4 Piston Big Brake Upgrade from 2019-20

[tRidiot]

I've got this caliper here... I'm not gonna have time or inclination to pull my wheel off anytime soon to measure, but eyeballing, it looks fine.

Who's next?

 

[SRQYukon]

Sorry I thought maybe you got lost, legit my phone does this endless scroll thing and I miss stuff in threads.

Anyway i guess I dint know what else I'd take a pic of, the calipers look sexy but they really only look cool from the face. The mounting and all is the same and the spacing with the washers is pretty self explanatory.

I did take them apart again to inspect the pads and rotors which look fantastic. It's very important to do a proper break in and get everything embedded together. Red loctite is a biotch to break free when it's only a week old lol.

I agree with the non linear thing. They do feel better and better the harder you push. I'm glad they aren't crazy sensitive though. I will say it's almost difficult to bring myself to fully apply the brake knowing how violent they stop. On one of my test passes I had my laptop hooked up in the passenger seat and it ended up nearly behind the AC stuff under the dash. Thank God it didn't break again.

Here's the only other picture I have that I haven't posted.

View attachment 280738

I see from the photos that DantheMan has drilled and slotted rotors, but I never saw a post says which ones were used. Stoptech, R1? I getting ready to start my upgrade and I don't want to use stock GM smooth rotors since I do a lot of towing. Anybody feel like to sharing the aftermarket version you used for the 2000-2006 conversion. I'm talking about the one that started this thread. Early on someone posted all of the GM part #s, which was great. But when I try to cross-reference the GM parts to aftermarket rotors, things get a little fuzzy. I believe the R1 Concepts #s are 821-47080(R&L), but I don't see any others called out by those that have already completed this upgrade.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I see from the photos that DantheMan has drilled and slotted rotors, but I never saw a post says which ones were used. Stoptech, R1? I getting ready to start my upgrade and I don't want to use stock GM smooth rotors since I do a lot of towing. Anybody feel like to sharing the aftermarket version you used for the 2000-2006 conversion. I'm talking about the one that started this thread. Early on someone posted all of the GM part #s, which was great. But when I try to cross-reference the GM parts to aftermarket rotors, things get a little fuzzy. I believe the R1 Concepts #s are 821-47080(R&L), but I don't see any others called out by those that have already completed this upgrade.

I used R1 just to try something different, I typically use power stop for everything and have never been disappointed by them. So far so good with these R1s give me a bit to dig through emails and I'll find you the part number. Not sure how much the slotted and drilled does for fading and heat but I think they look cool so that's why I got them

 

[SRQYukon]

I used R1 just to try something different, I typically use power stop for everything and have never been disappointed by them. So far so good with these R1s give me a bit to dig through emails and I'll find you the part number. Not sure how much the slotted and drilled does for fading and heat but I think they look cool so that's why I got them

View attachment 305054

Thanks, Dantheman. I think the part #s for the R1 is the only one posted in this thread (820-47080R and 820-47080L). I'm not sure about the use of drilled and slotted rotors for normal driving, but I run them for towing. Until I changed to drilled and slotted, I was warping a set of rotors after 20,000 miles. After the originals and one replacement GM set, I changed to the d&s. My current stock-sized drilled and slotted rotors have over 120,000 miles and still run true.
Has anybody used a StopTech or other aftermarket drilled and/or slotted replacement for GM part #13514522?

 

[SRQYukon]

Thanks, Dantheman. I think the part #s for the R1 is the only one posted in this thread (820-47080R and 820-47080L). I'm not sure about the use of drilled and slotted rotors for normal driving, but I run them for towing. Until I changed to drilled and slotted, I was warping a set of rotors after 20,000 miles. After the originals and one replacement GM set, I changed to the d&s. My current stock-sized drilled and slotted rotors have over 120,000 miles and still run true.
Has anybody used a StopTech or other aftermarket drilled and/or slotted replacement for GM part #13514522?

I used R1 just to try something different, I typically use power stop for everything and have never been disappointed by them. So far so good with these R1s give me a bit to dig through emails and I'll find you the part number. Not sure how much the slotted and drilled does for fading and heat but I think they look cool so that's why I got them

View attachment 305054

Sorry, I didn't notice you had the part number on the image of your order. Now I see that your part number is one digit different than the one previously posted. Guess I'll end up contacting them to verify part #, if I go with theirs since they don't show the part numbers on their website.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Sorry, I didn't notice you had the part number on the image of your order. Now I see that your part number is one digit different than the one previously posted. Guess I'll end up contacting them to verify part #, if I go with theirs since they don't show the part numbers on their website.

I noticed that when I went looking for that number, their site is super unfriendly in a lot of ways. The main thing to verify is that they are 13.5" rotors and obviously 6 lug lol.

 

[SRQYukon]

I noticed that when I went looking for that number, their site is super unfriendly in a lot of ways. The main thing to verify is that they are 13.5" rotors and obviously 6 lug lol.

Yeah, I did finally find it. You have to click-thru a bunch of selections before you can see the part numbers. I went ahead and ordered them yesterday since they had a 30% father's day deal. Saved me $100 for basically the same items you ordered. I'm just going with the stock GM calipers from Summit and Goodridge brake lines from BuyBrakes.com. I don't recall anyone mentioning replacing the dust/splash shields. Is that necessary or recommended?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Yeah, I did finally find it. You have to click-thru a bunch of selections before you can see the part numbers. I went ahead and ordered them yesterday since they had a 30% father's day deal. Saved me $100 for basically the same items you ordered. I'm just going with the stock GM calipers from Summit and Goodridge brake lines from BuyBrakes.com. I don't recall anyone mentioning replacing the dust/splash shields. Is that necessary or recommended?

Those good ridge lines seemed nicer than my stop techs. I used the factory splash shield with no issues.

 

[the_tool_man]

Thanks, Dantheman. I think the part #s for the R1 is the only one posted in this thread (820-47080R and 820-47080L). I'm not sure about the use of drilled and slotted rotors for normal driving, but I run them for towing. Until I changed to drilled and slotted, I was warping a set of rotors after 20,000 miles. After the originals and one replacement GM set, I changed to the d&s. My current stock-sized drilled and slotted rotors have over 120,000 miles and still run true.
Has anybody used a StopTech or other aftermarket drilled and/or slotted replacement for GM part #13514522?

Not on my Yukon, but the Mustang I used to have warped stock rotors in no time. I had a set cryo-treated, and they never warped. After that, I started buying aftermarket rotors from brakeperformance.com, which are cryo-treated. They offer plain, drilled, slotted or both. I use them on everything, even my wife's Camry. My Yukon is about ready for rotors, and will get this brand. I'm just waiting to make a decision on whether or not to upgrade to the '20-21 brakes first.

 

[SRQYukon]

Okay, so I pulled the trigger on the next upgrade. The 4-piston brakes are just part of it. I went with the R1 Concepts drilled and slotted rotors & pads AC Delco calipers from Summit. While everything is torn down, I'm doing the front t-bar delete with a new Viking Coilover setup from Atomic Fab, and poly sway bar and end-link bushings from Energy Suspension. I have a 2/3 drop from 7 years ago, with a fairly good ride, since it was done with drop spindles. But I think the ride and handling will still be much improved with coilovers. Rear gets new drilled and slotted rotors and Raybestos calipers. New Goodridge SS lines all around. At the same time, my 1-year old ATK reman differential is being replaced under warranty. It started having a vibration when making turns at 1000 miles and I just never got around to making a claim. I was disappointed that it was defective, but I have to applaud ATKs customer service and warranty. A quick phone call with my mileage and VIN and they shipped the replacement the same day. They contacted the shop to verify my issues and they'll pay $50 per hour of the reinstall. Looks like it will cost me $150-200 out-of-pocket, which I'm fine with. After all, I got to 9000 miles of use from the defective one. I'm just glad I didn't do the DIY install or I'd have to take another 4-hours of my time to re-install. Total expense should be around $2300 with me doing the labor (except rear-end and rear brakes). Figured I'd have the shop go ahead with the new rear brakes since they're removing the rear-end anyway. This is a one-owner truck with 213K miles. So IMHO it is worth it. Probably be a couple of weeks before everything arrives and I can get started.