2019 Suburban mid travel

[RB_Trucker]

I finally started my mid-travel kit install, I have everything laid out on the table getting it organized according to what the parts go on. — coil overs and arms are side specific and DK did a good job labeling them properly.
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[RB_Trucker]

Here’s the front end taken apart and showing the bump stop you need to cut off in order for the new fabricated arms to droop properly. You will get about 1” more down travel with the uniball setup.
now with the bump stop it can be cut off with a cutting wheel or sawzall. I used a sawzall with a heavy duty bimetal blade. That was the hardest part of this project.
notice I used wire to hold my knuckle up to keep the ABS and brake lines from over stretching.

 

[RB_Trucker]

So here is the Uniball upper install,
before I pulled the arms off I went ahead and scribed a mark on the alignment locks on the factory pieces of where the alignment was set, i then transferred the marks over to the DK alignment lock kit pieces. (if you are using the stock alignment cams then you don’t have to do this)
everything is pre installed when you get these uppers from DK. They provide white grease for the bushings before installing onto the truck. I had a little bit of an issue with fit but that was due to the heavy duty nature of the arms. The arm pivot pockets were about 1/8” too tight and I had to use my spreader bar to open up the space without damaging anything. ARMS ARE SIDE SPECIFIC!!
once the arms were on I went ahead and installed the new hardware and locking alignment cams and lined up the peg with the corresponding hole for the cams. Once in place I tightened but not torqued until earthling else was installed. Upper arm bolts need 100 Ft-lbs of torque.

 

[RB_Trucker]

The Fox 2.5 reservoirs came next. They are side specific also. They are preset to 2.5” from DK and the bottom T-bar that bolts to the lower are is threaded and uses grade 8 bolts that go in from the bottom of the lower arm. I bolted the bottom in first and used my jack to raise and line up the ”top hat” into the coil bucket.
now with these 2.5 coilovers they do not have studs like the factory struts. You are given 3/4 long grade8 hardware to thread from the top and attach to the coil bucket. I found threading the one closet to you is the easiest way to get everything lined up. Then proceed to thread the other 2 in.
the reservoir mount is really straight forward to install. It slides under the washer and bolt head of the shock bolt. as you can see I did trim my fender liner in order to fit this reservoir properly.


with that being said I will provide more updates this week as the suspension settles and I retorque all the bolts. alignment will be done soon because it’s pretty dang close to what is was before. I do have to say on my test drive I did notice a slightly stiffer ride but more controlled and the ability to soak up dips and bumps like a luxury car were awesome. I did remove the front roll bar and I didn’t notice any adverse changes in body roll. so I will keep it off for now.

 

[olyelr]

I finally started my mid-travel kit install, I have everything laid out on the table getting it organized according to what the parts go on. — coil overs and arms are side specific and DK did a good job labeling them properly.
—

Working off the pool table…i like your style lmao

 

[Fifty]

I like that fox uses a threaded bar. Rather than a nut and bolt like factory or king or ADS.

As for the sway bar removal, I read that the MRC equipped vehicles use really soft sway bars and that the traction control and suspension control module used the adjustable shock to help counter sway.

I have my front and rear bars still In and I noticed my rear bar makes a lot of noise now that I have gone to the taller and more travel border patrol springs.

 

[olyelr]

Here’s the front end taken apart and showing the bump stop you need to cut off in order for the new fabricated arms to droop properly. You will get about 1” more down travel with the uniball setup.
now with the bump stop it can be cut off with a cutting wheel or sawzall. I used a sawzall with a heavy duty bimetal blade. That was the hardest part of this project.
notice I used wire to hold my knuckle up to keep the ABS and brake lines from over stretching.

The wheels apparently fit fine without cutting off the tips of the oem studs ?

 

[RB_Trucker]

Working off the pool table…i like your style lmao

It’s the best way to keep your parts organized with a lot of space lol

 

[RB_Trucker]

I like that fox uses a threaded bar. Rather than a nut and bolt like factory or king or ADS.

As for the sway bar removal, I read that the MRC equipped vehicles use really soft sway bars and that the traction control and suspension control module used the adjustable shock to help counter sway.

I have my front and rear bars still In and I noticed my rear bar makes a lot of noise now that I have gone to the taller and more travel border patrol springs.

The mounting bar is really nice, it is a spherical bearing too that’s easily moved around to adjust for installation.
The downside is there’s no rubber bushing to absorb a lot of the NVH. But strength triumphs over comfort.

When I went with Z-71 springs and 2” spacer my factory roll bar wasn’t happy back there. It does make a bit of noise.

 

[RB_Trucker]

The wheels apparently fit fine without cutting off the tips of the oem studs ?

With 1.5” spacer it was perfect with the original stud length I wanted to keep from shaving the studs down. The spacers are also hubcentric with is important to have with our 16-20 model trucks.