RMBX
TYF Newbie
Hey Guys, Will I loose fluid out of the tcase when I remove the slip joint for lube. Front or rear? Thanks for your time!
2007 AWD Denali Slip joint service question.
- Thread starter RMBX
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Joseph Garcia
Supporting Member
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2018
- Posts
- 7,287
- Reaction score
- 9,829
If you are talking about the slip yoke, I believe that you will, as the transmission fluid seal engages the outside surface of the slip yoke.
Other folks on this Forum will chime with their perspectives.
Other folks on this Forum will chime with their perspectives.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Do you have an angled driveway? Get her nose down when you pull the rear shaft to minimize or eliminate any drips.
Let us know how the greasing goes and if you have any issues with the TC afterwards.
OP
OP
RMBX
TYF Newbie
.
Please forgive the FNG questions. What kind of issues are you referring to? With 170K unknown miles, my intention is to give her the best service I can and keep her on the road. Thanks Guys!
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Well, for years I was taught and passed along the same advice, to grease the splines on the rear driveshaft. Then I came across a post on GM-Trucks with a TSB that said not to use grease on the splines going into the transfer case for the rear driveshaft. No, now that I think of it, a fellow correct me! This caused me to double check my owner's manual then and now and it says to use grease, but only on the front driveshaft splines or the rear splines if RWD. Opened up the owner's manuals for the Escalades and Denalis and it says the same thing too.
So you can use the synthetic grease on the splines for the one up front, but the rear should use Dexron VI.
Last edited:
OP
OP
RMBX
TYF Newbie
Thanks again for the excellent Info! Everything seems to be running good. I just have some front end "clunk" type noise that I'll try to eliminate. I will change the rear diff fluid but leave the drive shaft alone. I guess my best plan would be to dump the tcase and front diff fluid before I remove the front drive shaft. Lube the slip yoke and reinstall before I fill the tcase. Sounds about right? I will also check the driver's side motor mount for the clunk.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
That's the usual culprit for the clunk. Thought it was my slip yoke too. Are you going to replace the metal straps on the front "propeller" shaft boot with tie straps? My plan is to order a new boot with metal straps and the special pliers from Knipex.
OP
OP
RMBX
TYF Newbie
I'm waiting to get it up on my buddies lift for a good look at all the ball joints, boots, u joints etc. Thanks for the heads up on the metal bands! I also have a clicking or like ratcheting sound, while making a tight turn backing up. I'll check the wheel bearings and brake rigging. Any other items I should be aware of while it's in the air?
swathdiver
Full Access Member
I forget but look for things out of place, worn and falling apart wire loom around the O2 sensors. Make sure the EVAP hoses are where they should be and haven't fallen. Check the parking brake cable on the left side of the rear axle to make sure its not hanging to low or snagged on something. Check the gaskets where the engine oil cooler lines enter the oil pan (if you have them) and the same for the transmission oil cooler lines. Rack and pinion boots, driveshaft and propeller shaft boots, etc.
If you do new brakes at some point, use the new drag reduction clips. I've only put them on the front but they do work for slightly better fuel economy and coasting.
Others will chime in.
