2007 Chevy Tahoe Evap system fix questions

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LegoSharks

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Back here yet again with questions in regard to the EVAP system this time in regards to what needs to be even done at this point as im still getting the refueling click issue despite having replaced both the purge valve solenoid in the engine bay as well as replacing the charcoal canister (which needed to be replaced anyways as it turned out). From what ive seen elsewhere pretty much the only other thing that could be causing this issue at this point is that because the charcoal canister went bad and the filter degraded the charcoal from the canister leaked out into the evap system line and that it needs to be purged to fix it. Other than that I've seen nothing else in regard to what could be causing the issue. So if there is something else causing it some insight would be greatly appreciated.
 

Arlin

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Your evap lines are likely clogged with charcoal. If you catch it early, you might be able to blow them out with an air compressor. When it happened to mine, I was too late. Charcoal went through every single evap line. There's an unserviceable vent line inside the gas tank that got clogged too. So, I had to replace the gas tank, all evap lines, fuel pump, and fuel pump relay. It was a nightmare. If the charcoal has gotten down into your gas tank then it's going into your evap lines.
 

pumpkin43

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Hi everyone, I have a few questions hopefully someone can help. Okay so I have a 2008 Chevrolet Tahoe with the 5.3 triton 2wd. Overall it has been a very great vehicle. The issues with it are the back hatch doesn't stay open. It closes back as soon as it opens.?? Changed struts and fuse. The dash stays with dinging alerts. Reset it for factory and it doesn't help. Now I have problems with pumping gas. I already had the entire evap system changed out. It still keeps throwing gas out. And I have to go super slow when pumping gas.got to stop and let it gurgling go away then pump a little more repeat. Help me please!!
 

petethepug

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Welcome with your 5.3 Vortec ;).

As stated, in the following order:

* Charcoal canister
* Evap purge valve
* EGR @ motor
* Pull, wipe out fuel tank, blow out fuel lines.

The labor to pull & clean out tank makes it silly stupid not to replace fuel pump & sender. Don’t make common mistake of using Non OEM f/p & sender. Get OEM from rock auto with lifetime guarantee.

Using an offshore plain wrap imitator will cause even more pain by causing more fuel pressure issues related to inferior quality as well as paying to do the job 2x (painful!)
 

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