2010 PPV with NorcalSS 2/3 drop - negative camber issue?

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CrashTestDummy

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So after doing the 2/3" drop on the Tahoe, I noticed that we had a bit of negative camber. I didn't get a good measurement of it, but probably 1/2-3/4 deg.. just enough to be noticeable. After about 50K of driving like this, we're replacing the tires. The fronts were corded on the inner tread area.

The ball joints and control arm bushings all feel good and tight. While there is a bit of movement in the tie rod ends, that won't result in negative camber. I do have brand new control arms on the shelf, and plan to get a pair of replacement tie rod ends this weekend. There's a shimmy in the wheel when braking, so I'm figuring the tie rod ends need replacing.

So question is; does the offset BelTec spindle cause you to gain negative camber somehow, or in spite of things feeling good and tight, do I really need to replace the control arms? Thanks.
 

sumo

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Did you use lowering springs? I too have some negative camber but I have original Arms. I only have replaced my ball joints. Adjustment for camber is done by adjusting the cam bolts on the upper control arms. I’d say the camber issue is due to worn parts
 

randeez

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So after doing the 2/3" drop on the Tahoe, I noticed that we had a bit of negative camber. I didn't get a good measurement of it, but probably 1/2-3/4 deg.. just enough to be noticeable. After about 50K of driving like this, we're replacing the tires. The fronts were corded on the inner tread area.

The ball joints and control arm bushings all feel good and tight. While there is a bit of movement in the tie rod ends, that won't result in negative camber. I do have brand new control arms on the shelf, and plan to get a pair of replacement tie rod ends this weekend. There's a shimmy in the wheel when braking, so I'm figuring the tie rod ends need replacing.

So question is; does the offset BelTec spindle cause you to gain negative camber somehow, or in spite of things feeling good and tight, do I really need to replace the control arms? Thanks.


did you have it aligned after installing the spindles? they widen the track width, tie rod ends need to be adjusted at the very least
 
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CrashTestDummy

CrashTestDummy

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This lowering kit uses offset spindles only. Unless the geometry on the spindle is different in other ways than just raising the spindle 2", there should be NO change in the front end alignment. Unless they also offset the spindle location outward from the location of the ball joint holes, there should also be ZERO change in the track width.

While not anticipating any change in alignment, I did check the toe-in, and it was fine, as I was expecting. The height of the drop spindle is the same with respect to the OEM spindle, so the control arms should be geometrically and spatially in the same location.
 
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CrashTestDummy

CrashTestDummy

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Did you use lowering springs? I too have some negative camber but I have original Arms. I only have replaced my ball joints. Adjustment for camber is done by adjusting the cam bolts on the upper control arms. I’d say the camber issue is due to worn parts

Ian, drop spindle only. Yeah, unfortunately, I'm starting to think that, too, in spite of how tight the BJs and bushings seem. Sigh, I did recently receive my Longacre quickset CC adapter, so I guess I'll get a chance to use it. o_O
 

sumo

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This lowering kit uses offset spindles only. Unless the geometry on the spindle is different in other ways than just raising the spindle 2", there should be NO change in the front end alignment. Unless they also offset the spindle location outward from the location of the ball joint holes, there should also be ZERO change in the track width.

While not anticipating any change in alignment, I did check the toe-in, and it was fine, as I was expecting. The height of the drop spindle is the same with respect to the OEM spindle, so the control arms should be geometrically and spatially in the same location.

Yep exact same. It keeps the same geometry on the control arms and axles if you have 4wd. Makes it a ***** though if you have to remove the upper ball joints

DEE2AB05-612B-4630-9B63-B610985ECA8E.jpeg
 

NORCAL SS

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did you align the truck after you lowered it? it changes caster also and you need to align anytime you use spindles
 

iamdub

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^^^What they said

Also, shimmy when braking is... well, brakes. Not tie rods. Get your rotors turned or replaced.
 

ezstriper

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whenever you replace ANY steering or suspension parts(short of sway bar pieces) you need to get aligned by someone that knows what they are doing...no small task any more, the settings still need to go back to stock even after lowering or lifting for handling and tire wear...did this for many years...now trying to find someone who knows anything is a joke
 

Big Mama

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Yup, got the same spindles. Old school alignment and had shudder once. New rotors for me fixed it.
 

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