2020 Yukon - PowerStop Rotors Warped after 4 months - SOLVED

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Doubeleive

Wes
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Awesome thanks Doubeleive! The truck hasn't been driven hard or beat on it in anyway. I would love to keep the current setup as its been a nice upgrade to the truck which
stops much better with the PowerStop rotors & pads... Hopefully just a bad caliper. Someone else suggested possibly a problem with the rear end or axle bearings but this issue only occurs during braking and not on acceleration so I don't think its that... I'll followup once the issue is hopefully resolved
one other thing you should consider if it has not been done is "parking brake" if the parking brake shoe is worn off and "touching" that can make noise, perhaps pull the rotors and inspect the parking brake while you are checking things out, just to rule in/out
 

Geotrash

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I have the PowerStop Z23 setup (also drilled and slotted) on the front of my 2007 and they've been flawless. I tow with it occasionally and most recently did so over the spine of the Blue Ridge because it was snowing and I didn't want to use my newer 'garage-kept' Suburban for the trip. Like the others here, I suspect a sticking caliper on yours. I had a front one sticking on this same rig (which is what caused me to have to replace the rotors, pads and calipers in the first place) and it warps the rotors - any rotors - in short order.
 

Marky Dissod

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Thank you Marky, other people said something similar and to stick with OEM. Fronts are currently working well.

Would you recommend replacing the rears with OEM non drilled and slotted? Also could it be a be a problem with a bearing or fitting in the rear axle?
Never said anything against 'slotted', I'm all for 'slotted', with only one condition:
at least one end of each slot should continue past an edge of the braking surface of the rotor.
A slot trapped at both ends is a long dimple, not a slot.
Slots allow brake dust to escape the rotor, not to hide in a dimple.
Tend to prefer slots that escape the rotor's outer edge when rolling forward.

I suppose it could be a bearing? Not sure how it would be a fitting?

The other possibility, believe it or not, is when you sit stopped at the stopsign or redlight,
are you pushing down on the brake pedal too hard?
I knew a cabbie that used the brake pedal as a sort of leg press machine at redlights.
Typically warped rotors til mechanic explained to lighten up unless ground was not level.
 
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2Luckysat

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Follow Up: Just wanted to take a moment to thank everyone for sharing their knowledge and experience. As it turns out the problem was with the front drivers side rotor (not the rear that I initially thought the sound was coming from). The mechanic indexed it and found the front rotor was wobbling due to rust buildup on the hub assembly causing an uneven surface. He tried to clean and sand down everything but decided to change the hub out and reinstall the PowerStop rotor. I've put about 200 miles of local driving since and the issue appears to have been resolved. I deeply appreciate the help and wish you and your families a happy Easter Sunday.
 

mountie

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Follow Up: Just wanted to take a moment to thank everyone for sharing their knowledge and experience. As it turns out the problem was with the front drivers side rotor (not the rear that I initially thought the sound was coming from). The mechanic indexed it and found the front rotor was wobbling due to rust buildup on the hub assembly causing an uneven surface. He tried to clean and sand down everything but decided to change the hub out and reinstall the PowerStop rotor. I've put about 200 miles of local driving since and the issue appears to have been resolved. I deeply appreciate the help and wish you and your families a happy Easter Sunday.
Good to hear...... and we learned a lot!! ( At least, I did ).....
I have PowerStops on my fronts...... and their pads on the rear, for a while.... so far... all's good !!
 

Rocket Man

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Follow Up: Just wanted to take a moment to thank everyone for sharing their knowledge and experience. As it turns out the problem was with the front drivers side rotor (not the rear that I initially thought the sound was coming from). The mechanic indexed it and found the front rotor was wobbling due to rust buildup on the hub assembly causing an uneven surface. He tried to clean and sand down everything but decided to change the hub out and reinstall the PowerStop rotor. I've put about 200 miles of local driving since and the issue appears to have been resolved. I deeply appreciate the help and wish you and your families a happy Easter Sunday.
Thanks for the follow up. It serves as a good reminder to watch for this when we are doing brakes.
 

vcode

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Follow Up: Just wanted to take a moment to thank everyone for sharing their knowledge and experience. As it turns out the problem was with the front drivers side rotor (not the rear that I initially thought the sound was coming from). The mechanic indexed it and found the front rotor was wobbling due to rust buildup on the hub assembly causing an uneven surface. He tried to clean and sand down everything but decided to change the hub out and reinstall the PowerStop rotor. I've put about 200 miles of local driving since and the issue appears to have been resolved. I deeply appreciate the help and wish you and your families a happy Easter Sunday.
Never seen that before and I live in Wisconsin! I've had rotor rust build up where the inner and outer edges of the pads make contact, causing vibration though.
 

Biscuit mobile

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View attachment 455014View attachment 455015

Follow Up To My Original Post: - Just wanted to take a moment to thank everyone for sharing their knowledge and experience. As it turns out the problem was with the front drivers side rotor (not the rear that I initially thought the sound was coming from). The mechanic indexed it and found the front rotor was wobbling due to rust buildup on the hub assembly causing an uneven surface. He tried to clean and sand down everything but decided to change the hub out and reinstall the PowerStop rotor. I've put about 200 miles of local driving since and the issue appears to have been resolved. I deeply appreciate the help and wish you and your families a happy Easter Sunday.

Hi All,
Changed out my brakes after 65K on my 2020 Yukon 5.3 SLT. After doing some research on the site decided to upgrade to PowerStop Z36 Tow and Performance Brake Upgrade Kit K6560-36 Brakes worked flawlessly and All was well for the first 4,000 miles or so then started getting an annoying squeaking noise out of drivers side rear wheel on partial braking (nothing on full brake or when brakes not engaged at all)... Only squeaking on partial brake pedal pressure... Brought to my local shop, he put the truck on the lift and placed truck in drive. Said with wheels spinning he felt some minor warping with placing a finger on drivers side rear rotor... He said he doesn't like aftermarket stuff and would have suggested OEM rotors and pads because in his experience the aftermarket stuff tends to be lower quality. PowerStop did get some good reviews and stopped better than factory in my opinion, but now I had a problem

Called PowerStop and they were nice enough to Warantee two rear rotors and pads. All was well after those Warantee replacements were installed last week, now the damn drivers side rear squeak is back! Any thoughts from guys that know a lot more than me? Could this possibly be something else? Note: both rear calipers were replaced and bleed out at dealer at 60K truck now has 69,000 miles. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated...
Thank you for closing out this post with the solution right up front. This will be used by many over the years searching for brake issue. Awesome.
 

Tcmustang

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one other thing you should consider if it has not been done is "parking brake" if the parking brake shoe is worn off and "touching" that can make noise, perhaps pull the rotors and inspect the parking brake while you are checking things out, just to rule in/out
Just an “ after you got the issue solved” comment. At age 73, I did my first break job on my 66 mustang in 1968, and been doing breaks every year since. And just did complete break job , calipers, rotors on my wifes 2014 GMC Yukon. I am always glad to show people how I do a break job and I learned a long time ago that if you do not wire wheel the rust off the hub or the surface that the rotor sits against, you will experience vibration thinking it is warpage. 1-2 thousandths thick rust can ruin your day and send you down a rabbit hole looking for answers. Just passing info along.
 

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