sumo
dn ʇǝƃ ʇuɐɔ & llǝɟ ı
Swivel extensions work great. You can go through the passenger wheel well. I did mine from the top like so
2008 Yukon Denali XL: Rough Idle/Accel after changing spark plugs
- Thread starter Reid near Seattle
- Start date
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Reid near Seattle
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- May 1, 2018
- Posts
- 5
- Reaction score
- 1
Hi Swathdiver,
OK, so I’m a ignorant guy when it comes to some things you just asked me about. I’m not exactly sure what a “flat or lumpy lifter valley cover” is that you’re asking me about. I do know that we purchased our 2008 Yukon Denali XL at 60,000 miles. We did the car fax on it, and it was originally a lease, and then the leasee decided to purchase the car outright. So I’m the second owner, and have put 100,000 miles on it. I have a client that works at a dealership, and he says the engine is ‘rated’ (whatever that means) to go at least 300,000 miles if I take care of it. It’s a Gold pewter color, leather seats, GPS system, heated steering wheel, moon roof, sun roof, etc. I was told it has every option option on it, other than the snow plow option. I’m currently on a business trip, but I can look closer and find out exactly the date and where it was built when I get back to Seattle.
I failed yesterday at getting that back left spark plug out. I got the socket over it, but my 1/4th inch extender is a swivel kind, and became a hinderance, instead of a help. I have bruises (literally...) all over my stomach from engine parts sticking into me =while leaning and laying atop the engine trying to get that evil spark plug replaced. I’ll try again next week. Ha!
OK, so I’m a ignorant guy when it comes to some things you just asked me about. I’m not exactly sure what a “flat or lumpy lifter valley cover” is that you’re asking me about. I do know that we purchased our 2008 Yukon Denali XL at 60,000 miles. We did the car fax on it, and it was originally a lease, and then the leasee decided to purchase the car outright. So I’m the second owner, and have put 100,000 miles on it. I have a client that works at a dealership, and he says the engine is ‘rated’ (whatever that means) to go at least 300,000 miles if I take care of it. It’s a Gold pewter color, leather seats, GPS system, heated steering wheel, moon roof, sun roof, etc. I was told it has every option option on it, other than the snow plow option. I’m currently on a business trip, but I can look closer and find out exactly the date and where it was built when I get back to Seattle.
I failed yesterday at getting that back left spark plug out. I got the socket over it, but my 1/4th inch extender is a swivel kind, and became a hinderance, instead of a help. I have bruises (literally...) all over my stomach from engine parts sticking into me =while leaning and laying atop the engine trying to get that evil spark plug replaced. I’ll try again next week. Ha!
bottomline2000
Full Access Member
I could have sworn I read you aren't supposed to gap iridiu. Plugs. Just buy them gapped as needed. The tips are can give and don't take well to being touched.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Reid, I was wondering if your engine had AFM hardware or not, thought it was an '07 but see that it is an '08 and does not have it. The very early SUVs with the L92 had AFM hardware but was not active in the tune. It was physically removed later in the year and for 2008.
I found that no swivels work on that one and neither did going in from the wheel well with our tools. I just need to someone skinny up there with more heft and muscle than my last helper!
I found that no swivels work on that one and neither did going in from the wheel well with our tools. I just need to someone skinny up there with more heft and muscle than my last helper!
sumo
dn ʇǝƃ ʇuɐɔ & llǝɟ ı
You’re not supposed to. The electrode is a fine point and it will easily break.
For the #8 plug, SK Tools makes a 3/4" or 1' long x 3/8" drive extension that works perfect when used with a plug socket. It's just long enough that the ratchet works. It's hard to find that short extension but it works perfect. It doesn't seem like it but once you try it you'll be amazed.
All right on the money. A different take on plugs and wires. As for plugs. The tip on them is very delicate and the gapping process can flatten them. My parts guy says the OE replacement is pre gapped. (I confirmed at least the set I got was right, maybe got lucky) As for wires. I did this same job on the same vehicle and 2 of my plug wires were damaged when I unplugged them. The connectors went back on the new plug fine but I noticed the wires to the connector came off.
The wires getting damaged happens often. I had a set of new ACDelco wires that I installed and a few days later I needed to change heat range on the plugs. When I removed the wires, 2 of the ends came loose inside the boots even though I made sure to pull by the boot. You need to inspect them visually each time they get pulled off.
^^^ like he said you just need a series of adapters and you can get it out just fine with no more hassle than any other plug, in the future when you have a misfire problem a very simple and quick way to determine which plug or coil it might be is to simply unplug 1 wire at a time until you detect no difference in the idle and that will be the faulty one. however that may not have been beneficial in this case if all the plugs were gapped incorrectly. good luck
I just looked at my shorty extension and it's an SK 45159. Here's a picture of one.
