2010 ESV tranny issues

[77mercury77]

I'm having some drivability issues and need some help on where to start.
Issues happen in the morning with the engine warming up or warm but with trans still under 160F. Fluid/filter changed 10k miles ago. Recent work range AFM disabler, evap solenoid and flushed carbon pellets out of lines, and added catch can. Unrelated work: water pump, alternator, new wheels/tires, belts/tensioners, and battery. No CEL or codes.

- when cruising at 1500 rpm engine accelerated/ jerked. Felt more like stabbing at the throttle than trans kickdown. Rolling off the throttle and coasting down hill rpm jumped 500-1000-500 several times. Shortly after the truck ran fine for several days.

- another day cruising at 1000rpm I felt several kicks from the rear as if the truck was starting to accelerate. No rpm change. Truck ran fine for the rest of the day.

Don't know much about automatics so I'm looking for help on where to start.

 

[robgreg75]

Do a search for the 6L80 reset procedure, I haven't done it in years so don't remember what the sequence was but it cured mine from hard shifts.

 

[swathdiver]

I'm having some drivability issues and need some help on where to start.
Issues happen in the morning with the engine warming up or warm but with trans still under 160F. Fluid/filter changed 10k miles ago. Recent work range AFM disabler, evap solenoid and flushed carbon pellets out of lines, and added catch can. Unrelated work: water pump, alternator, new wheels/tires, belts/tensioners, and battery. No CEL or codes.

- when cruising at 1500 rpm engine accelerated/ jerked. Felt more like stabbing at the throttle than trans kickdown. Rolling off the throttle and coasting down hill rpm jumped 500-1000-500 several times. Shortly after the truck ran fine for several days.

- another day cruising at 1000rpm I felt several kicks from the rear as if the truck was starting to accelerate. No rpm change. Truck ran fine for the rest of the day.

Don't know much about automatics so I'm looking for help on where to start.

When was the last time you change the rear differential fluid? A broken tooth on the ring gear or spiders can do that too. If it's transmission related, my first thought is torque converter. If right, if you replace it now, you won't have to overhaul the transmission.

 

[77mercury77]

Thanks all. I'll look into the reset procedure. I changed out the rear diff fluid and seal about 5k ago.

How long do torque converters last on these trucks? 105k miles no towing.

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks all. I'll look into the reset procedure. I changed out the rear diff fluid and seal about 5k ago.

How long do torque converters last on these trucks? 105k miles no towing.

Most of them last the life of the vehicle or transmission. It's the following generation where they fail left and right.

The reset is called Service Learn Adapts and is done with a bi-directional scan tool.

You might think about getting the wheels off the ground and put it in drive and crawl under and have a listen around under there until you pin point the noise.

 

[petethepug]

Welcome aboard,

Those carbon pellets. If you haven’t pulled your tank and chased the pellets out after the carbon canister change, do it now. I systematically replaced the carbon fuel canister, vapor canister purge valve & vapor canister vent valve. It still stuttered like you described so I bit the bullet and paid $525 for a locally available GM OEM pump assembly. There was more pellets in the tank, the fuel sender and fuel pump screen. This finally cured the hesitation and slow fuel ups.

Yesterday I discovered VDO is (one of) the OEM suppliers of GM pumps. P# FP22052S includes the fuel sender for $229. Swap the pump and clean the rest of the pellets out if you haven’t yet before you chase potential trans issues. This pump shows on eBay but not Amazon.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/362420533790

… evap solenoid and flushed carbon pellets out of lines, …

 

[FasterBass]

Welcome aboard,

Those carbon pellets. If you haven’t pulled your tank and chased the pellets out after the carbon canister change, do it now. I systematically replaced the carbon fuel canister, vapor canister purge valve & vapor canister vent valve. It still stuttered like you described so I bit the bullet and paid $525 for a locally available GM OEM pump assembly. There was more pellets in the tank, the fuel sender and fuel pump screen. This finally cured the hesitation and slow fuel ups.

Yesterday I discovered VDO is (one of) the OEM suppliers of GM pumps. P# FP22052S includes the fuel sender for $229. Swap the pump and clean the rest of the pellets out if you haven’t yet before you chase potential trans issues. This pump shows on eBay but not Amazon.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/362420533790

View attachment 372291

How does one flush the pellets out of the line, exactly? Not that this is happening to me, but just in case...

 

[petethepug]

How does one flush the pellets out of the line, exactly? Not that this is happening to me, but just in case...

I can't speak for OP but my Indi ragged the fuel tank opening and slightly pressurized it and any other line with back pressure when the tank was out. The only barrier between the carbon pellets and the fuel system is a this piece of goldfish tank filter like sponge media. It works well until it doesn't.

 

[77mercury77]

How does one flush the pellets out of the line, exactly? Not that this is happening to me, but just in case...

Drop the tank, disconnect all the evap hoses but not the fuel line, and use compressed air to push all the pellets out. Besides dropping the tank from the ground and not a lift the only challenge is that the hoses have multiple ends so getting all the pellets out requires plugging some and going back and forth.

 

[77mercury77]

I'm starting to think it's not a tranny issue.
This morning after a few weeks of no problems the issue came up again and killed the engine.

The problem happens with 3-5 min of start up after the truck has been sitting for 12+ hours
Engine is not warmed up yet, driving at about 20-25 mph and low rpm.
Engine died (1st time this has happened) could not restart immediately but could after a few min and drove it to a spot. Didn't lose electrical power.
Waited 30 min and then decided to drive 15 miles w/o issue.
No CEL, no visual issues with newer battery, new alt, and existing cables.
Idel rpm seems low, wanders around 500 rpm at tach. Relearned throttle and now around 600 rpm.

Not sure where to start, any help?