet 100ah 12v LiTime brand trolling motor battery that even comes with its own blue tooth app. It has kicked but for me and being a CCP produced battery was under $300, and only weighs 22#! Would be sweet to try one for automotive stuff it claims a 10 year lifespan.

2: What’s the best top mount battery conversion setup out there now? I despise side posts but don’t remember ever seeing a good top mount setup for these trucks.

No help for ya on that one. Sorry

 

[Dantheman1540]

No help for ya on that one. Sorry

What good are you?

 

[pwtr02ss]

What good are you?

I shine in other departments

 

[j91z28d1]

Two questions for y’all.

1: anybody ever run a lithium battery? I bought a pretty sweet 100ah 12v LiTime brand trolling motor battery that even comes with its own blue tooth app. It has kicked but for me and being a CCP produced battery was under $300, and only weighs 22#! Would be sweet to try one for automotive stuff it claims a 10 year lifespan.

2: What’s the best top mount battery conversion setup out there now? I despise side posts but don’t remember ever seeing a good top mount setup for these trucks.

so the little I know about these batterys is it's all about the internal bms. c rating of the cells is what discharge load they can handle. there's more expensive high discharge cells and cheaper low c rating. usually for stuff like your tolling motor or solar back up. but really unless you're cranking on your truck for 5 mins straight, even a low c cell bank shouldn't blink at a 4 sec start up. but then you get to the bms, they range all over the place.(unregulated and made by the cheapest price China electronics always do) some cut off at 100amps, which might not start your consistently. others in "cranking" marketed battery are more like 350 to 500amps. either way they will all open the contacts before it overheats. charging can be interesting. if you use one for a trolling motor, or anything that will charge from a proper lithium charger it will be current limited as well as stop at the full voltage. if any one cell is over max voltage, it will open the internal contactor. in a cranking one for a car, if the bms is good, meaning much more expensive, it can limit the current your alt can put back into it. if it's not designed to be in a car, it will take full charge from your alt right after starting. which isn't great, but still might be OK unless it causes over temp or something. usually lithium battery likes to be charged at 1C. which means say your 100amp hour battery will max charge at 100amps. it will still be happier longer with say 30amps


good thing is you most likely have a lifepo4 type of cell chemistry. they don't catch fire when something happens. short maybe throwing it in a hot enough fire, you might get a little flare up. but they just out gas till dead. I'm wouldn't run out and breath the smoke thou. all our lithium equipment has that type cells, if one has thermal run away, the official process is to drive it or push it out of the way and let to go till it stops, no need to call the fire department or anything. then request a new one under warranty be shipped in.


freezing cold Temps are bad for them. discharge is fine, in fact if they get super cold won't crank your car just like a lead acid. but just the act of trying warms the battery internally. and as it warms up it will come to life.(just don't burn your starter out holding the key to long)but you can not let them be recharged below 32deg.(lifepo4 type) it strips something inside the cell itself, and takes major life off it. but again the bms designed for cars will stop charging until cell Temps come up.


you can build some DIY stuff, or know it's limits and run your trolling motor battery but the best brand name in car batterys is anti gravity battery. it's basically what all the race car guys run these days. weight is free hp and they sell a 10lb battery that will start a big block. but probably wouldn't run your subs for 10mins haha. they sell normal sized car batteries too, but last I looked they are like 900$ and weight about 15 lbs. which sounds ridiculous but if you look at something like my c6 the oem battery is over 50lbs, is right in the front of the car so it hurts turn in and it's pushing 200$ these days. more for a opmtia, which is normally what I run. parts to compensate for that 40lb difference in lap time would be more costly than the battery.

if you run it let us know how it goes.


sodium cells will be on the market within a year or 2 and while slightly heavier for the same capacity, only a few lbs. is much happier at cold and hot Temps and is going to end up half the price. they have figured out how to make them with salt, no lithium and no expensive metals like cobalt and things. they also don't catch fire. the weight and size is what your probably won't see it in say a tesla but solar grids, industrial equipment, small under hood cranking batteries are all good places for it.

batteries are currently on the time line of about the Ford flat head engine. they work but the real stuff is coming when we hit the ls junk yard turbo build on e85 things will be wild. no clue how far out that is.. but there's no stopping it.

 

[Dantheman1540]

so the little I know about these batterys is it's all about the internal bms. c rating of the cells is what discharge load they can handle. there's more expensive high discharge cells and cheaper low c rating. usually for stuff like your tolling motor or solar back up. but really unless you're cranking on your truck for 5 mins straight, even a low c cell bank shouldn't blink at a 4 sec start up. but then you get to the bms, they range all over the place.(unregulated and made by the cheapest price China electronics always do) some cut off at 100amps, which might not start your consistently. others in "cranking" marketed battery are more like 350 to 500amps. either way they will all open the contacts before it overheats. charging can be interesting. if you use one for a trolling motor, or anything that will charge from a proper lithium charger it will be current limited as well as stop at the full voltage. if any one cell is over max voltage, it will open the internal contactor. in a cranking one for a car, if the bms is good, meaning much more expensive, it can limit the current your alt can put back into it. if it's not designed to be in a car, it will take full charge from your alt right after starting. which isn't great, but still might be OK unless it causes over temp or something. usually lithium battery likes to be charged at 1C. which means say your 100amp hour battery will max charge at 100amps. it will still be happier longer with say 30amps


good thing is you most likely have a lifepo4 type of cell chemistry. they don't catch fire when something happens. short maybe throwing it in a hot enough fire, you might get a little flare up. but they just out gas till dead. I'm wouldn't run out and breath the smoke thou. all our lithium equipment has that type cells, if one has thermal run away, the official process is to drive it or push it out of the way and let to go till it stops, no need to call the fire department or anything. then request a new one under warranty be shipped in.


freezing cold Temps are bad for them. discharge is fine, in fact if they get super cold won't crank your car just like a lead acid. but just the act of trying warms the battery internally. and as it warms up it will come to life.(just don't burn your starter out holding the key to long)but you can not let them be recharged below 32deg.(lifepo4 type) it strips something inside the cell itself, and takes major life off it. but again the bms designed for cars will stop charging until cell Temps come up.


you can build some DIY stuff, or know it's limits and run your trolling motor battery but the best brand name in car batterys is anti gravity battery. it's basically what all the race car guys run these days. weight is free hp and they sell a 10lb battery that will start a big block. but probably wouldn't run your subs for 10mins haha. they sell normal sized car batteries too, but last I looked they are like 900$ and weight about 15 lbs. which sounds ridiculous but if you look at something like my c6 the oem battery is over 50lbs, is right in the front of the car so it hurts turn in and it's pushing 200$ these days. more for a opmtia, which is normally what I run. parts to compensate for that 40lb difference in lap time would be more costly than the battery.

if you run it let us know how it goes.


sodium cells will be on the market within a year or 2 and while slightly heavier for the same capacity, only a few lbs. is much happier at cold and hot Temps and is going to end up half the price. they have figured out how to make them with salt, no lithium and no expensive metals like cobalt and things. they also don't catch fire. the weight and size is what your probably won't see it in say a tesla but solar grids, industrial equipment, small under hood cranking batteries are all good places for it.

batteries are currently on the time line of about the Ford flat head engine. they work but the real stuff is coming when we hit the ls junk yard turbo build on e85 things will be wild. no clue how far out that is.. but there's no stopping it.

That was more information than I knew I needed! Makes sense tho and have a battery that is light and can start a vehicle is cool, but blasting my 1000w sound system for three hours is also mucho importante.