6.2L L94 & 6L80 into my 1992 Blazer

[Nak]

need more gauges and data output.

Not sure if you're being serious or sarcastic...

Anyways, I've come to this design because it's what I can take in in a single glance. The clock is a different color, because it helps me ignore it unless I'm specifically looking for the time. The four upper gauges all point to 12:00 if they are at normal operating condition. The speedometer can also be taken in at a glance along with the upper four gauges. On highways around here I expect to see slightly left of vertical. On the freeways I expect to see slightly right of vertical. The blue light right below Instant MPG allows me to take in V4 Mode and I MPG in a single glance. Important because I'm tuning when V4 mode kicks in for optimum mileage and driveability. Large warning lights catch my attention and draw my eyes right to the gauge. Likewise, when the gauge goes to a warning condition a digital readout is added to the gauge so I know exactly what's going on.

The fuel gauge is calibrated as close as I could get it. Above 26 gallons all you know is that it's above 26 gallons. (The sender tops out at 26.5 gallons usable fuel.) Below that it's dead on accurate on level ground. if my gauge says 12.6 gallons, it takes 17.4 gallons to fill it up. The tank holds 31.5 gallons, of which 1.5 gallons is unusable. I know, because I filled the tank bit by bit and read the sensor readings with HPTuners when new. Zero gallons on the gauge leaves 1.5 gallons in the tank, but the pump can't draw at that level so we consider that to be zero. Topped off is 31.5 gallons - the unusable 1.5 gallons leaves a capacity of 30 gallons.

I guess gauges and their proper display are important to me as reading them instantly is important to what I do for a living. A properly designed gauge cluster allows you to glance down, look back outside immediately and interpret what you saw while looking outside. This design allows me to do just that. That's why information is grouped and displayed the way it is. Making changes and seeing how well it worked while driving allowed me to fine tune the design.

I will be adding more data, but it will be accessed via touch. I'll have multiple screens available with instruments like inclinometers, STFTs and LTFTs, injector pulse width, performance readouts, etc. The idea will be that off road you'll select a dash that is tailored to driving off road, the same for on the track or towing.

 

[SunlitComet]

both. i always like to have more sensor data. that way i can catch a glitch the moment it happens and also allows me to perform immediate diagnosis.

 

[Nak]

both. i always like to have more sensor data. that way i can catch a glitch the moment it happens and also allows me to perform immediate diagnosis.

Too much info and you can't absorb it without taking your mind off the road. Of course, it's easy to put warnings in the background with this dash... What data would you add?

 

[SunlitComet]

i can. ect, map, maf, tps, fuel flow, engine load and torque, tranny temp, in depth trip computer stuff for now.

 

[Nak]

Tranny temp is already there--upper right, as is ECT in the upper left. . MAF, MAP, and Fuel Flow will be on the diagnostic page when needed. By tracking I MPG and A MPG you know all of those are good. If "I MPG" drops off suddenly for the conditions hit the diagnostic page for in depth readings. Engine load and torque will be on both the "Tow" page and the "Track" page. TPS I had up initially while tuning V4 mode. Good for that, but pretty much useless day to day. It'll be on the diagnostics page, but it doesn't tell you a lot with DBW. The ECM is going to put the throttle where it wants it. You don't command throttle position with your foot, you command power output. The ECM decides how best to deliver that power. It can vary cam timing, spark timing, fuel flow, v4 mode, and even throttle position to deliver the power requested.

BTW, fuel flow is calculated not measured. It could be very misleading trying to diagnose a problem using fuel flow. What I do is track "A MPG" per tank. compare at fill up to verify. If the numbers match, you're good. if they don't you have a problem. I'll be adding a "fuel used" readout to simplify that. If "Fuel Used" added to "Fuel" remaining = 30, you're good. If it drifts, you have a problem. That's one of the reasons I calibrated my fuel tank precisely. Of course, I also like knowing precisely how much fuel I have.

 

[SunlitComet]

ect or the temp from the sensor that feed the oem dash gauge? i know abot the calculated reading i just really did not want to type all the crap out. i expect most people here now would understand how that stuff works with all the info i put into this site. in other words i think you guys are smart enough to know what i meant. and it sounds like you have more data available so that is good. oh and ignition timing is another one to have. the fuel flow i use not just to measure flow but also see coasting deactivation kick in and out.

 

[Nak]

ect or the temp from the sensor that feed the oem dash gauge? i

??? I assume by ECT you mean Engine coolant Temperature? So yes, the upper left gauge shows the stock sensor. All of the gauges show what the ECM is seeing, as the ECM is supplying the data. "I MPG" shows the DFCO kick in as well, and is useful for other things too.

Anyways, the neat thing is that Flat panel dashes can be customized for whatever layout and data the user wants to see. I want to see "I MPG", so that's in my dash. You want Fuel Flow? You can have your dash show that instead. Everybody gets what they want. That flexibility just can't be found in a standard dash--OEM or aftermarket.

 

[SunlitComet]

been wanting to ask how fast does this dash boot up? if it is not as fast as turning the key on that is a big turn off as you can't monitor start up. also do the needles move as fast and smoothly as the real thing?

 

[Nak]

Great question!!! Bluetooth is not fast enough. It's too slow to connect, too slow for the needles. really, the needles are completely usable, but a little too notchy to be attractive. USB solves these issues. Too many wires for hanging on a bracket, but once it's permanently mounted, no problem with the wires behind the cluster hidden in the dash. I use "Autosleeper" to start up and shut down the dash. When permanently mounted it will power up the dash as soon as you open the door, so it will be near as fast as regular gauges. Still not fast enough for my tastes though. I'll be including a mechanical idiot light for oil pressure. If the light goes out, you're safe to wait a few seconds for the gauges. If it doesn't go out, shut her down! Oil pressure is the only thing on startup that is critical for the first few seconds, so this approach should work fine. Plus, that gives you redundant oil pressure monitoring at all times.

That's why I'm going to start a separate thread on Flat panel gauge clusters. There's an awful lot to consider when going to this for a primary display. Far too much for this thread; it really needs it's own thread. Anyways, maybe leave your input till I start that thread? Your questions and answers will be invaluable in that thread, as a lot of people may use it as a reference for similar endeavors. This thread thread is really about swapping LS motors into the best Blazers ever made!

 

[xanatost]

What software are you using for the gages? Is it EFI LIve??

BTW dam good work