2015 GMC Yukon LED DRL Problem

[Santiago Carbajal]

You bought the whole light or just the board?

Thw whole light

 

[reath1]

Halogen or HID? Thanks.

 

[Santiago Carbajal]

Halogen or HID? Thanks.

Hid

 

[reath1]

Care to sell your old board?

 

[Santiago Carbajal]

Care to sell your old board?

I will let u know on that, imma see if I could some how get these boards elsewhere first

 

[reath1]

And did you buy the correct "side" headlight or are boards for left and right the same?

 

[Santiago Carbajal]

And did you buy the correct "side" headlight or are boards for left and right the same?

I bought the rite side , dont think they'll be different they just have same purpose to turn onn, turn off ,dim the led drl
I could be wrong

 

[Raider98]

No problem at all. I just hate looking for a solution and people just mention it with no details lol. If you decide to tackle this, let me know how it turns out

Terrific write up! I found this post and gave it a try. It worked! I too was not going to pay the ridiculous price of a new headlamp assembly with installation labor. Getting the bumper cover off was the hardest part for me. The clips that hold it on under the fender were, to put it nicely, challenging to separate. This was mainly because you have to get between two painted surfaces to get them loose and I did not want to cause damage.

It is insane that we have to remove the entire bumper to get to one bolt that it blocks access to remove the headlamp assembly!.. but I digress.

Thanks to Brent (from another Brent) for this outstanding post. I am not a great solderer but I can make connections; low and behold it works! Really appreciate the post and info.

 

[House Doctor Ray]

FOUND POSSIBLE SOLUTION (well for me at least)

My exact issue: Front passenger side DRL LED trim not working on 2015 GMC Yukon SLT

So I've been looking all around the internet for a solution to this issue and I finally came across this article today. I never found a solution for myself so I had to figure it out. Sorry in advance if someone else somewhere has posted a solution to this.

My Issue:
I was having the exact same issue with mine and was not willing to pay an outrageous amount of money for a new assembly so I started to do some research. After removing the assembly and running some continuity test on the light harness I noticed that the LED trim (DRL) had power running to it like it was suppose to even when the light was not working. I then pulled the two round light bulb covers from the back of the housing to take a look inside. (SIDE NOTE - my condensation issue in the light was due to the round O ring gasket on the high beam light cover not sealing properly. I saw water all around that gasket.) So after looking inside I saw a circuit board and the bottom and wanted to take a closer look at it but it was hard to see. I had no choice but to separate the light housing. YES I know that this is a daunting task and I do not recommend anyone doing this unless you are fully confident in doing so.

What I noticed:
The circuit board was mounted at three points on the corner by screws, but not at the 4th point. This mounting point was just sitting on a guide pin and that was where MY problem was. Due to the light having water and condensation buildup, it was causing corrosion on the circuit board right at this test point - see image 1 and 2. The test point is the small little hole beside the mounting point. This was causing the light to short out.

View attachment 353401

View attachment 353402

What I did to fix it:
I have a friend that works on circuit boards for a living and he fixed it in literally 2 minutes haha, but I feel that it can be fixed by anyone that knows how to solder. He just simply bypassed the bad corroded circuit with a small wire (Image 3, Image 4). He said that he is 99% sure that it was the issue and it should work just fine. After getting home and reconnecting everything and resealing the light and holding my breath....... IT WORKED!

View attachment 353403

View attachment 353404

Remember to keep in mind that this worked great for me, but may not work for you. It is also a very daunting task and please take caution when doing this. Also taking the light apart and putting it back together is a tough one as well lol. Trust me. Hope this helps

View attachment 228733 View attachment 228734 View attachment 228745 View attachment 228746

Thanks a bunch for this. I'm going to give this a try tomorrow. I have to take apart both lights; left side full of water but DRL works, right side DRL doesn't work.

 

[House Doctor Ray]

FOUND POSSIBLE SOLUTION (well for me at least)

My exact issue: Front passenger side DRL LED trim not working on 2015 GMC Yukon SLT

So I've been looking all around the internet for a solution to this issue and I finally came across this article today. I never found a solution for myself so I had to figure it out. Sorry in advance if someone else somewhere has posted a solution to this.

My Issue:
I was having the exact same issue with mine and was not willing to pay an outrageous amount of money for a new assembly so I started to do some research. After removing the assembly and running some continuity test on the light harness I noticed that the LED trim (DRL) had power running to it like it was suppose to even when the light was not working. I then pulled the two round light bulb covers from the back of the housing to take a look inside. (SIDE NOTE - my condensation issue in the light was due to the round O ring gasket on the high beam light cover not sealing properly. I saw water all around that gasket.) So after looking inside I saw a circuit board and the bottom and wanted to take a closer look at it but it was hard to see. I had no choice but to separate the light housing. YES I know that this is a daunting task and I do not recommend anyone doing this unless you are fully confident in doing so.

What I noticed:
The circuit board was mounted at three points on the corner by screws, but not at the 4th point. This mounting point was just sitting on a guide pin and that was where MY problem was. Due to the light having water and condensation buildup, it was causing corrosion on the circuit board right at this test point - see image 1 and 2. The test point is the small little hole beside the mounting point. This was causing the light to short out.

View attachment 353401

View attachment 353402

What I did to fix it:
I have a friend that works on circuit boards for a living and he fixed it in literally 2 minutes haha, but I feel that it can be fixed by anyone that knows how to solder. He just simply bypassed the bad corroded circuit with a small wire (Image 3, Image 4). He said that he is 99% sure that it was the issue and it should work just fine. After getting home and reconnecting everything and resealing the light and holding my breath....... IT WORKED!

View attachment 353403

View attachment 353404

Remember to keep in mind that this worked great for me, but may not work for you. It is also a very daunting task and please take caution when doing this. Also taking the light apart and putting it back together is a tough one as well lol. Trust me. Hope this helps

View attachment 228733 View attachment 228734 View attachment 228745 View attachment 228746

Finally tackled this repair and it worked great. I didn't have to buy a $1,000 light, thanks Brent!
I made a video of the process: