SOLVED - 2014 Suburban Electrical gremlins

[bacon612]

Only that there is a fuel economy mode, and it is tied to the current sensor.
(And that they were considering dropping that mode for dual batts.. why?)

It's just me, I find stupid things interesting..

I understand what you were trying to say now

 

[Doubeleive]

I saw that. If I have to live with not knowing what is causing my issue when everything is plugged in as intended, I will go this route. It'd still be nice to know what is causing my issue, though.

I didn't know they had it until well after I had bought there $400 2-pin alternator

 

[bacon612]

I didn't know they had it until well after I had bought there $400 2-pin alternator

Interesting. So you are using one of these mechman alternators. I have had 3 of the OEM Delco alternators in my truck including the factory one that had ~125k miles on it. A part of me wonders if maybe whatever talks to the RVC system isnt calibrated properly. The two new Delco alternators ive had in the truck were ordered from SummitRacing (where i also see the mechman units sold for $$$). Summit sells a Bosch reman unit thats also 160 amp just like the delco i am using. In my deep reading, Bosch is the company responsible for this delco RVC design. Almost curious to try a different alternator and see if it makes any difference.

I am also thinking that its probably time to get a tech2. Anyone have opinions of a decent model they'd recommend?

 

[Doubeleive]

Interesting. So you are using one of these mechman alternators. I have had 3 of the OEM Delco alternators in my truck including the factory one that had ~125k miles on it. A part of me wonders if maybe whatever talks to the RVC system isnt calibrated properly. The two new Delco alternators ive had in the truck were ordered from SummitRacing (where i also see the mechman units sold for $$$). Summit sells a Bosch reman unit thats also 160 amp just like the delco i am using. In my deep reading, Bosch is the company responsible for this delco RVC design. Almost curious to try a different alternator and see if it makes any difference.

I am also thinking that its probably time to get a tech2. Anyone have opinions of a decent model they'd recommend?

I ended up buying the mechman because I had bought a couple other higher-amperage units and they failed within a short period the mechman has held up fine.
the newer 2015+ gm ac delco alternators are the same design as the mechman with pressed diode's
this one is probably the safest bet as you are covered by ebay if it fails to arrive or is doa

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[solli5pack]

Dropped the dome light. Everything looks new in there.

I did, however, find something curious. If i disconnect the 2 pin connector on the alternator (which i think is the RVC system) Amperage with my mulitmeter reads a rock steady 13.6V. No surging headlights or interior lights. Rock solid. Why?

While i could just keep the 2 wire connector off of the alternator and put up with reasonable voltage with no fluctuations with a 'fix charging system' warninig light, I'd much rather know why the RVC system is causing my problem....

Any thoughts out there?

So I had some residual flickering with the Yukon after cleaning all the corrosion. Went out and pulled the two pin connector and lights are rock solid. Not a single flicker. Also no Check engine light yet with the connector unplugged. Thanks to @mikez71 diagram looks like it runs right to the ECM. Leaving it unplugged and we'll see what.happens. More research to do on RVC....RVC delete?

 

[mikez71]

Maybe bad sensor? bad connection?
keep us updated!

 

[bacon612]

I think my next steps are to test the charging system based on some images i found on another thread. I just need to get a tech II first.

 

[solli5pack]

I had to plug it back in this morning. Voltage dropped below 12 volts when I started it up according to the dash gauge. The engine definitely idles differently when the plug is plugged in. At least we have something to chase now.

 

[mikez71]

You are talking about the alternator plug, not the rvc sensor right?

Because, I thought it was odd that the bacon612's alt defaulted to 13.6V..
which is the stock initialization duty cycle of 60%=13.8V
But I thought the alternator needed that signal really..

 

[Doubeleive]

So I had some residual flickering with the Yukon after cleaning all the corrosion. Went out and pulled the two pin connector and lights are rock solid. Not a single flicker. Also no Check engine light yet with the connector unplugged. Thanks to @mikez71 diagram looks like it runs right to the ECM. Leaving it unplugged and we'll see what.happens. More research to do on RVC....RVC delete?

Might want to post on your original thread in order to prevent confusion here.......