2011 Yukon Mods

[mikey42_69]

I like to have it all in one spot.
I love HID lights but I hate it when people just skip the fact that they don’t have the correct housing to have an HID on their car or truck. That’s just plain laziness. Not to mention selfishness to other drivers. Don’t you just hate it when you have someone blinding you because they bought a set of HIDs and put it into their vehicle that is not equipped for HIDs. So I got a set off projector headlights off of eBay with a set of HID for $180 from dotcom racing. I love them. I changed the stock H13 bulb to two H1 bulbs. It has daytime LEDs that look blue to purplish. They look great. The housing is a little reflective looking more than the stock headlights. I didn’t really see that the old stock headlights are not 100% reflective chrome. They have a lot of area that is sort of matt finish. The ballast is cheap Chinese and I am using them for the fog lights because I already have good ballasts for the Headlights. The headlights came with full detailed instructions to remove the headlights. I took it one step further and also just removed the whole front bumper. It made the install of the ballasts easer. It took more time to do it right but it will be better in the long run to have all the cables tie wrapped and nothing hanging. So here are the pictures of the install.

---------- Post added at 09:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:20 AM ----------




















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[mikey42_69]

So now for the dual Battery install. Because I had everything already off the truck I wanted to install my yellow top for my later install of my amps and subs. No time soon. I saw that most people were running the positive lead of the second battery all the way to the firewall and then to the first battery. That’s cool and all but there is already a 4 gauge run to the alternator and it will be the shortest distance for the current to travel from the alternator to both batteries to charge. So I ran my positive to the alternator and Tie Wrapped it to the ECM cables to go the computer. I also like to always have a fuse distribution center to make everything clean. I don’t like personally all the accessories bulked up next to the leads with the inline fuse containers. So I got a fuse distribution type deal at the local marine shop. I love it. On another note I will never get those already wired HID relay kits again. That is why I have dual fuses for the HID relay. I plan to remove them I just ran out of time. I got the polished optima tray from eBay for $60 and I love it. I just used the factory lip on the second battery tray and tucked the polished one under it. Then I predrilled two holes and screwed the bottom of the tray down after I added the brackets to the side. It really holds the optima great and looks so good doing it. I didn’t like the gray on the optima so I used a high temp spray paint and painted the body of the optima black. And it looks great. Best looking battery tray ever. I highly recommend it. For the power and the ground I went to the local auto parts store and bought some premade 4 gauge batter terminal cables. Very cheap. Bo the cables cost $20 and already had a terminal so that I can use the front terminals for the factory hookup and use the top terminals for the Audio system. It even came with the screws. For the ground I just used the fender wells hold down to the radiator support and grinded down the paint and it works great.















---------- Post added at 09:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:23 AM ----------

Now I need to find a way to mount my amp. I only want a normal system. So far I don't think I'm going to dynomat the truck but who knows. Things are always changing.

 

[robdeniro0]

You sir are very mechanically inclined! Nice work.

 

[Rangel]

What you gonna do with your stock housings?

 

[Donnie Yukonie]

looks good keep up the good work

 

[1Agerry]

wow man, your truck is awesome.good job!