2007 Tahoe 5.3l AFM DOD delete thread

[Taheezy_88]

True about the L33 cam I just read something where it offered more power than the stock LM7 cam but nothing noteworthy and/or worth the effort. At this point and the money I have spent I wish I went ahead with a more aggressive CAM and forked out the extra $$$ for a tune.

Headers even worth it?

update waiting for Head gaskets to come by mail. I figure the local auto store have them which they did but theirs didnt match ?

 

[kbuskill]

True about the L33 cam I just read something where it offered more power than the stock LM7 cam but nothing noteworthy and/or worth the effort. At this point and the money I have spent I wish I went ahead with a more aggressive CAM and forked out the extra $$$ for a tune.

Headers even worth it?

update waiting for Head gaskets to come by mail. I figure the local auto store have them which they did but theirs didnt match ?

Headers will give the best results with a tune as well.

If you do go with headers, make sure you go with the smallest primary tubes you can find, which is usually 1 5/8".

The 5.3l doesn't need big 1 3/4" or 1 7/8" primary tubes unless you are going FI.

The smaller primary tubes will help maintain the bottom end torque. Bigger tubes on a smaller displacement engine will hurt the low end power which is where you spend most of your time in a daily driver.

 

[iamdub]

True about the L33 cam I just read something where it offered more power than the stock LM7 cam but nothing noteworthy and/or worth the effort. At this point and the money I have spent I wish I went ahead with a more aggressive CAM and forked out the extra $$$ for a tune.

Headers even worth it?

update waiting for Head gaskets to come by mail. I figure the local auto store have them which they did but theirs didnt match ?

The L33 cam does offer more power over the LM7 cam. But, your engine is an LMG, which is like a Gen4 version of the L33 but with an iron block and AFM.

I'm a fan of anything more than shorties on these engines. The stock manifolds are actually pretty good. Shorties won't really provide any gains, but you'll have the extra heat and sound typical to headers. This makes them not worth it, IMO. There are always debates between mid-length and long tubes. I took the scientific approach and went with the tri-Y design from Doug Thorley.

 

[Taheezy_88]

Today I got the heads on torqued to specs, rocker arms torqued, pushrods and covers on.

Waiting for my harmonic balancer Billet install tool to come in on Tuesday and will get that on then. I have the flywheel locking tool in place ready. My ECM is on its way back. Exhaust Headers I will install back on after I get the oilpan, starter, etc.. (headers dropped a lil bit when removing components from underneath for oil pan, crossmember I think)

My first pic is of the passenger head and I lost my memory but my first question is
1) The three drill holes showing are meant to be left open?(I marked with three red lines
2) The rubber hose leads to wear in the radiator? (Marked red arrow)
3) Aluminum rail hooked up to where? (Marked red arrow)

*I took pictures before I uninstalled anything but can't see that aluminum pipe deal, and where the rubber radiator hose leads to

 

[kbuskill]

Today I got the heads on torqued to specs, rocker arms torqued, pushrods and covers on.

Waiting for my harmonic balancer Billet install tool to come in on Tuesday and will get that on then. I have the flywheel locking tool in place ready. My ECM is on its way back. Exhaust Headers I will install back on after I get the oilpan, starter, etc.. (headers dropped a lil bit when removing components from underneath for oil pan, crossmember I think)

My first pic is of the passenger head and I lost my memory but my first question is
1) The three drill holes showing are meant to be left open?(I marked with three red lines
2) The rubber hose leads to wear in the radiator? (Marked red arrow)
3) Aluminum rail hooked up to where? (Marked red arrow)

*I took pictures before I uninstalled anything but can't see that aluminum pipe deal, and where the rubber radiator hose leads to

View attachment 273870 View attachment 273871

#1. Yes those holes are left open.

#2. Hose should go to a small port on the passenger side end tank of radiator about mid way up... if my memory serves me.

#3. That is the PCV inlet, or clean side, and should have a rubber hose going to the intake tube mid way between the air box and throttle body.

 

[iamdub]

^^^ This.

 

[Rick 98Tahoe]

I’m mainly a lurker... but love reading about 5.3 AFM deletes... I’ve done 2 now, both on 08 Tahoe’s... I’ve used Brendan both times for the ECU, and can highly recommend him. Both times I used all GM parts, no shortcuts in anything and took my time. Best advice i can give if anyone really cares, is take your time, be patient, keep everything clean, and of course use all quality parts.

Side story... the 2nd AFM swap had a surprise... somehow... #3 cam bearing got knocked out upon the cam removal... fwiw... it was spun, nothing I knew at the time.... ended up pulling the motor and did all bearings and rings. Typically they tell you not to look at 5.3 cam bearings, lol but this was a case where I had to.

anyhow... best of luck to those reading this thread and contemplating doing a mechanical AFM delete. It’s a worthwhile endeavor, and there’s lots of good advice on the site here!

 

[iamdub]

Both times I used all GM parts, no shortcuts in anything and took my time. Best advice i can give if anyone really cares, is take your time, be patient, keep everything clean, and of course use all quality parts.

YES!

And try to avoid scope creep if you honestly only want/need a stock engine. I fell victim to it with my delete.

 

[Taheezy_88]

#1. Yes those holes are left open.

#2. Hose should go to a small port on the passenger side end tank of radiator about mid way up... if my memory serves me.

#3. That is the PCV inlet, or clean side, and should have a rubber hose going to the intake tube mid way between the air box and throttle body.

Thanks I realized the third one when I installed the intake tube

Oil pan cracked on me while torquing down not sure why? so I pick up my new oil pan tomorrow and I ordered new arp oil pan bolts that will be here tomorrow. Torque specs still 18lb for ARP?

should be able to start up tomorrow fingers crossed.

 

[kbuskill]

Thanks I realized the third one when I installed the intake tube

Oil pan cracked on me while torquing down not sure why? so I pick up my new oil pan tomorrow and I ordered new arp oil pan bolts that will be here tomorrow. Torque specs still 18lb for ARP?

should be able to start up tomorrow fingers crossed.

Where did it crack???

Not sure about the ARP bolts but I wouldn't think it would differ from factory specs...