5.7 spider install question

[Psaund]

Hi all. This is my first post. Trying to install a new injector spider on my 2000 Tahoe Z71 5.7.
I'm having problems getting the housing up through the upper manifold. I've tried 3 times it just won't go. I've used spray lube, vasaline, and oil. On the bench without the seal it is also a tight fit. The the seal that was on the old spider was pinched and torn in spots.
Any tips,tricks or suggestions would be a great help.
Regards Paul

 

[bigfootchiro]

Hi Paul!

Are you talking about the gasket around the spider as it goes up through the upper plenum? If so, when you're putting the upper plenum back over the spider, it will not push all the way down until you put the bolts back on the plenum and tighten them down. It is meant to do that to maintain a tight seal, so no vacuum is lost. When tightening down the plenum bolts, make sure you tighten down in an opposite pattern like you would when you torque lug nuts, so that everything seals properly and you do not crack the plastic. Hope this helps!

 

[Psaund]

Thanks for the reply. I knew that was an option. When I've tried things like that before it usually doesn't end well for me

Thanks again. Paul

 

[Psaund]

Thanks Bigfoot. I made sure everything clean and well lubed. And it went together as you said.
BTW. For anyone interested.
I used ACDelco kit 217-3029 from amazon. It had every needed. + 1 day free delivery. The pvc elbow broke, amazon had it also. Valve, pipe and elbow w/1day delivery.
It seemed to fix a lot of that were getting worse over the years. Hard starting cold. No power. Stalling. Misfire under load.
All is good now. Thank again.
Paul

 

[bigfootchiro]

Anytime Paul! Glad I could help you out.

 

[rotor]

Hi Paul!

Are you talking about the gasket around the spider as it goes up through the upper plenum? If so, when you're putting the upper plenum back over the spider, it will not push all the way down until you put the bolts back on the plenum and tighten them down. It is meant to do that to maintain a tight seal, so no vacuum is lost. When tightening down the plenum bolts, make sure you tighten down in an opposite pattern like you would when you torque lug nuts, so that everything seals properly and you do not crack the plastic. Hope this helps!

Nathan I am going to do my 1997 Tahoe 5.7 spider original CFI to Multi-port I am going to removed the intake manifold as to change out the seals and much easier to install spider on the bench after cleaning manifold and plenum..you views and suggestions before I begin..watched and made notes ... any advice before I start... in the past I have removed the fan and housing as to get my feet in and work seated and infront...one fellow says to lower front end take off front tires and lower?...Rotor Ron..helicopter mechanic

 

[Baden]

..one fellow says to lower front end take off front tires and lower?

Assuming they said to do this so that they can work on it from a bucket or a ladder from the front of the vehicle and not have to be in the engine bay. I don't see a need to remove any unnecessary items unless you want to, it really is a straight forward removal and install.

If you are pulling the upper and lower intake/plenum (like you mentioned) the only thing I would suggest is a couple of dowels or empty pens to line up the lower manifold when you lower in back into position. Also, make sure to mark where the dizzy is prior to pulling the lower manifold (again, if you are doing it this way) that way when re-assembling you don't have to try and go off of memory and have issues getting it started back up once you are done.

If you have any timing issues when you put it all back together (after pulling the dizzy) you'll need to take it to a dealer to get it timed properly. But, if you do a diligent job marking it prior to removing it, you shouldn't have any issues with this.

 

[bigfootchiro]

Nathan I am going to do my 1997 Tahoe 5.7 spider original CFI to Multi-port I am going to removed the intake manifold as to change out the seals and much easier to install spider on the bench after cleaning manifold and plenum..you views and suggestions before I begin..watched and made notes ... any advice before I start... in the past I have removed the fan and housing as to get my feet in and work seated and infront...one fellow says to lower front end take off front tires and lower?...Rotor Ron..helicopter mechanic

What Baden said. You do not need to remove all of those unnecessary parts. The hardest part is pulling your harness off the plenum and remembering where everything goes. A couple things that made it easier was removing the plug wires off the distributor, using a magnetic pick-up tool for the bolt that holds down the fuel lines behind the intake (you don't NEED one, but sure makes it easier). Also, spray some liquid silicone or WD40 on the injector lines as they come out of the housing. Take a pair of needle nose pliers and gently turn the lines so 4 are pointing length-wise away from the housing, and the other 4 point in the opposite direction length-wise. Take lots of pictures, and remember, when you are putting the wiring back on after install, the wires typically take a path of least resistance, so if you are forcing a plug or wire, something isn't where it should be. You may want to change out the PCV valve while you're at it, just for maintenance. They are cheap on Amazon. Also, don't forget to tighten/torque bolts in opposite fashion like you would lug nuts. It's more of a tedious and lengthy process than difficult.

 

[east302]

any advice before I start... in the past I have removed the fan and housing as to get my feet in and work seated and infront...

I'm pretty sure I left the fan and shroud on. It gives you something to lie down on when messing with the distributor.

Three things...

1. When you fold the a/c compressor over to the passenger side, make sure you disconnect the refrigerant hoses from the plastic clamp at the alternator. I didn't and snapped one of my lines open.

2. Don't forget to reinstall the little o-rings on the fuel lines where they connect to the injector assembly near the firewall.

3. Do you have an android phone or tablet? You can use an app (DashCommand or CarGaugePro) with an OBD2 Bluetooth adapter to set the CMP retard after reinstalling the distributor. It's maybe $50 total and gives you all sorts of other useful information that you can use down the road.

You'll like the MPFI. It made a noticeable difference in throttle response on my 98.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bigfootchiro]

I use DashCommand. Works pretty well.