2022 Yukon AT4 wants BASS

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Fast_AT4

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@Doubeleive When looking for my second battery, do I need to have any concerns other than it being a 12v? I see many different "Group" specs. Was eyeballing this one:

 

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@Doubeleive When looking for my second battery, do I need to have any concerns other than it being a 12v? I see many different "Group" specs. Was eyeballing this one:

a d34 "should" fit in the 2nd battery tray but I cannot confirm, might require minor modification of the tray, I have only looked under the hood of the t2's once and saw they changed all kinds of stuff around, haven't had the opportunity to investigate further, I don't even want one lol, 2020 is my limit
 
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a d34 "should" fit in the 2nd battery tray but I cannot confirm, might require minor modification of the tray, I have only looked under the hood of the t2's once and saw they changed all kinds of stuff around, haven't had the opportunity to investigate further, I don't even want one lol, 2020 is my limit
Will be mounting elsewhere....not under the hood. So size isnt "really" a factor. So other than needing it to be a 12v AGM battery...no other real specs that I need to be concerned about?
 

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Will be mounting elsewhere....not under the hood. So size isnt "really" a factor. So other than needing it to be a 12v AGM battery...no other real specs that I need to be concerned about?
as long as you are running it seperate from the main vehicle battery then no
 
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as long as you are running it seperate from the main vehicle battery then no
I was going to run 0Gauge for power from the main battery to the second battery - Inline Fuse - to amp and LCi2 Pro....no?
 

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I was going to run 0Gauge for power from the main battery to the second battery - Inline Fuse - to amp and LCi2 Pro....no?
might be a good idea to run a battery isolator, so it can charge but is not backfeeding to the main battery, unless you needed it in case the main battery died, then you could just move a cable or flip a switch and start it up.
essentialy it goes along with the general rule "do not mix batteries"
 
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Did a "dirty" dry test today, just to make certain all worked as expected:
ran 0gauge to amp
grounded to bolt for my testing purpose
ran remote wire from front passenger fuse box to amp
jumped out of amp to LC2i

All powered on when the AT4 was started...so no battery drain.

Cut the below board to a perfect/snug fit...doesnt even need to be mounted to the floor, can not move any more forward only backwards and backwards at a slant to get past other seat mounting brackets and such.

Looks pretty proper to me. Might need to wrap the wood board with matching carpet (or just paint it black) to look a tad better; but happy this moment with it and can still get to all the adjustments on amp and LCi2 Pro. Figured this is a nice location for good air flow and with the quick disconnects for the sub; will be easy (short of HEAVY) to remove the box if/when I need to haul something or go for vacation.
434720480_10228944611892939_2938338435714611583_n.jpg

Todays goals achieved.

Now to pick a battery, take measurements and find a nice hidden place to mount it.
Excuse the dusty seats and debris on the carpet...#WorkingHere :grd: .
 
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Looking like i'd be running the positive and negative off the battery under the AT4 and coming up thru a grommet in the hatch area to connect to battery 2.
 
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Switching gears a bit. Going with this Lithium as it can be dropped in with an existing AGM and SUPER small/light so I can hide in the back.


Hope to be ordering in the next few days w/charger. Then its GO time!
 
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Progress:
Picked up an D4S LTO battery over the weekend.
Mocked up a piece of wood to mount the Amp/LC2/LTO. Can mount these under the seat as expected....3rd row wont fold down if mounted there.
Ran my 0GA from front stock battery (w/inline fuse) to the back area.
Remote wire ready

To Do:
Run Negative from front to back
Tap into Bose for Sub signal
Purchase Lithium battery charger

Taking a bit long than expected...but life happens.
 

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