2013 Avalanche...LMG 5.3 to L96 6.0 (Pics)

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01FormulaTA

01FormulaTA

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I read through this entire thread for probably the 3rd time since you started this project and I love it. One question I have and I don't recall reading about it, but why did you go from the ARH headers to the Kooks. I know you are now going back to stock manifolds, but were one brand of long tubes better than the other?
I am on the fence between ARH and Kooks for my L9H Tahoe and am hoping for some info that may want one brand more than the other.

Mike, I appreciate it man. Honestly I really didn't have a good reason to get the kooks headers other than I just wanted to try them out. Both companies make top notch products and I never experienced a problem with either set of headers. Both had excellent fit, finish, and welds. I would advise you to go with whatever you can get the best deal on. You cant go wrong with ARH or Kooks.

Why not T56 swap the Avalanche? :D

Hell yeah! X2.

Haha that would be pretty wild but I have seen some T56 swapped TBSS's so ya never know!
 

yukon702

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Mike, I appreciate it man. Honestly I really didn't have a good reason to get the kooks headers other than I just wanted to try them out. Both companies make top notch products and I never experienced a problem with either set of headers. Both had excellent fit, finish, and welds. I would advise you to go with whatever you can get the best deal on. You cant go wrong with ARH or Kooks.





Haha that would be pretty wild but I have seen some T56 swapped TBSS's so ya never know!

I got a set of Kooks I just purchased and decided to wrap them to hopefully tone them down. It's a mother trying to wrap them because the pipes are so tight. So that in itself is a project that I still haven't finished cause of work. Do you think it would make a difference in wrapping them to try and deaden the sound? Or has anyone else done this? Any extra info would be great
 
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I got a set of Kooks I just purchased and decided to wrap them to hopefully tone them down. It's a mother trying to wrap them because the pipes are so tight. So that in itself is a project that I still haven't finished cause of work. Do you think it would make a difference in wrapping them to try and deaden the sound? Or has anyone else done this? Any extra info would be great


I haven’t had any experience with wrapping headers, it may help, I wouldn’t think it would make a big difference though, I do know it helps a lot with controlling under hood temperature...make sure whatever exhaust wrap you go with doesn’t absorb moisture
 
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Is there such a thing???

Not being a smart ass... just genuinely curious.

What is the best way to avoid moisture?

I had heard through here say that DEI's newer product was moisture resistant but I have no experience with it....he might be ok out in Vegas anyways, its a desert climate so it should be pretty dry year round
 

kbuskill

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I had heard through here say that DEI's newer product was moisture resistant but I have no experience with it....he might be ok out in Vegas anyways, its a desert climate so it should be pretty dry year round

I live in the land of 100% humidity... FL.

I'd think if any moisture gets trapped within the header wrap it would burn off as soon as you'd start it and let it run.

Yeah I would think that too but from what I have read the moister/water gets trapped between the header and the wrap and when the headers get hot it "superheats" it and causes the metal to fatigue and get brittle and break.

I don't know... I ran the titanium lava wrap on my choppers pipes and never really had a problem even after washing the bike and the pipes getting soaked.

BUT...

All the header manufacturers say that using header wrap voids the warranty so there must be some ill effects from it.

I have been eyeing the ceramic coated stainless JBA shorties and was thinking about wrapping them as well to keep the underhood temps even lower and to speed up the velocity of the exhaust gases by keeping the temperature up inside the pipes. I am hesitant to do anything that would cause problems down the road though.

Maybe if you really coated the wrap with the silicone spray they might be alright.

Any thought or suggestions/insight is much appreciated.
 
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yukon702

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Is there such a thing???

Not being a smart ass... just genuinely curious.

What is the best way to avoid moisture?
Yes there is such a thing if you buy the cheaper fiberglass kind of wrap. You either spray them with high temp silicone spray paint or buy basalt wrap to stop the moisture thing.

Supposedly after time the moisture degrades the wrap especially when its wet and it picks up dirt and grime. I can't believe it but I just need it to tone down the sound.
 
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little update...so basically I was bored lol and I decided to pull the 6.2 LS3 and sell it (Will be for Sale shortly) and I rebuilt the L96 6.0 I had originally swapped....


the LS3 had CRAZY top end and pulled like a freight train but I wanted more low end grunt for the 6.0 and I wanted to up the compression so I took it apart down to the block and went to the trusty dingle ball hone and got rid of the dished pistons for some new GM Flat Top LS2 pistons...The main bearings and the cam bearings looked good to me so I reused them, just new pistons and rings only, no rebalance required...I also sold the 823 Heads (68cc) and went with a set of 243 Heads (64.5cc) for the smaller chambers so basically built an Iron Block LS2, I should be at right around 11:1...I ALMOST went with a factory GM cam but I couldnt bring myself to do it lol.....so I also added some Pac 1218 Valve Springs and for my cam I went with the High Lift version of Summit's new Stage 1 truck cam...I didnt take as many pics this time but here is what I got...


Taking L96 Apart
4xuRhfn.jpg


After Ball Hone
LopLivg.jpg

a5bVYz3.jpg


LS2 Pistons
ixuoBOx.jpg

6Pi6CdG.jpg


Pistons Installed
rWJQmVu.jpg


Summit Cam - Part 8719 - 209/217 .550/.550 112+1 LSA
soilwlQ.jpg


Went with CHE Trunnion Upgrade this time (my Straub Kit held up great in the LS3 and the bushings still look new after 10k miles, I just like to try other products). I will say the CHE kit is easier to install as the new bushings dont have to be pressed in like with the Straub kit.
G5EyWpy.jpg

PoGBIY1.jpg


LS3 Out
9GXgyOE.jpg


Fast Forward 2 days later and L96/LS2 Hybrid In
cYdVlTH.jpg


Still working on some break in miles and I need to get the tune checked....I will eventually get another vid up for comparison to the LS3
 

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