manual do it at 1/2 of what it saysI feel like thi is gonna be a silly question, but is there a list someplace of ALL the scheduled maintenances?
joe
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manual do it at 1/2 of what it saysI feel like thi is gonna be a silly question, but is there a list someplace of ALL the scheduled maintenances?
joe
Thinking my truck needs many things to be “as new”.
Curious as to what all of you think should be done as preventive maintenance vs what you would just wait till it breaks to fix. For example: replace shocks/struts at 100k miles or wait till they break? Replace upper and lower ball joints, or wait till they break?
I don’t want to just dump money into the truck, but sometimes it is cheaper to do preventative vs reactive.
Br—
You replace those head studs yet?I used to have a '93 Cadillac STS... Northstar V8..... I changed the engine, and everything I could, used heat reflective wrap. Heat from the engine was killing the plastic, vacuum and the fluid lines running near the block.
Also protect electric connections.
I do "all" my fluids annually, regardless of miles driven
I did all 4 of the 02 sensors at 100k (which is what they are rated for)
my shocks/struts almost made it to 100k they had to be replaced
I am at 115k and just had a very thorough front end inspection-got a clean bill of health so no worries about ball joints, etc at this time
radiators I replace at 5 years as a general rule of thumb I live in California so the heat kills them
batteries barely make it 3+ years around here as well
my vehicle is a 2012 so I just purchased all new heater hoses and "t"' connectors to put on this spring, this is a problem area for these trucks sooner or later those "t"'s get weak from the heat and break so this is a preventive maintenance for me
I added a bigger external trans cooler and deep trans pan to keep the trans temps down, a cooler trans will last longer "heat kills"
I also upgraded the electric cooling fan system to dual 700w fans (rpo k5l) some vehicles come with that option already mine did not so I added it
I am planning on wrapping the fuel rail with heat wrap to help prevent any possible "vapor lock" that generally only occurs at higher elevation but better safe than sorry and it just applies to my general "heat kills" thing.
I also get under the truck and check visually for any leaks or missing parts about once a month, sometimes one thing can lead to another so I try to stay on top of it.
I plan on driving this for many years so anything I can do to help make it last longer is money saved down the road.
well the pan alone didn't do much cooling wise but it certainly didn't hurt to have more fluid available, combined they work really well, just a heads up if you plan on buying the B&M pan it has a long waiting period first time I bought one it took 3 months, I have a 2nd one on order now for 2 months so far and nothing yet the date keeps getting pushed back.05’ Yukon xl with the 5.3 and 4L60e. I tow a few times a year approx. 5k lbs. how much better is an upgraded cooler as opposed to a deep trans pan. I have 75k miles on it now (new to me at 72k) and I plan on doing all fluids at 100k I figured it would be a good time to switch to a deep pan? But $$$ is always a thought.
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Yes!, step one upgraded cluster with trans gauge. $125 plus the cost of a cooler and it starts to get up there. Also want an upgraded head unit. [emoji16]What @Doubeleive said. I think an upgraded cooler would be most efficient. I recently had my gauge cluster updated to add the transmission temp gauge, and it helps to know what kind of temps you're seeing, especially while towing.