2012 Yukon XL SLT1500 Rotors & Brakes

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solosys

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My '12 Yukon XL has reached about 160K (acquired with 140k) and it's time to change the front brakes. I've decided to purchase the GM OE front rotors and pads.

I was able to find the rotors: 22950036, and Front brakes kit: 19369415, at GMPartsGiant, and looking to do the work myself. Other than greasing components properly, should I resurface the hub as well? I haven't taken a look at it so I'm not sure if that's required yet. Is there anything else that is recommended to do or precautions I should take?
 

Geotrash

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My '12 Yukon XL has reached about 160K (acquired with 140k) and it's time to change the front brakes. I've decided to purchase the GM OE front rotors and pads.

I was able to find the rotors: 22950036, and Front brakes kit: 19369415, at GMPartsGiant, and looking to do the work myself. Other than greasing components properly, should I resurface the hub as well? I haven't taken a look at it so I'm not sure if that's required yet. Is there anything else that is recommended to do or precautions I should take?
+1^^^ to the post above mine. You're right at the point that the front wheel bearings start to go south. Might as well replace those while you're in there. Timken or OEM only.

Take a close look at the ball joints and tie rod ends as well. Make sure they're tight and that their grease boots are still intact. Now would be a good time to also replace the front sway bar bushings and links. Easy job, and yours are probably about done.
 

swathdiver

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My '12 Yukon XL has reached about 160K (acquired with 140k) and it's time to change the front brakes. I've decided to purchase the GM OE front rotors and pads.

I was able to find the rotors: 22950036, and Front brakes kit: 19369415, at GMPartsGiant, and looking to do the work myself. Other than greasing components properly, should I resurface the hub as well? I haven't taken a look at it so I'm not sure if that's required yet. Is there anything else that is recommended to do or precautions I should take?

Consider rebuilding your calipers or replacing them with new ones. I did just the fronts and a year later a piston hung up on one side and had to it all over again.

Also consider putting in new bushings in the caliper bracket, either 18K1169 or 18K1863 or 25910433, you decide.

Drag reduction clips are good for about a quarter mpg. I have the old uncoated ones and they are probably worn out now, new ones should last longer.

It's about time for control arms, inner and outer tie rods and well, everything in each wheel well! No, the hubs don't require resurfacing, just use a wire brush to clean them and don't forget that little screw that locks the disc to the hub, it is supposed to be there and not optional. Pain to get out, had to use an impact screwdriver.

Bolt, Brake Rotor 11609271 M8 x 1.25 x 20 Hillman 44538 Crown Bolt 15888 Everbilt 844118

If yours is AWD/4x4 the spindle nut is one time use only. Takes a 35mm socket. Dorman replacement is 36mm. 177 foot pounds of torque.
 
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solosys

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Consider rebuilding your calipers or replacing them with new ones. I did just the fronts and a year later a piston hung up on one side and had to it all over again.

Also consider putting in new bushings in the caliper bracket, either 18K1169 or 18K1863 or 25910433, you decide.

Drag reduction clips are good for about a quarter mpg. I have the old uncoated ones and they are probably worn out now, new ones should last longer.

It's about time for control arms, inner and outer tie rods and well, everything in each wheel well! No, the hubs don't require resurfacing, just use a wire brush to clean them and don't forget that little screw that locks the disc to the hub, it is supposed to be there and not optional. Pain to get out, had to use an impact screwdriver.

Bolt, Brake Rotor 11609271 M8 x 1.25 x 20 Hillman 44538 Crown Bolt 15888 Everbilt 844118

If yours is AWD/4x4 the spindle nut is one time use only. Takes a 35mm socket. Dorman replacement is 36mm. 177 foot pounds of torque.
Yes mine is 4WD. Thanks for the heads up on th spindle but.

By the way I went with GM OE rotors and the following brake pads: Disc Brake Pad Set-Performance Ultra Premium Ceramic Pads Front Akebono ASP1363.

I'm still trying to locate OEM hubs.
 

swathdiver

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Yes mine is 4WD. Thanks for the heads up on th spindle but.

By the way I went with GM OE rotors and the following brake pads: Disc Brake Pad Set-Performance Ultra Premium Ceramic Pads Front Akebono ASP1363.

I'm still trying to locate OEM hubs.
Think nothing of using the Timken SP500301 hubs.
 
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solosys

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Actually went with the Bosch QuietCast rotors with the Akebono pads. Discovered yesterday that one of my sway bar links is broken. Replacing with Energy Suspension is the general consensus or OEM?

As with other bushings, etc mentioned above, yes I will eventually get to them.
 

repairman54

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I have had Timkens and Moogs not last 25k miles in Malibu's and other cars and my Tahoe.
Hubs are hit and miss quality today, mostly made of Chinesium. OEM hubs didn't make it to 75k in my truck.
Currently testing a MEVO HD super duper one now in the RF. Has lasted 25k so far.
 

Dlayne

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Agreed with the bearing service / replacement. Right after I did my brakes, bearings went at 125k….
 

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