2011 Chevy Tahoe 2011 5.3 (6L80 2WD P2723/P0700)

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JayDaGreatt

JayDaGreatt

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Double check fluid level.

Do you still have your old TEHCM or record of the part number? If so, does it match the "242..." part number on your new one?

Off the top of my head, it seems the vehicle/exm doesnt like the new TEHCM.

Have you contacted the reman company?
It starts with the "242" but its a diff number called Street Smart Transmissions and they said it would work just fine since it was programmed to my VIN number. Fluid level is good within spec.
 
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JayDaGreatt

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It starts with the "242" but its a diff number called Street Smart Transmissions and they said it would work just fine since it was programmed to my VIN number. Fluid level is good within spec.
Yea im also looking into HP Tuners as i have not done anything tuning-wise. From what my tuner buddies tell me, removing the tcc lock up in gears 1-4 is something they do frequently on these transmissions to reduce the workload on the converter clutch during in-city/town driving thus reducing heat build up.

You can "flip the pill" to allow for continuous fluid flow. Remove the thermal bypass housing, remove the snap ring on top and dump the contents out. Flip the little "pill" inside, reassemble then reinstall. There's o-rings on the housing in the cooler line ports so be careful not to break them or simply replace them if so. Search youtube, there's a few good videos covering the procedure.
Yes i deff read about this procedure comes in real handy, HP Tuners is a life saver
 

NickTransmissions

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It starts with the "242" but its a diff number called Street Smart Transmissions and they said it would work just fine since it was programmed to my VIN number. Fluid level is good within spec.
All things equal I suspect that's the problem (or simply not reprogrammed correctly). Either that or it's defective. Call SST back and see what they say. Perhaps they will have
some troube shooting for you to do or send out a replacement unit.

ETA: Here's what @swathdiver was referring to: AC Delco Tech Delivery System. You can pay for programming subs based on Vin to access their mainframe and run programs, etc on your vehicle.
 
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JayDaGreatt

JayDaGreatt

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All things equal I suspect that's the problem (or simply not reprogrammed correctly). Either that or it's defective. Call SST back and see what they say. Perhaps they will have
some troube shooting for you to do or send out a replacement unit.

ETA: Here's what @swathdiver was referring to: AC Delco Tech Delivery System. You can pay for programming subs based on Vin to access their mainframe and run programs, etc on your vehicle.
Wow if i would have known about this info lol thanks so much i paid 130$ for them to supposedly program
 

NickTransmissions

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Not sure about how that was done, the company did ask me for the VIN number. Reverse and drive are just fine, it just keeps going into neutral like if it was a manual transmission waiting to engage.
So when you put it in drive, it moves forward until about 10 mph then ''neutralizes"?

What about when you put it in manual low (i.e Manual mode 1 or 2) - does it move forward then neutralize at the same speeds?

Does it stay in reverse or does it fall out of reverse as well?

Noticed in your OP, you had described similar symptoms and dark fluid with the original TEHCM as well...

Do you still have your original TEHCM?
 
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JayDaGreatt

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So when you put it in drive, it moves forward until about 10 mph then ''neutralizes"?

What about when you put it in manual low (i.e Manual mode 1 or 2) - does it move forward then neutralize at the same speeds?

Does it stay in reverse or does it fall out of reverse as well?

Noticed in your OP, you had described similar symptoms and dark fluid with the original TEHCM as well...

Do you still have your original TEHCM?
Yeah it goes reverse and forward without hesitation, its just when it goes past 10mph it neutralizes picks up a gear at around 25mph. I havent tried manual mode yet but i am tomorrow morning i will prob try the relearn adapt once again because the person who came prob didnt do it correctly. I read the parking brake and actual brake both have to be pressed while the scan tool goes through the clutch packs & procedure. None of that actually happened today from all the videos that i have seen. We did use an Autel scanner but once we took it for a spin it ran until it neutralized itself.
 
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JayDaGreatt

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So when you put it in drive, it moves forward until about 10 mph then ''neutralizes"?

What about when you put it in manual low (i.e Manual mode 1 or 2) - does it move forward then neutralize at the same speeds?

Does it stay in reverse or does it fall out of reverse as well?

Noticed in your OP, you had described similar symptoms and dark fluid with the original TEHCM as well...

Do you still have your original TEHCM?
I actually sent it in to SST as they require the core to activate the 3 yr warranty.
 

swathdiver

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Not sure about how that was done, the company did ask me for the VIN number. Reverse and drive are just fine, it just keeps going into neutral like if it was a manual transmission waiting to engage.
Is this a Dorman TECHM? A few years ago on here, every one of them was a dud. Too bad you turned yours in so early. Never do that!
 

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