2010 Tahoe LTZ Front Speaker Upgrade

[Rocket Man]

Those numbers are right according to my parallel resistors calculator that I used. Yes I cheat. But you can never assume what the amp is designed for. Most the tweets I've seen are 4 or 8 ohm btw.

 

[kbuskill]

Those numbers are right according to my parallel resistors calculator that I used. Yes I cheat. But you can never assume what the amp is designed for. Most the tweets I've seen are 4 or 8 ohm btw.

What are your thoughts on my component speakers, which are rated at 3 ohms, when separated and without the crossover?

My understanding is that the mid bass and the tweet are both 3 ohm which, when ran parallel, would actually be 1.5 ohm to the amp BUT since the crossover doesn't allow the speakers to play the same frequencies it remains a 3 ohm load...

Of course my understanding and way of thinking may be way off base.

If this is true then the capacitor on the factory Bose A-pillar tweeter may/should have a similar affect.

 

[Rocket Man]

What are your thoughts on my component speakers, which are rated at 3 ohms, when separated and without the crossover?

My understanding is that the mid bass and the tweet are both 3 ohm which, when ran parallel, would actually be 1.5 ohm to the amp BUT since the crossover doesn't allow the speakers to play the same frequencies it remains a 3 ohm load...

Of course my understanding and way of thinking may be way off base.

If this is true then the capacitor on the factory Bose A-pillar tweeter may/should have a similar affect.

It's been a long time since I was an electronic tech and honestly I do not remember what effect, if any, a capacitor has on the total resistance in a parallel circuit. I would be inclined to just wire them up and measure with a DVM if possible.

 

[lemansguy]

thanks guys for all the input and thought. im going to keep on digging and see what turns up. i may just go for it at some point and see what happens...

 

[lemansguy]

so ive been doing more digging and found this info on a diesel forum...

"basically, there are three different GMT-900 bose amplifiers.

1. "premium"/non-luxury Bose. 9 speakers (7 in trucks). Speaker in each door, subwoofer in center console, and a-pillar tweeters. SUV's get 2 additional speakers in the d-pillars.

2. Luxury Bose. 10 speakers; has an additional center-channel speaker in the upper dashboard. This amp has better sound than non-lux and more bass but does NOT have 5.1 discrete audio inputs for 'true' surround sound when watching dvd's. The center channel is "matrixed" (created out of thin air so to speak) within the amp's signal processing; it does not get an actual center-channel audio signal from the radio. Basically 2 channel sound, even when watching DVD's.

3. Luxury 5.1 Bose. 10 speakers, just like the lux, center channel speaker. This amp has the best sound, and has discrete 5.1 audio inputs. Meaning, the radio actually sends out 6 separate audio signals to the amplifier and the amp plays those discrete audio signals on their respective speaker. IE, if you are watching a DVD with this Bose amp, you get true surround sound; when the bad guy is shooting a gun behind you, you actually hear the gunshot coming from the rear speakers, etc...

In 2007-2008:
-you could only get amp (3) in the Escalade.
-you could only get amp (2) in the Denali.
-you could only get amp (1) in the silverado/sierra/tahoe/suburban

In 2009:
-you could get amp (3) in the escalade, denali, and Tahoe/Suburban (LTZ only), and only if you get the rear seat entertainment/DVD/nav unit.
-you could only get amp (2) in the denali's without rear seat entertainment/DVD
-you could only get amp (1) in the tahoe, silverado, sierra, yukon, suburban without DVD and without the LTZ package.

Even If you got a Tahoe LT (or any silverado/sierra) with DVD and everything though, you would still only get amp (1) because amp (3) is reserved for LTZ SUV's. LTZ pickup trucks do not get amp (3)

In 2010:
they basically got rid of the amp (2). Now you can only get amp (1) or amp (3).
-you can only get amp (3) in all escalades and all denali's (doesnt matter if it has rear seat DVD or not)
-you can only get amp (1) in all silverados/sierras, even if it has rear seat DVD.
-you can only get amp (1) in tahoe LT's, even if it has rear seat DVD.
-in order to get amp (3) in a tahoe or suburban, you must have LTZ and rear seat DVD"

So according to this guy i have the LUX amp, cuz i have a 2010, LTZ with rear dvd and center speaker.... so i guess i need to go back and reread posts that discuss the LUX amp outputs and power specs

 

[lemansguy]

It's been a long time since I was an electronic tech and honestly I do not remember what effect, if any, a capacitor has on the total resistance in a parallel circuit. I would be inclined to just wire them up and measure with a DVM if possible.

here is a video i found explaining the above.

if the tahoe is using a capacitor as a crossover then that should net the same results from what i understand. Bottom line the tweeter isnt being seen by the amp because of the lack of power the tweeter requires to run even at full capacity. So whatever your woofer is rated at will be what your amp sees.

 

[Rocket Man]

here is a video i found explaining the above.

if the tahoe is using a capacitor as a crossover then that should net the same results from what i understand. Bottom line the tweeter isnt being seen by the amp because of the lack of power the tweeter requires to run even at full capacity. So whatever your woofer is rated at will be what your amp sees.

Ah yes and now I remember that speakers act completely differently than a resistor in circuits and are rated in terms like "nominal impedance" and also why I'm no longer an electronic tech- just thinking about that shit drives me crazy. And these are the simplest circuits there are- you should do the math on complex circuits with many more types of components wired in all types of configurations. I used to get headaches trying to troubleshoot circuits using formulas and such and found it easier and more effective to "troubleshoot light" as I used to call it. It resulted in me replacing more components than needed but I could get the stuff fixed faster than other guys and the components were cheap, it's the labor that cost the money. Anyway enough about my past, good video. Now you just need to know if there's a capacitor on the tweeter which I would assume there is. The guy only shows the charts though and doesn't discuss what a DVM will see so there's also that to consider, although I believe you'll see the same as what he showed until you push on a cone which makes the impedance change. The JBL's I installed showed 2 ohms with the tweeters installed on them, wired parallel to the mids with capacitors for crossovers. It's easier if a person is designing a circuit from scratch like he was, but what if you're adding to an existing circuit like in the vehicle where there's already a circuit designed? If you have the schematic it would help of course. This is also why I tried to keep each component of the circuit the same as what was designed originally.

 

[lemansguy]

Digging this up from the dead a bit for an update. Finally decided on a speaker and purchased these today.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANI3LAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

great reviews, decent price and 3 ohm load. not sure when i will get around to installing them yet because i want to sound deaden the doors at the same time. ill try and get some pics when i finally do though.

 

[Rocket Man]

Digging this up from the dead a bit for an update. Finally decided on a speaker and purchased these today.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANI3LAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

great reviews, decent price and 3 ohm load. not sure when i will get around to installing them yet because i want to sound deaden the doors at the same time. ill try and get some pics when i finally do though.

I have the JBL 6 1/2” 3-ways in all 4 doors and they sound great.