3 way connector for LED/fog wiring

[4WDTRK]

I'm starting to plan to add a 20" LED light bar to the front of my truck. This would be mounted to a push/bull bar. Is there a 3 way connector available to bridge into the current fog light circuit or what would be the best way to wire this? Thanks!

 

[4WDTRK]

Just to add a bit more info...I really didn't want to install another switch on the dash. I want to use the existing factory fog switch.

 

[4WDTRK]

I think I found what I'm after, just need the female pigtail for my LED bar and it should make for a tidy plug and play.

 

[Jonrobinson84]

What is this pigtail called that you found? Do you have a link?

 

[BeenChevy]

How many watts is your 20" bar? I'd still run it to a relay and tug current from the battery.

 

[4WDTRK]

How many watts is your 20" bar? I'd still run it to a relay and tug current from the battery.

Thanks for your input! The bar I'm considering is 126W. Do you think I should still run a separate circuit? I'm not opposed to the idea if it makes sense and the more I think about it I like the idea of having a separate switch.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[bzpilot]

Yeah, with that light bar you'd be pushing the fog lamp circuit to it's max (by just tapping into it).

The factory fog lamp bulbs are 26w.

26w / 12.5v = 2.08 amps x 2 = 4.08 amps

That light bar at 126w.

126w / 12.5v = 10.08 amps

For a total of 14.16 amps on a 15 amp circuit.

That would probably cause you issues of blowing fuses before too long. Then, if you ever went to aftermarket LED fog lamps which typically come in 30w, 50w, and 80w (a piece), you'd be further in trouble.

 

[BeenChevy]

A separate switch to control the bar is the only way to go in my opinion. Could also tap the hot wire of one fog lamp or better yet one of your hi lights to the 86 pin of your relay and not need a switch in your cab but you should certainly run that same relay to the battery and ground and add an interior switch later.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Fleece's All-High board would turn your lows on with your highs, as well as your fogs, even if they aren't already on. You can also solder an extra tab on the board to provide a trigger for a relay to run to your light bar. All you have to do to be able to NOT run the light bar whenever you flip your highs on is to interrupt the signal to the relay, by means of a switch inside the cab.

I have the Fleece board, and love it. I have my 32" light bar pulling power directly from my battery, but my switch is independent of the high beams.

 

[4WDTRK]

Yeah, with that light bar you'd be pushing the fog lamp circuit to it's max (by just tapping into it).

The factory fog lamp bulbs are 26w.

26w / 12.5v = 2.08 amps x 2 = 4.08 amps

That light bar at 126w.

126w / 12.5v = 10.08 amps

For a total of 14.16 amps on a 15 amp circuit.

That would probably cause you issues of blowing fuses before too long. Then, if you ever went to aftermarket LED fog lamps which typically come in 30w, 50w, and 80w (a piece), you'd be further in trouble.

Great info! You've helped me to really rethink this and avoid pitfalls.