2012 Tahoe LTZ w/221k....should I even consider?

[Mark Shipley]

Did I miss something. So are the shocks original or have somebody put Replacements on?
If it's got the original are GM OEM shocks on it I I would suspect that they're probably gone wore out. You can look at the bladder on top of the shock and tell if they're deflated and I have a 2011 LTZ and I've had to replace the compressor pump on it. I also have a 2004 Yukon Denali and had 4 place the rear shocks on it twice indeed and the rear air compressor. Oh my 2011 about a year ago with a hundred twelve thousand miles on it Arbor Place the front shocks with Arnotte bypassing the sensor since I'm like the old 2004 model, what 2011 has the shock built into the center of the spring and strut as one assembly and it's a pain in the butt to rebuild it. Did not notice a difference on the front shocks they run great. I replace the back shocks witharnotte reman oem and also replace the compressor and got that from are not as well. They used to sell Direct but now you have to go through an auto parts retailer. Amazon have the best prices for most of the Arnotte replacements. Go to their site and check it out look up the parts there. But check out Amazon and other vendors online.

 

[Mark Shipley]

arnotteindustries.com

 

[tmt502]

Thanks for the input. I have purchased the Arnott replacement compressor and rear shocks from amazon after checking the suspension system fuses. Number 58 (I think, the 40 amp fuse) was visibly blown. I replaced it Sunday and the compressor didn’t do anything. Also, the shocks are definitely not holding air. I decided to just go ahead and do a full replacement for the rear system. We’ll see once I receive the parts and get them installed.

I’ve purchased a door trim panel for the drivers side front door from GM Parts Direct, which I’ve come to learn is the Flow dealership in Winston-Salem, NC. They helped me confirm the correct part number based on my VIN (part no 84127282 for the two tone cashmere color with heated/cooled and power lumbar seats in case anyone needs that info in the future). Hoping I’ll receive that soon. Their facility is only a couple of hours from where I live.

The Tahoe was bought locally and lived its life in this area, upstate SC, so no worries about salt corrosion.

Another part I need help tracking down is the dust cap/inspection plug on the bottom of the torque converter housing. I found the smaller one online, but even after looking at parts diagrams, I can’t find the part number for the large one.

I have noticed a slight oil drip after putting a few miles on it since purchase. I plan to do an oil change this weekend to see if I can track it down. It’s origin does not seem to be the torque converter housing. The oil filter is coated so I’m hoping it’s just a bad seal on the filter. Looks like some off-brand filter. I’ve even experienced bad seals on oem parts for other vehicles in the past. One of the oem filters I used on my 2016 Subaru sti inexplicably gave out after a couple thousand miles and leaked almost 2 qts of oil in a day. Switched to purolator filters and haven’t had an issue since then. I’ll see what I can track down when I have time to investigate. I’ve been keeping an eye on the oil level to make sure it’s not dropping...doesn’t seem to be any noticeable change. Also I’m not noticing any burning oil smell, so there’s not enough of a drip to be hitting the exhaust pipe while driving, I guess.

I haven’t owned a Chevy truck in about 10 years so I’ve been doing as much reading and research as I can on this truck. Lots of good info out there, but also some gaps. I really appreciate everyone’s input.!

 

[avalonandl]

The rear main seals tend to leak after time on the LS engines. If its a small drip it honestly isn't worth fixing it.

Go to the intterior section here and look up replacing the door panel and door pull.

 

[Meccanoble]

11k is not crazy. Thats about average but its not a great deal to me considering what you may have to replace soon unless you know history. The potential good news about that mileage is a lot of things probably failed that may have already been replaced such as the expensive suspension, motor mounts, fuel pump, transmission.

 

[swathdiver]

Ok, so an update. I went and drove it, liked it and bought it today! Didn’t pay near asking price btw.

Now I’ve got some things to fix on it. The first major thing is the drivers side door panel. The door pull/arm rest is completely broken. Where can I get a new one?? I’ve been searching parts sites, but not sure which site to trust. None show real pictures and the descriptions are vague at best. I think my colors are dark cashmere and light cashmere. It’s an LTZ and has power/heated/cooled seats.

The second thing is an intermittent message for service suspension system. It doesn’t always appear on startup, but I’m sure something needs to be fixed. I know you can have the codes read but any ideas of how to troubleshoot myself would be awesome. Many part stores aren’t offering their code read service due to covid precautions right now.

Overall it really does feel like a solid truck. Transmission feels solid. This is definitely a keeper for me and I’m looking forward to fixing her up!

Congrats! Did you post up any photos for us to gawk at? We love pictures here! Before you spend another dime, buy a Tech-2 with 33.004 software. You cannot properly diagnose and work on these things without one.

 

[avalonandl]

11k is not crazy. Thats about average but its not a great deal to me considering what you may have to replace soon unless you know history. The potential good news about that mileage is a lot of things probably failed that may have already been replaced such as the expensive suspension, motor mounts, fuel pump, transmission.

If you read post 15 he paid much less than the 11k.

I found a 2011 Yukon Hybrid thats got 149 kmiles ... runs rough, engine knock, stained carpet.... otherwise a creampuff....LOL
https://bid.repocast.com/lots/22575...9MCZwYWdlPTEmcHJldltwYWdlXT1sJnByZXZbd2lkXT0y

 

[Plimbob]

Couple things I forgot in previous post:
1. oil pressure sending unit went bad at 200k. PIA if you have to change.
2. Replaced a-frames at 175k

 

[tmt502]

Congrats! Did you post up any photos for us to gawk at? We love pictures here! Before you spend another dime, buy a Tech-2 with 33.004 software. You cannot properly diagnose and work on these things without one.

I've not posted pictures yet, but I will. Really wanting to get it cleaned up before posting anything though.

Yeah, tell me more about the Tech-2. I bought a cheapy OBDII reader from Amazon, and it tells me virtually nothing. Can you run diagnostics with the Tech-2?

 

[swathdiver]

I've not posted pictures yet, but I will. Really wanting to get it cleaned up before posting anything though.

Yeah, tell me more about the Tech-2. I bought a cheapy OBDII reader from Amazon, and it tells me virtually nothing. Can you run diagnostics with the Tech-2?

Just about anything with a wire attached to it can be seen and tested by the Tech-2. It's the dealer level scan tool used to diagnose problems with our trucks. You can also graph certain functions, run tests and turn lights on and off, move the seats and so on.

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/the-case-for-the-tech-2.108746/