2008 Yukon Denali, 135k miles, part 2!!

[KATfishing]

I use that stuff every year and so far so good on the taho for the last 5 years.

Just curious, did you have any rust forming, such as at the door seams or paint starting to blister on the bottom of the outside of the doors? If so, did the FluidFilm stop/slow it down once sprayed?

 

[tgui]

1 year abouts, 5000 mile road trip from DC to northern Montana, and lots of drives to work. 15k miles of ownership has been pretty good.

 

[tgui]

I did a SLP resonator delete. I need to clean up the cuts since my hack saw had a hard time with the stock 3.5'' pipe.



Im not sold on the looks. I might remove the tip and install something more hidden. The resonator is gone, thats all that matters.

It does make the sound louder. The inside isn't louder when driving normally. Getting on it and cold starts are louder for sure.

Side:



Rear:

Ohhh and then there are these I have to put on. Long tube headers.

 

[swathdiver]

Sounds good and looks fine. Give it a few days and it'll probably grow on you.

 

[Smokymance]

What headers are those?

SHe sounds good!

 

[tgui]

What headers are those?

SHe sounds good!

Thanks!

Those headers: Speed Engineering Truck SUV 1 7/8" Longtube Headers & Y-Pipe

 

[tgui]

I'm working on the headers install. Its a pain in the ass. Not nearly as bad as building a trans ans swapping it in. Still, it sucks.

So far out
- Cover & intake
- Wheels and fender liners
- Spark plugs and wires
- O2 Sensors
- Oil dipstick tube
- Manifolds
- Ypipe

My previous NBS Yukon Ypipe came out with little problems. It sucked to remove the trans cross member but what ever. THIS ypipe was totally seized. I got 2 out of the 6 bolts out. I used heat, penetrating fluid, time and still broke sockets and other shit. I rounded one of the nuts too. FFS!!!. ARG!!!

I used to scoff at people cutting the ypipe out, now here I am! At least I dont have to drop the trans cross member.


I had a broken manifold bolt on each side close to the firewall. I am not sure what to do yet.

Drivers side. I can get a nut on and weld in place I think.


Passengers side is broken flush to the head. Any ideas y'all?

 

[swathdiver]

You'll probably need heat to break them loose and an easy out for the latter and a nut for the former. PITA.

 

[tgui]

You'll probably need heat to break them loose and an easy out for the latter and a nut for the former. PITA.

Other than disconnecting the negative battery terminal, anything else needed to weld? Where on the block do I ground the welder? I don't want to fry any electronics.


Worst case scenario I forgot I picked these up. They're passenger and driver manifold clamps for the bolts that break nearest to the firewall. Ugly, but might be useful as a last resort.

 

[tgui]

Welded a nut on the stud...


Then.... it turns out the stud was rusted part of the way through and snapped.


****.

Built a stack on the now flush on head broken stud.... and it didn't work. I'll keep at it.


More come friday. I'm glad I have the backup options posted earlier.

I SUCK at welding but am persistent.