2015 Yukon HID Conversion from The Retrofit Source

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GalaxyBlackEsky

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Yeah most stock house projectors have good cutoff.. Wife has projectors in her 13 300c and put HID's in and they had great cutoff. But had to take them out because I couldn't figure out for the crap of me why they would flicker all the time. Had all the parts so it would do it as well.
 

DetTigers

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I also just completed this upgrade. Got the same kit as OP except I got the HD relay instead of the Canbus and 5k color bulbs instead of the 4300k. Knowing what I know now I should have went with the Canbus- less wires which make for an easier/cleaner install. The light output/cutoff is fantastic. All this stuff about how it's a bad idea to put HID's in halogen projectors is baloney if you ask me. I'd even be willing to bet they are the same projectors as in the Denali. I've had factory HID's in my mustang and F150 and these are as good if not better.

Those on the fence I would highly recommend the upgrade- $170 and an hour of your time for awesome looking lights that actually match the daytime running lamps.
 

iCalvin

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Yeah most stock house projectors have good cutoff.. Wife has projectors in her 13 300c and put HID's in and they had great cutoff. But had to take them out because I couldn't figure out for the crap of me why they would flicker all the time. Had all the parts so it would do it as well.

Most modern day Mopar vehicles need a capacitor or Can-bus harness in line to get rid of the flicker. Dunno if you tried that or not, just a suggestion.

The cutoff doesn't look bad either, but still a noticeable amount of glare above the cutoff. I don't think these projectors were the same as the H11 Valeo projectors I swapped out of my dads 14 Silvy, but the stock projectors had what I call "HID in ebay projector glare." Still really annoying but better that reflectors. Nevertheless, really nice truck you have there.
 

twhitechurch

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So I just did my install and only one light would turn on and to get the other one to turn on I would have to flick the switch on and off until they would both turn on I called the retrofit source and they told me that using the relay it's better than using canbus. So I'm going to wait until later this week swap them out but all in all the lights look great.

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Steve1081

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So I just did my install and only one light would turn on and to get the other one to turn on I would have to flick the switch on and off until they would both turn on I called the retrofit source and they told me that using the relay it's better than using canbus. So I'm going to wait until later this week swap them out but all in all the lights look great.

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So you were having the issue with the light firing with the Canbus and you are going to switch to the relay? That will mean running power from the fuse panel or battery correct?

Are you running 35w ballasts?

I haven't had any problems with the lights firing with the Canbus. But I will continue to watch for that.


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twhitechurch

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Yea I guess so, it's weird maybe with time the ballasts just need to warm up or something

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GalaxyBlackEsky

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Most modern day Mopar vehicles need a capacitor or Can-bus harness in line to get rid of the flicker. Dunno if you tried that or not, just a suggestion.

The cutoff doesn't look bad either, but still a noticeable amount of glare above the cutoff. I don't think these projectors were the same as the H11 Valeo projectors I swapped out of my dads 14 Silvy, but the stock projectors had what I call "HID in ebay projector glare." Still really annoying but better that reflectors. Nevertheless, really nice truck you have there.

Yeah I had all that. Still couldn't figure it out. So I took them out. Its my wifes car and I didn't want any issues with her drving with our kids.
 

08grey

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Canbus or error cancellors needed on the new trucks. Even with relay harness.
 

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