2013 Escalade ESV Next BIG adventure: Cooling system refresh, Big 3 Electrical upgrade, Reseal intake, and VLOM mod...

[j91z28d1]

iamdub, thanks for the info! I did not realize the VVT cam phaser was also a ‘wear’ item.
Since we are looking that far in, what about:
-timing set?
-timing chain tensioner? (I thought I read something about there being a better option for this)

Thanks!




Hello j91z28d1: yeah…I tend to go overboard.
I have replaced the coolant Tees at the firewall and the heater hoses that connect to them.
I am not familiar with the ‘rear heat elbows’.

I will have to research that.


Thanks!

if you take a look under the back of your truck on the passenger side. there's a heater core back there for the rear heat. I got the part number off the board here, but I don't remember from who. the arw Dorman thou, I couldn't sort out how to find delco ones.

 

[skpyle]

if you take a look under the back of your truck on the passenger side. there's a heater core back there for the rear heat. I got the part number off the board here, but I don't remember from who. the arw Dorman thou, I couldn't sort out how to find delco ones.

Ah. I knew there was a heater core back there.
However, I thought the plastic ends of the heater hoses were molded on.
I will climb under and get a better look.

Thanks!

 

[skpyle]

OK, I am getting cold feet.
I have read through various procedures in the service manual, and this is becoming a steeper and steeper slippery slope.

To replace the VVT actuator (camshaft sprocket):
-lower front differential
-remove oil pan
-remove timing cover
-remove oil pump
-remove timing chain tensioner
-remove VVT actuator and timing chain

And this is on the edge of the cliff of:
Since you was in there...
AMF Delete
-'Just Pop the heads off to replace the lifters.'
-pull the radiator
-pull the AC condenser
-pull the auxiliary transmission cooler
-replace camshaft


To be honest, that is WAY more money and time than I want to do right now.
The scope of what I am doing now was some preventive maintenance. My intent was only to have my Escalade down for a couple-three weeks.
All the above will add considerably more time to this.

 

[donjetman]

@skpyle
Pinning the balancer to the crank is a easy common mod for all LS engines. Youtube and summit racing are your friends.

 

[j91z28d1]

is there any reason to pin the crank in a stock truck?

I've only heard of it done if you're turning a supercharger off the crank pulley or maybe high rpm race engine?

 

[donjetman]

I have 3 vehicles with LS engines. All of which are driven conservatively, so none are pinned. I do plan on changing the balancer on 2 of them (07 Denali & 02 Corvette) this winter. I probably won't pin them, but never say never.

 

[iamdub]

iamdub, thanks for the info! I did not realize the VVT cam phaser was also a ‘wear’ item.
Since we are looking that far in, what about:
-timing set?

The phaser is the cam sprocket, so that's a third of the timing set. I'd replace the phaser and not worry about the timing set. But, for just five more bolts, you can remove the oil pump and replace everything.

-timing chain tensioner? (I thought I read something about there being a better option for this)

Supposedly, the LS2 style chain damper is the "better option". What we have is a spring-loaded tensioner. Personally, I like the the constant tension function and kept it. The risk is the spring or some other part breaking and getting caught by the timing set and wreaking havoc. The LS2 damper is just a block that goes in the middle of the chain and limits the amount of slack the chain can have on the long runs off the sprockets.

 

[iamdub]

OK, I am getting cold feet.
I have read through various procedures in the service manual, and this is becoming a steeper and steeper slippery slope.

To replace the VVT actuator (camshaft sprocket):
-lower front differential
-remove oil pan
-remove timing cover
-remove oil pump
-remove timing chain tensioner
-remove VVT actuator and timing chain

And this is on the edge of the cliff of:
Since you was in there...
AMF Delete
-'Just Pop the heads off to replace the lifters.'
-pull the radiator
-pull the AC condenser
-pull the auxiliary transmission cooler
-replace camshaft


To be honest, that is WAY more money and time than I want to do right now.
The scope of what I am doing now was some preventive maintenance. My intent was only to have my Escalade down for a couple-three weeks.
All the above will add considerably more time to this.

I get it! I had to mention it since you were so close. You're right- you'd be minutes away from an AFM delete. Removing that crank pulley is the gateway to a potential snowball that basically goes: Front crank seal > Front cover gasket > Oil pump > Timing set and phaser > AFM delete

If you're replacing the pulley, you could at least replace the crank seal. This can be done with the cover in place. Or, if it's not a high-mileage engine and/or you don't drive it a lot and if it's not leaking, leave the seal alone and git 'er done.

 

[skpyle]

The phaser is the cam sprocket, so that's a third of the timing set. I'd replace the phaser and not worry about the timing set. But, for just five more bolts, you can remove the oil pump and replace everything.




Supposedly, the LS2 style chain damper is the "better option". What we have is a spring-loaded tensioner. Personally, I like the the constant tension function and kept it. The risk is the spring or some other part breaking and getting caught by the timing set and wreaking havoc. The LS2 damper is just a block that goes in the middle of the chain and limits the amount of slack the chain can have on the long runs off the sprockets.

Thanks, iamdub!
I would stick with the stock tensioner then.
However, to get the 5 more bolts, I have to remove the oil pan. Oil pump doesn't come out without dropping the oil pan, correct?

 

[iamdub]

Thanks, iamdub!
I would stick with the stock tensioner then.
However, to get the 5 more bolts, I have to remove the oil pan. Oil pump doesn't come out without dropping the oil pan, correct?

Weeellllll... You can can finagle that one bolt that holds the pickup tube to the pump a tiny bit at a time. For the hassle, I'd drop the pan. You don't have to remove it, though. Remove the bolts and let it rest on the cross member or diff. Still, it's a PITA and you risk dropping the bolt into the pan. It's not hard to fish out with a magnet cuz the pan is aluminum and the bolt is steel. But it can be quite the annoyance.