2007 Yukon drivetrain replace/upgrade?

[Yukonblonde]

I bought a well used but well maintained 2007 Yukon 2 years ago after my car was temporarily seized for speeding. It had 370,000kms/230,000miles but the motor sounded good and I was stranded in a small town with my dog and needed to continue my road trip. It didn't take long for me to fall in love with this vehicle but i knew that it would need regular work done so I started putting aside $100/week towards repairs/upgrades (that's a lot of money to me). Compression was good so after a few months I upgraded rotors and pads all round, followed by new rubber. The second year I added a new radiator, a 4"lift and a new stereo. Now I'm partway into year 3 and i have a gas leak, leaky transfer case and the rear differential is sometimes grabby on full turn in. Apparently just the parts (probably rusty module?) to fix gas leak is $1600 (in Canada) and then I still have many $1000s to fix the other problems. Despite these problems I think my Yukon still has a lot of life in it and I'm ready to spend all my money keeping it on the road for at least a few more years. My questions are these...
1- Am I better off taking a chance on a parts truck at auction or wrecker and learning how to replace drivetrain with the help of a few knowledgeable friends?
2- Pay a mechanic for a rebuild with warranty?
3- Can I/ should I upgrade when I replace (transfer case/differential/transmission also?). I have base model 4*4, 5.3L and wondering if a beafier (Denali?) drivetrain would work.

I really want to learn (I'm a carpenter not a mechanic) but this is all new to me so thanks for any advice,

 

[swathdiver]

I bought a well used but well maintained 2007 Yukon 2 years ago after my car was temporarily seized for speeding. It had 370,000kms/230,000miles but the motor sounded good and I was stranded in a small town with my dog and needed to continue my road trip. It didn't take long for me to fall in love with this vehicle but i knew that it would need regular work done so I started putting aside $100/week towards repairs/upgrades (that's a lot of money to me). Compression was good so after a few months I upgraded rotors and pads all round, followed by new rubber. The second year I added a new radiator, a 4"lift and a new stereo. Now I'm partway into year 3 and i have a gas leak, leaky transfer case and the rear differential is sometimes grabby on full turn in. Apparently just the parts (probably rusty module?) to fix gas leak is $1600 (in Canada) and then I still have many $1000s to fix the other problems. Despite these problems I think my Yukon still has a lot of life in it and I'm ready to spend all my money keeping it on the road for at least a few more years. My questions are these...
1- Am I better off taking a chance on a parts truck at auction or wrecker and learning how to replace drivetrain with the help of a few knowledgeable friends?
2- Pay a mechanic for a rebuild with warranty?
3- Can I/ should I upgrade when I replace (transfer case/differential/transmission also?). I have base model 4*4, 5.3L and wondering if a beafier (Denali?) drivetrain would work.

I really want to learn (I'm a carpenter not a mechanic) but this is all new to me so thanks for any advice,

Option 1 would be great, you can do the work as time permits. Option 3 is also good but will be a little more technical and may require some programming and or custom tuning.

 

[Geotrash]

I bought a well used but well maintained 2007 Yukon 2 years ago after my car was temporarily seized for speeding. It had 370,000kms/230,000miles but the motor sounded good and I was stranded in a small town with my dog and needed to continue my road trip. It didn't take long for me to fall in love with this vehicle but i knew that it would need regular work done so I started putting aside $100/week towards repairs/upgrades (that's a lot of money to me). Compression was good so after a few months I upgraded rotors and pads all round, followed by new rubber. The second year I added a new radiator, a 4"lift and a new stereo. Now I'm partway into year 3 and i have a gas leak, leaky transfer case and the rear differential is sometimes grabby on full turn in. Apparently just the parts (probably rusty module?) to fix gas leak is $1600 (in Canada) and then I still have many $1000s to fix the other problems. Despite these problems I think my Yukon still has a lot of life in it and I'm ready to spend all my money keeping it on the road for at least a few more years. My questions are these...
1- Am I better off taking a chance on a parts truck at auction or wrecker and learning how to replace drivetrain with the help of a few knowledgeable friends?
2- Pay a mechanic for a rebuild with warranty?
3- Can I/ should I upgrade when I replace (transfer case/differential/transmission also?). I have base model 4*4, 5.3L and wondering if a beafier (Denali?) drivetrain would work.

I really want to learn (I'm a carpenter not a mechanic) but this is all new to me so thanks for any advice,

I love that story! The fuel leak is just the fuel pump. Common issue where it rusts out from salty water pooling on top of the fuel tank where the pump flange sits. A brand new OEM pump is around $250 shipped from Rock Auto. I had one installed in my '07 for about $350. I could have done the work myself but didn't have time at that point and it's a PITA because you have to drop the fuel tank.

As for the driveline leaks, 230K is nothing on these. If it were my truck, I would snag a low mileage rear axle from a junkyard, change the fluid and swap out my old one. Same for the transfer case.

There is nothing special about the Denali driveline except the transfer case and front diff being AWD units instead of selectable 4WD.

 

[Yukonblonde]

I love that story! The fuel leak is just the fuel pump. Common issue where it rusts out from salty water pooling on top of the fuel tank where the pump flange sits. A brand new OEM pump is around $250 shipped from Rock Auto. I had one installed in my '07 for about $350. I could have done the work myself but didn't have time at that point and it's a PITA because you have to drop the fuel tank.

As for the driveline leaks, 230K is nothing on these. If it were my truck, I would snag a low mileage rear axle from a junkyard, change the fluid and swap out my old one. Same for the transfer case.

There is nothing special about the Denali driveline except the transfer case and front diff being AWD units instead of selectable 4WD.

Thank you - that's all very valuable information. Much appreciated.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

The Denali rear is a 14 bolt upgrade that’s probably the same price as your 12 bolt… the Denali could have a 6.2, and the 6l80 if anything at least upgrade to the 4l80 while you’re under there…

 

[Foggy]

I'd replace / service both your differentials, the transmission and transfer case
and then see how they react.. They may just be due/overdue for service..

Fuel pump module is a no brainer..Buy the GM or Delphi part.. With your
age and mileage , you've got your money out of that pump... Many fail a lot
sooner

 

[Doubeleive]

I bought a well used but well maintained 2007 Yukon 2 years ago after my car was temporarily seized for speeding. It had 370,000kms/230,000miles but the motor sounded good and I was stranded in a small town with my dog and needed to continue my road trip. It didn't take long for me to fall in love with this vehicle but i knew that it would need regular work done so I started putting aside $100/week towards repairs/upgrades (that's a lot of money to me). Compression was good so after a few months I upgraded rotors and pads all round, followed by new rubber. The second year I added a new radiator, a 4"lift and a new stereo. Now I'm partway into year 3 and i have a gas leak, leaky transfer case and the rear differential is sometimes grabby on full turn in. Apparently just the parts (probably rusty module?) to fix gas leak is $1600 (in Canada) and then I still have many $1000s to fix the other problems. Despite these problems I think my Yukon still has a lot of life in it and I'm ready to spend all my money keeping it on the road for at least a few more years. My questions are these...
1- Am I better off taking a chance on a parts truck at auction or wrecker and learning how to replace drivetrain with the help of a few knowledgeable friends?
2- Pay a mechanic for a rebuild with warranty?
3- Can I/ should I upgrade when I replace (transfer case/differential/transmission also?). I have base model 4*4, 5.3L and wondering if a beafier (Denali?) drivetrain would work.

I really want to learn (I'm a carpenter not a mechanic) but this is all new to me so thanks for any advice,

how fast ya gotta go to get seized up yonder?

 

[wjburken]

how fast ya gotta go to get seized up yonder?

Asking for a friend or are you planning a trip up north?

 

[Yukonblonde]

how fast ya gotta go to get seized up yonder?

Haha. I was going 165kmph (100+ mph). 40km(25mph) over the limit gets you $400 ticket, $400tow and impound for a week. Also insurance dings you for the points. Then the Superintendant of motor vehicles has to okay you keeping your license but not before charging you a safety premium. I haven't slowed down any but I definitely am more careful where/when I go fast.

 

[Rocket Man]

Good thing 25mph over the limit down here doesn’t get your rig impounded or half of us would be without a ride half the time.