2015 GMC Yukon LED DRL Problem

[CMoore711]

@Rugdr @reath1 @brentcooper315 @cmatt @Santiago Carbajal

I know this is an old thread but hoping I get some insight or input from others.

Been doing some R&D planning and starting to go down the road of doing a projector upgrade and/or retrofit on my K2XX Yukon headlights. Looking like it's going to require to heat up the head light assembly and open it up to perform the projector retrofit upgrades and reseal it.

Two Questions:
1. Has anyone ever done this DRL LED strip repair procedure detailed in this video and thread of adding the jumper wire on the LED circuit board to a brand new and/or currently functioning circuit board as a "preventative measure"?
2. If you did do this repair to a brand new circuit board or good working/functioning circuit board did it have any ill affect on the functioning LED DRL strip?

I'm not experienced enough in circuit boards and the way they work to know if proactively doing this repair to a good working circuit board would cause an issue or if doing it would add a "back-up" or "reinforce" the long term functionality of the DRL LED strip.

Since I'll be opening the headlights and disassembling them to do the low beam projector retrofit/upgrade I'd like to do any and all headlight upgrades and preventative measures all at once while the headlight housing is open before resealing them back up.

 

[D-WOOD]

Has anyone been able to find that board besides buying an entire headlight for parts?

 

[JPH]

Old thread but I just completed this so wanted to add some ideas for the next poor soul who has to do this. My lamp had lost its DRL and blinker LED function

1. Disassembly
Don't let House Doctor Ray video lull you into thinking this is always easy. I broke four tabs off the bumper fascia taking it off and cleaning the housing of butyl took forever. (probably 15 heat cycles and still was not as clean as Ray's). My LED driver board was also corroded in other places so non-repairable
2. I found only one refurb place that sells the lights but they don't always have stock (my refurb did not have the GMC label in the side of the lamp if that is important to you)
https://www.getallparts.com/p-11686...adlight-assembly-oe-certified-gm2503409r.aspx
mine arrived with a broken tab but decided to keep it and move everything over to the old housing (since my board was beyond repair - LED driver leg corroded)
it appears to come with a new brand new board (attached) but I could not find a way to get just the board
3. I used the Morimoto butyl for reassembly - It helped to have a buddy help me feed the butyl, rotate the lamp and string out the coil of butyl - I referred to this video

4. Reassembly - I decided to replace the lamp covers as some have speculated this is the source of the moisture - for 2015 Yukon the part is GM #22941303
I also pulled the other headlight and baked it to remove any moisture and then replaced all 4 lamp covers
5. Bumper repair - I ended up having to do plastic welding to repair the 4 tabs - I referenced this site for tools, parts and videos
https://www.polyvance.com/Airless-Welders-1/
https://www.polyvance.com/video/fiberflex-repair/bumper-tab-repair
https://www.polyvance.com/video/nit...r-cover-repair-how-to-repair-broken-slot-tabs
6. If you shop for a new light be warned some Internet GM dealers have wrong prices posted ($600) versus the list of $1200 - they blame GM for loading the wrong prices - call first
All in it cost me just under $600 but the other alternative was a new light since I had a toasted board - really painful process but still less than retail