2011 SSV, 6J4 Horn Connector Help Needed

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Maxxarcade

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I have a 2011 SSV, and am trying to figure out the 6J4 connector for the horn.

I see that there are two thin, tan wires coming from a cloth-wrapped loom, one of which still has the 6J4 tag on it. Each thin tan wire is spliced to a thicker tan wire that runs under the floor mat and down under the center console somewhere.

The thin wire with the 6J4 tag must come from the steering column, because it connects to ground when I press the horn button. The other thin wire (with no tag) has 12 volts on it. Is it safe to assume that the 12 volts is probably being read through the horn relay coil? It seems to be live whether the key is on or off.

I'm wondering if the two thin wires are the ones that need to be connected together, and that the thicker ones might have been added by the upfitters and aren't actually connected anymore? It just gets confusing because there is also a 3rd thicker tan wire running under the floor mat, which is spliced to a wire on the 6J3 bundle. The wiring diagram for the horn shows a wire coming from the BCM, but I'm not sure if that's one of the ones that goes under the mat, or if it's further back under the dash and hasn't been affected by the splices.
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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I don't know much about those connectors you're referring to, but yes the thin tan/brown wires are for the horn.
Mine had a tiny little black connector that they disconnected so I was able just to plug it back in and call it a day.

But i if yours has wires spliced off of it somewhere, I wouldn't give it that 12 volt power until a new where they terminated. Just to make sure you don't pop a fuse, burn a wire, start a fire.
I ripped a good 60 lb of wires and stuff out of mine when I first got it.
 
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Maxxarcade

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I don't know much about those connectors you're referring to, but yes the thin tan/brown wires are for the horn.
Mine had a tiny little black connector that they disconnected so I was able just to plug it back in and call it a day.

But i if yours has wires spliced off of it somewhere, I wouldn't give it that 12 volt power until a new where they terminated. Just to make sure you don't pop a fuse, burn a wire, start a fire.
I ripped a good 60 lb of wires and stuff out of mine when I first got it.
My assumptions were correct. I took the thin wire that had 12 volts on it and grounded it (through a resistor for safe current-limiting) and the horn honked. So then I connected both thin wires together and the horn now works.

I also noticed that it will work whether the key is on or off, and that the key fob does not honk it. I'm assuming that it's probably disabled in the programming though, because the lights don't flash either.

And for some odd reason, the horn button (when pressed) will read 2-4 ohms to ground with the key off, but if the key is on, it will read about 16 ohms to ground.

But anyhow, I think those tan wires running under the floor mat were not factory, and they probably ran to equipment that was in a previous center console. I didn't want to remove the seats and console to see where they went, so I just taped them off. The truck is now 100% functional.

Really the worst part about fixing stuff like this, is physically getting to everything. And why do people always have to cut wires so short when they splice stuff?
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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I also noticed that it will work whether the key is on or off, and that the key fob does not honk it. I'm assuming that it's probably disabled in the programming though, because the lights don't flash either.
That should be RPO code

9G8 - SEO - HEADLAMPS,DAYTIME RUNNING LAMPS AND AUTOMATIC HEADLAMP CONTROL DELETE
 

bigbird90650

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Hi. I'm new to this PPV/SSV 2011 tahoe thing. Just got it and want the horn to work. Where exactly are these horn wires/harness? I'm clueless. thanks for the help
 

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