2500 Burb or Yukon XL

[DavenFla]

First post. I see there's another thread about "purchase options" but I don't want to step on anyone's toes and take over the thread.

Bit of a background. I'm a big Ford Excursion guy and I'm doing a major update project on my 02 Ex. Cummins swap (possible, still have the 7.3 PSD) , Allison Trans, updated body and late model suspension swap... in other words building a newish/ updated modern Ex. The reason why I'm here is I need a similar vehicle for travel, family and towing while this project is underway. The Burb/GMC 2500 is similar in many ways... so here I am looking to get edumacated. Do not want a 1500.

I looking at the 2010-13 low mileage 2500 model (less than 150K) and prices seem consistent, so that's not my issue, but rather what do the owners/user know that I don't. I have no issue traveling to buy a truck. Definitely do not want a rusty undercarriage, so southern trucks are on my radar. Not a fan of black interiors or black paint since I'm in Florida. I despise little problems that leave you on the side of the road so I'm always willing to be proactive in replacing/upgrading parts.

How about some wisdom for a fellow gear head. Thanks in advanced.

 

[mikez71]

They seem to all be 6.0? I though some yukons had 6.2...

Differences between yuk/burb probably purely cosmetic. ?

 

[intheburbs]

Not quite sure what you're asking, other than potential "known issues" or that kind of thing.

The powertrain is solid. I'd even say bomb-proof. Only reason my 08 has ever left me on the side of the road is because I ran it out of gas. They get thirsty when towing, and the "distance to empty" function is not always accurate. The "fuel used" function is much more accurate, almost dead-nuts.

Watch for low oil pressure - the o-ring on the pump pickup is a known issue and can cause low/no pressure. Ask me how I know.

Biggest thing I'm looking for in a used one of these is rust, leaks and service records. Not just leaks on rotating bits but leaking/weeping cooler lines and high-pressure hoses/fittings. Change the fluids regularly and they last a long time.

Check the A/C system. Upside, it uses its own belt. Compressor is a known issue. These things have two evaporators - there's refrigerant lines running to the rear cargo area.

Minor things - cracked dashboard, rear defroster clips breaking off, interior door handles peeling chrome, power door lock actuators.

My 2008 has been remarkably trouble-free and durable. Most of the powertrain and suspension bits are original and I have 260k miles on it.

Yukon maybe has a 6.2? Suburban maybe 5.3?
Someone else here should know forsure...

Negative. All 2500s have the 6.0.

 

[DavenFla]

Exactly the info I'm looking for. Thanks

 

[swathdiver]

First post. I see there's another thread about "purchase options" but I don't want to step on anyone's toes and take over the thread.

Bit of a background. I'm a big Ford Excursion guy and I'm doing a major update project on my 02 Ex. Cummins swap (possible, still have the 7.3 PSD) , Allison Trans, updated body and late model suspension swap... in other words building a newish/ updated modern Ex. The reason why I'm here is I need a similar vehicle for travel, family and towing while this project is underway. The Burb/GMC 2500 is similar in many ways... so here I am looking to get edumacated. Do not want a 1500.

I looking at the 2010-13 low mileage 2500 model (less than 150K) and prices seem consistent, so that's not my issue, but rather what do the owners/user know that I don't. I have no issue traveling to buy a truck. Definitely do not want a rusty undercarriage, so southern trucks are on my radar. Not a fan of black interiors or black paint since I'm in Florida. I despise little problems that leave you on the side of the road so I'm always willing to be proactive in replacing/upgrading parts.

How about some wisdom for a fellow gear head. Thanks in advanced.

Look for a Duraburb conversion (Made in Sanford), a Yukon or Suburban with the 6.6 DirtyMax and 6-speed Allison 1000.

All of the GMT900 2500s are built on the pre-2011 chassis and have either the LY6 (2007-2009) or L96 6.0 LS engines. The 2007s had the 4L80 4-speed, the newer ones the 6L90 with 1415 u-joints out back and 3.73 gears with the AAM 10.5 full floater rear axle. The gearing is a might steeper than the Allison's.

The 2012 and 2013 had all the towing software improvements, Hill Start Assist, Trailer Sway Control, Powertrain Grade Braking, Normal Mode (2013).

The integrated trailer brake controller (JL1) is a must have for me.

Just so you know, these 2500s have two fuel tanks that act seamlessly as one. Main tank is 26 gallons and 11.5 gallon 2nd is above spare tire with its own fuel pump.

You'll find these LS engines and GM engineering much more home mechanic friendly.

 

[DavenFla]

Look for a Duraburb conversion (Made in Sanford), a Yukon or Suburban with the 6.6 DirtyMax and 6-speed Allison 1000.

All of the GMT900 2500s are built on the pre-2011 chassis and have either the LY6 (2007-2009) or L96 6.0 LS engines. The 2007s had the 4L80 4-speed, the newer ones the 6L90 with 1415 u-joints out back and 3.73 gears with the AAM 10.5 full floater rear axle. The gearing is a might steeper than the Allison's.

The 2012 and 2013 had all the towing software improvements, Hill Start Assist, Trailer Sway Control, Powertrain Grade Braking, Normal Mode (2013).

The integrated trailer brake controller (JL1) is a must have for me.

Just so you know, these 2500s have two fuel tanks that act seamlessly as one. Main tank is 26 gallons and 11.5 gallon 2nd is above spare tire with its own fuel pump.

You'll find these LS engines and GM engineering much more home mechanic friendly.

Not looking to buy a Suburban Conversion, just a 3/4 ton 6.0 gas Burb to fill in, while I'm doing my own Excursion conversion... so I'm gonna be sticking with my project.

Let me ask, and just looking for opinions. The assumption is similar vehicle, model year 2010-13, 2500, 1 or 2 owner vehicle, good service records no major damage, paint and interior both in good shape, minimal rust, etc, etc. etc.... in other words the only significant difference is mileage. So ... is it worth it to spend $20-25K on a low mileage (under 100K) 2500 vs half the cost 10-15K on a high mileage (185K+)? Engine or transmission, do they both last on an equal basis? tranny goes before engine? engine before tranny?

I leaning toward low mileage, but I'm all ears and will to listen to opinions. Not looking for another project while I'm balls deep into a different one.

 

[swathdiver]

Not looking to buy a Suburban Conversion, just a 3/4 ton 6.0 gas Burb to fill in, while I'm doing my own Excursion conversion... so I'm gonna be sticking with my project.

Let me ask, and just looking for opinions. The assumption is similar vehicle, model year 2010-13, 2500, 1 or 2 owner vehicle, good service records no major damage, paint and interior both in good shape, minimal rust, etc, etc. etc.... in other words the only significant difference is mileage. So ... is it worth it to spend $20-25K on a low mileage (under 100K) 2500 vs half the cost 10-15K on a high mileage (185K+)? Engine or transmission, do they both last on an equal basis? tranny goes before engine? engine before tranny?

I leaning toward low mileage, but I'm all ears and will to listen to opinions. Not looking for another project while I'm balls deep into a different one.

I mentioned the Duraburbs because you might find one in your price range and if done by the company in Sanford, it's a professional conversion that works just it should from the factory.

I've done both and preferred buying the lower mileage vehicle.

Generally speaking the transmissions wear out before the engine.

Which Cummins engine are you wanting to swap into your Excursion?

 

[intheburbs]

Not looking to buy a Suburban Conversion, just a 3/4 ton 6.0 gas Burb to fill in, while I'm doing my own Excursion conversion... so I'm gonna be sticking with my project.

Let me ask, and just looking for opinions. The assumption is similar vehicle, model year 2010-13, 2500, 1 or 2 owner vehicle, good service records no major damage, paint and interior both in good shape, minimal rust, etc, etc. etc.... in other words the only significant difference is mileage. So ... is it worth it to spend $20-25K on a low mileage (under 100K) 2500 vs half the cost 10-15K on a high mileage (185K+)? Engine or transmission, do they both last on an equal basis? tranny goes before engine? engine before tranny?

I leaning toward low mileage, but I'm all ears and will to listen to opinions. Not looking for another project while I'm balls deep into a different one.

A well-maintained high mileage unit will still be reliable.

I just beat the snot out of mine on a 5000-mile road trip over two and a half weeks, and it never skipped a beat. Pulling an 8,000-lb through the Rockies, including a day with 50 miles of off road frame-scraping. 260k on the odo now.

Epic road trip after action report - high-mileage 2500, 35-foot trailer, in the Rockies

Teasers... I'll post more once I get back in front of a computer. 2008 2500 with 255k miles Zero mechanical issues encountered 5,000 miles driven in 16 days 35-foot, 8,000-lb trailer Multiple Continental Divide crossings including Powder River Pass (9,666') and the Eisenhower Tunnel (11,100')...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[DavenFla]

I mentioned the Duraburbs because you might find one in your price range and if done by the company in Sanford, it's a professional conversion that works just it should from the factory.

I've done both and preferred buying the lower mileage vehicle.

Generally speaking the transmissions wear out before the engine.

Which Cummins engine are you wanting to swap into your Excursion?

I already have a 12 valve, but I'm leaning towards the 24 valve with a p-pump and putting an Allison 6 speed from CA conversions... although I may just keep the 7.3 and do the Allison.

 

[Bigburb3500]

Another option, depending on overall budget and willingness to drive is a 2015-2018 Suburban 1-ton. Check out my thread on here about them. There are a few out there on market, mostly lower trim models but a few LTs come up. Again, as it has already been said, it’s a proven drivetrain. 6.0 with 6L90 trans.
High mileage and cheaper with decent service records I would not shy away from. I used to have an early 2000s 2500 and it was at 250k+ and it was abused. Transmission eventually grenades itself but that is another story and the 4L80 is a good trans. Reliability was due to previous owner neglect..