about20ninj45
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Some onec take a video of this because I'm confused as hell
2nd Row Rear bucket Seat 2005 XL
- Thread starter SnowBuck
- Start date
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OP
OP
SnowBuck
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FIXED IT!!! Went to the junkyard = 12 Grand Cherokees...NO Suburbans/Tahoes! But after spending all afternoon trying different ideas - got it.
Problem was one of the three cables kept popping out 'cause that black plastic piece broke on top. Carefully drilled a hole with my smallest bit and slowly screwed in a small screw & washer to hold it in. Mostly works now 'cept that cable hits the cover as it extends backward and sometime it won't work!!
Problem was one of the three cables kept popping out 'cause that black plastic piece broke on top. Carefully drilled a hole with my smallest bit and slowly screwed in a small screw & washer to hold it in. Mostly works now 'cept that cable hits the cover as it extends backward and sometime it won't work!!
How did you get the driver side bucket seat to fold down? I went under mine and saw no cabels and figured the dumbass previous owenrs had removed them or something. My plastic levers rounded off, did you have that problem? I think the metal underneath is rusty and causing problems, I can't figure out why the back won't go down
adventurenali92
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My buckets don't have the little lever on the backside of the seat. Just the handle on the side and the pull tab in the middle of the lower seat cushion. Couldn't get it to slide forward.
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SnowBuck
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Driver side 2nd row bucket does not slide forward...has no mechanism.
Passenger side 2nd row bucket sliding is caused when you tilt the seat back forward using the release handle on the outside of the seat and press down a little on the seat back. See my pic for details on the mechanism.
TuckerFan48
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SnowBuck you are my hero. Thanks for the great suggestion. After searching 3 salvage yards and finding 5 Suburbans that were all broke in the exact same place I came home and began searching the internet. Somehow I stumbled on your post.
With nothing to lose, I tried your fix. It worked perfect.
I used a 5/64 drill bit and drilled the hole in the thicker part of the plastic piece, just above where the cable sets in it. Then I inserted a #4 x 3/8" metal screw with a pan Phillips head and a #4 x 9/16 washer into the hole I drilled. Holding the cable in place I tightened the screw down to where it rested on top of the cable stem. I was careful not to over tighten the screw and I tightened it by hand so it would not strip or snap the plastic.
The entire fix process took less than two minutes. Figuring out what size drill bit, screw, and washer took about a half hour to locate.
This was a great suggestion for what appears to be a common problem. To replace the part with a new one is several hundred dollars. Finding a good one in an auto salvage yard is not likely. Using this fix will cost less than 1 dollar and less take two minutes. That's a good fix.
Thanks SnowBuck !
With nothing to lose, I tried your fix. It worked perfect.
I used a 5/64 drill bit and drilled the hole in the thicker part of the plastic piece, just above where the cable sets in it. Then I inserted a #4 x 3/8" metal screw with a pan Phillips head and a #4 x 9/16 washer into the hole I drilled. Holding the cable in place I tightened the screw down to where it rested on top of the cable stem. I was careful not to over tighten the screw and I tightened it by hand so it would not strip or snap the plastic.
The entire fix process took less than two minutes. Figuring out what size drill bit, screw, and washer took about a half hour to locate.
This was a great suggestion for what appears to be a common problem. To replace the part with a new one is several hundred dollars. Finding a good one in an auto salvage yard is not likely. Using this fix will cost less than 1 dollar and less take two minutes. That's a good fix.
Thanks SnowBuck !
