2011 Yukon XL SLT baterry dies

[headnorth]

While listening to radio during tailgates, etc. with all power off (domes, headlights, etc.) my battery dies after 10-20 mins and usually have to jump it. Dealer connected it to some tester for two hours, checked alternator, etc. and found nothing wrong. I've never had this problem with any other vehicle. Where can I find TSB's? Is anybody else having anything similar to this occur? Thanks!

 

[Peaches]

Have them check your cables leading from the fuse box. You may have a loose connection somewhere, I just spent 2 weeks with mine in the shop and it died really freakin' fast, just like that. It got much more serious than just dying though.

Just a thought and something to look into.

 

[HOE-N-IT]

Welcome to the club. This is a common complaint with the NNBS trucks. I have gotten the "battery low, start engine" message many times on my 2011 Tahoe when turning on the key after having the doors open just cleaning the interior etc. I also don't drive my truck every day and it will sit for a week or two and it will barely start. A couple of weeks ago I was packing for a trip with the doors open and closed sevaral times and a number of minutes each time. It had also sat for a week. When I got ready to go it wouldn't start.

Just yesterday I installed the dual battery setup just like in the police Tahoe and 2 new higher capacity AGM batteries. I now have about 2 1/2 times the battery power I did before. I didn't do the isolator setup as I didn't feel I needed it but if you do a lot of tailgating or use electric coolers etc you may want a dual setup with an isolator.

I found the exact GM battery cables that come on the police tahoe on Amazon.com for a little over $100 which is about half the price from a dealer.

 

[NASTY GM]

The factory battery is a joke for a SUV. Purchase a good battery and be done with it.

 

[AmazinglySmooth]

I had my negative battery cable replaced because of excessive voltage drop during cranking. The dealer can test for it.

 

[domin8]

Welcome to the club. This is a common complaint with the NNBS trucks. I have gotten the "battery low, start engine" message many times on my 2011 Tahoe when turning on the key after having the doors open just cleaning the interior etc. I also don't drive my truck every day and it will sit for a week or two and it will barely start. A couple of weeks ago I was packing for a trip with the doors open and closed sevaral times and a number of minutes each time. It had also sat for a week. When I got ready to go it wouldn't start.

Just yesterday I installed the dual battery setup just like in the police Tahoe and 2 new higher capacity AGM batteries. I now have about 2 1/2 times the battery power I did before. I didn't do the isolator setup as I didn't feel I needed it but if you do a lot of tailgating or use electric coolers etc you may want a dual setup with an isolator.

I found the exact GM battery cables that come on the police tahoe on Amazon.com for a little over $100 which is about half the price from a dealer.

Would you mind sharing the info?

 

[HOE-N-IT]

Would you mind sharing the info?

GM part #25825642 positive battery cable. http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-25825...=UTF8&qid=1345638137&sr=8-1&keywords=25825642

GM part #25876896 negative battery cable. http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-25876...=UTF8&qid=1345638137&sr=8-2&keywords=25825642

GM part #14005061 battery hold down. local GM dealer about $5

GM part #11509853 hold down bolt. local GM dealer about $1

10 x 1.5 x 25 mm bolt and washer - Lowes

This is all that is needed plus batteries. The positive battery cable routes under the motor at the front of the oil pan near some other cables and includes clips to attach it to a plastic piece that already has holes in it for the cable clips. It then attaches to the starter on the same stud as the main battery. I attached the negative cable to the motor at a threaded hole in the head near the alternator with the bolt from Lowes.
Getting a wrench on the lug nut at the starter is the only difficult part. It is REALLY hard to see and get to due to the frame etc. You will need ramps or access to a lift.

 

[02Lightning]

I didn't do the isolator setup as I didn't feel I needed it but if you do a lot of tailgating or use electric coolers etc you may want a dual setup with an isolator.

What is the isolator setup and what is the purpose?
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42779

 

[AZSCTACO]

I went through 3 factory batteries the first year I had my Tahoe. Went with a Duralast battery after that and lasted 3 years in the Arizona heat. The factory batteries are flawed...

 

[HOE-N-IT]

What is the isolator setup and what is the purpose?
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42779

A battery isolator is used with 2 (or more) batteries in parallel and the isolator is wired between the positive connections. It is used so that both batteries can be charged by the alternator but otherwise normally keeps the batteries isolated so that the one that is being used will not drain the other.

It is most typically used where the second or auxillary battery is a deep cycle type used to power accesseries such as inverters, winches, snow plows, campers etc and not drain the starting battery. It can also be confugured to be a hot standby to jump start the starting battery if the starting battery is at risk of occasionally being run down. If the starting battery is run down often this will GREATLY reduce the life of a starting battery.

Because there are so many types, brands, applications and configurations of battery isolators I would suggest a google search to learn more if you are interested in an isolator.

I wanted just 2 batteries wired in parallel since I don't use auxillary equipment and wanted to have more battery power on hand to make it less likely that I will run down 2 batteries with parasitic drain. With 2 batteries, each will not normally be discharged as deeply so they will last longer.