2013 Yukon 2500 XL: Torque Converter, BU60FHD?

[Trionic]

2013 Yukon 2500 XL
144k miles, 4.4k engine hours.

This place is awesome with such a high level of technical knowledge, thanks ahead of time for any responses.

Our 'new to us' Yukon has developed a rear main leak. I've been reading through various posts here, and it seems like the BU60FHD from Summit is an upgrade that people like.

The truck is bone stock and will probably stay that way, my wife likes driving it for errands occasionally and we use it for vacations etc., and I pull a 10,000 lb. equipment trailer with it occasionally if I have to move a machine or vehicle anywhere. We're up in MD and I drove down to FL to get one of these that's rust free, and I'm hoping to keep it forever.

I've read the Sonnax article (https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resourc...der-an-updated-converter-in-your-next-rebuild) on suspected failure causes with the stock TC.

Q1: Are there any other TC options that I should be considering other than the BU60FHD? I don't mind paying money for stuff that's better or will last longer.

Q2: What about fluid? I run Valvoline MaxLife in all of our other automatic vehicles.

Q3: What else should I consider doing? I've done zip kit valve body rebuilds on other transmissions, I assume that if I decide to do one later that I can do it without removing the trans(?). I do all my own work normally, but I think I'm going to pay a local shop to do this rear main seal job and TC swap.

 

[blondie70]

That's what I swapped into mine recently...as a preventative measure (like you)...all good so far.

 

[NickTransmissions]

2013 Yukon 2500 XL
144k miles, 4.4k engine hours.

This place is awesome with such a high level of technical knowledge, thanks ahead of time for any responses.

Our 'new to us' Yukon has developed a rear main leak. I've been reading through various posts here, and it seems like the BU60FHD from Summit is an upgrade that people like.

The truck is bone stock and will probably stay that way, my wife likes driving it for errands occasionally and we use it for vacations etc., and I pull a 10,000 lb. equipment trailer with it occasionally if I have to move a machine or vehicle anywhere. We're up in MD and I drove down to FL to get one of these that's rust free, and I'm hoping to keep it forever.

I've read the Sonnax article (https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resourc...der-an-updated-converter-in-your-next-rebuild) on suspected failure causes with the stock TC.

Q1: Are there any other TC options that I should be considering other than the BU60FHD? I don't mind paying money for stuff that's better or will last longer.

Q2: What about fluid? I run Valvoline MaxLife in all of our other automatic vehicles.

Q3: What else should I consider doing? I've done zip kit valve body rebuilds on other transmissions, I assume that if I decide to do one later that I can do it without removing the trans(?). I do all my own work normally, but I think I'm going to pay a local shop to do this rear main seal job and TC swap.

Q1: Look for local converter builders with good reviews - any TC you buy should have a thicker clutch than the .022" woven style clutch that comes in the factory JMBX converters

Q2: Any Dex VI fluid will do; Maxlife is fine

Q3: Zip kit is a great hydraulic correction kit; I install them in all the GM and Ford six-speeds I rebuild. Install it then reset your adapts (fast adapt relearn) with your scan tool You wont be able to install the PR drop-in valve unless you take the pump out but all the valve body parts will install...

 

[intheburbs]

I bought my 2500 back in 2013. Just about the first thing I did was get a Blackbear tune. They dialed out 50% of torque management. That, coupled with frequent fluid changes (every 50k, sometimes more frequent when towing heavy) IMHO is why my 6L90 is still going strong at 260k miles. Full fluid changes, not just dropping the pan and changing out a few quarts. Tapping a coolant line and running fluid through it until it comes out clean.

And I don't drive like a grandma. If I'm not towing a behemoth travel trailer, I'm towing my 4,000-lb 6x12 trailer, and when I'm not towing, I'm cruising across country at 90+ MPH.

Just recently took it on vacation dragging an 8,000-lb trailer through the Rockies, logging 5000 miles in two and a half weeks. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...e-2500-35-foot-trailer-in-the-rockies.150478/

 

[Trionic]

You guys have given me some more things to think about. Thank you.

I wasn't considering a tune, and I'm going to see if I can find a local shop that does rebuilds; my problem is that I don't really trust anyone.

 

[NickTransmissions]

my problem is that I don't really trust anyone.

Neither do I hence why I taught myself how to build transmissions. If I can do it, you certainly can...My 6L80 Info thread (link is in my sig) has all the info to help you get started.

Let me know (or post in that thread) if you have any questions once you get started.

 

[jonnyb]

Q1: Look for local converter builders with good reviews - any TC you buy should have a thicker clutch than the .022" woven style clutch that comes in the factory JMBX converters

Q2: Any Dex VI fluid will do; Maxlife is fine

Q3: Zip kit is a great hydraulic correction kit; I install them in all the GM and Ford six-speeds I rebuild. Install it then reset your adapts (fast adapt relearn) with your scan tool You wont be able to install the PR drop-in valve unless you take the pump out but all the valve body parts will install...

Not germane to the subject but - I'm considering buying a 2013 Suburban; apparently they are very low repair issues with this year truck. comments? Thanks!