2013 Escalade ESV Next BIG adventure: Cooling system refresh, Big 3 Electrical upgrade, Reseal intake, and VLOM mod...

[donjetman]

you lost me when you said CASE

That is the ‘crank-cam variation’ procedure.
Service manual requires this procedure be done when either is replaced.

I did the procedure after the initial test drive, because I forgot.
I didn’t do it initially because you have to accelerate to WOT, with the Tech 2 cutting fuel just past 4000RPM.
I didn’t want to do that on a cold engine.

However, the engine ran fine and the MIL never illuminated on the short test drive.

On the storage shelf they'll stay

 

[iamdub]

you lost me when you said CASE

Sorry. I didn't mean to offend. Was trying to help. Perhaps a misnomer in this context, but it's an old GM term.

 

[donjetman]

@skpyle
verify that after installing new the cam and crank position sensors that the ecm etc does NOT need to be told to play nice with these new parts??

I bought new cam & crank position sensors yrs ago but haven't installed them because I was led to believe I would need a Tech2 or whatever it takes to make them play nice.

I'll rephase the question: "is the installation of new cam and/or crank position sensor "PLUG & PLAY" ?
Possibe answers = yes, no, maybe, and maybe not

 

[iamdub]

I'll rephase the question: "is the installation of new cam and/or crank position sensor "PLUG & PLAY" ?
Possibe answers = yes, no, maybe, and maybe not

Maybe.

 

[ivin74]

You know, I could respond to this in one of two ways…

I choose to be polite and professional.

. And I chose to spend my money on preventative maintenance on my vehicles.

I am sorry if my spending seems a frippery to you. I do respect your opinion, though.

Good day to you.

Great response! To A h o l e coments
I'm like you, I do preventive maintenance on all my vehicles and it pays off in the long haul. Most folks drive their vehicles to the ground and replace parts once they fail (with china parts) and expect those vehicles to be dependable. Lol

keep up the good work.

 

[skpyle]

Nice little kick in the teeth...

Thursday morning, I leave the building at work, hit remote start. To my ear, it seemed like the engine cranked longer than normal, but it started. I got in the Escalade to find the Traction Control indicator illuminated on the instrument cluster. With DIC messages for 'Service Stabilitrak' and 'Service Traction Control'.

Great. No ABS indicator, likely an engine related issue, which prevents the above systems from being enabled.
Engine seemed to run fine.

Put the transmission into gear, and start driving home.

Nothing appeared wrong, but the 6.2L just didn't feel right. Nothing I could put my finger on. Then I noticed the tachometer wasn't working. Uh-oh...

The Sony touch screen head unit I have also reads engine data through the OBDII port. On the app, that tachometer also wasn't working.

A couple times on the drive home, the engine 'bucked' once. I drove home gingerly. None of my usual lead foot.

Got home uneventfully, pulled out the Tech 2. Pulled DTC's: P0335 CKP Sensor Circuit. Sheet. That means there is likely something wrong with the Delphi CKP sensor I installed back in December. Or the wiring.
I tried starting the engine, it cranked for a few seconds, then started. Just like I heard earlier at work.
Looking at live data under Ignition section, the CKP Sensor showed 644-650RPM, and CKP Active Counter read 0 and was not incrementing. This was part of the troubleshooting that indicates a failed CKP sensor.

Looking at All Data information for P0335, it stated that the ECM used the cam position sensor for engine position, the VVT solenoid was driven to park position, and there could be engine drivability issues. That explains what I saw and felt.

Nothing I could do at that point, as I had to get some sleep before work Thursday night.


Today, I was able to jack up the Escalade for troubleshooting. I had read through the troubleshooting information on All Data, so I was semi-familiar with what I was getting into. However, Step 1 is to swap the CKP sensor. Luckily, I have a touch of OCD. Whenever I replace sensors and such, I always hold onto the old ones(assuming they worked). I pulled the original OEM CKP sensor out of the spares box, and installed it in the engine.

Hit the key, 6.2L fired right up. No extra cranking, no DTC's.

At the time, I installed the Delphi SS11397-11B1 sensor because the OEM GM Genuine 12703627 was unavailable. It is available now. I have a 12703627 ordered and on the way.

For giggles, I went to RockAuto.com to look into warranty replacement. That is the thing. No problem replacing it, but they will send me a new one. I don't want a new Delphi CKP sensor.
It'll be alright.

No photos for this one, as all it would be is me wrestling with the starter and saying unpleasant words.

 

[petethepug]

You are the Escalade whisperer. Lucky truck to have a savvy owner.

 

[skpyle]

You are the Escalade whisperer. Lucky truck to have a savvy owner.

Thanks! I appreciate that.

 

[skpyle]

I've been so wrapped up in the project to install the PPV brakes on my Escalade, that I forgot to post an update.

New GM Genuine 12703627 CKP sensor arrived on th 14th, and I was able to install it on the 15th. 6.2L fired right up, no hesitation, no extended cranking, and no MIL. In 'Ignition Data' on the Tech 2, CKP Active Counter was incrementing and resetting.
Much better.
I have not yet driven my Escalade becuase I am still dealing with the brakes. Soon...



OEM CKP sensor at left, new 12703627 CKP sensor at right.

 

[opfor2]

Friday, before I laid down for a nap, I tried replacing the locks, O-rings, and spacers for the rear heater core hose quick disconnects.
And failed miserably.


View attachment 416708
Rear heater core hose quick disconnects under the passenger's side rear of the vehicle.


View attachment 416709


View attachment 416710
Could not depress the locking tabs enough for the quick disconnects to release. Did not want to get medieval and break anything.



As far as I can tell, the quick disconnects are the same as the heater hoses that connect to the heater Tees under the hood. However, I could not get the locking tabs to release for love nor money. I tried my fingers, hose pliers, and Knipex pliers. No love. I gave up before I broke something.
I will revisit this in the near future.
In my mind, the O-ring seals and locks are 10 years old. Couldn't hurt to replace them.



View attachment 416711
GM seal and lock kit for rear heater core hose quick disconnects.


View attachment 416712
Spacer goes between the two O-rings. The lock inserts snap into the heater hose quick disconnect housings.

Did you ever manage to get the hoses removed and seals replaced?