9.5SF Swap

[Dantheman1540]

if the axle does come with the backing plates, rotor, caliper it all should work. brake line may need to be adapter but i think its pretty common upgrade from gmt800>gmt900 brakes so might work. but yea most scrap yards will pull the calipers, cause thats 50c worth of aluminum scrap!, instead of just leaving them on - when my axle came they cut the brake line also so i had to transfer the one from my 10bolt over

How did I not realize the calipers were aluminum!? lol

 

[Tonyrodz]

Another thing I've heard is the bigger GMT900 brakes throws off the brake bias and makes the rear want to lock up requiring a new proportioning valve. I believe I read that about pickup trucks not SUVs but its still possible. To me it was really about using what I had.

And aren't the rear brakes on the 900's actually smaller then the 800's?

 

[Dantheman1540]

And aren't the rear brakes on the 900's actually smaller then the 800's?

The inner diameter of the GMT900 rotor is larger. Can't comment on any other part other brake system tho.

 

[Dantheman1540]

 

[Tonyrodz]

View attachment 246941 View attachment 246942 View attachment 246943 View attachment 246944

That the new rear??

 

[Dantheman1540]

That the new rear??

Yes sir it is

 

[randeez]

was that the convertible ujoint from 1310 to 1350?
go non-greasable joint... if you dont trust the oem yoke i think a few manufacturers make them... check spicer, moser, strange, yukon

 

[Dantheman1540]

was that the convertible ujoint from 1310 to 1350?
go non-greasable joint... if you dont trust the oem yoke i think a few manufacturers make them... check spicer, moser, strange, yukon

Yep the conversion thingy. It was greasable which was really the only one I could find in stock at the time but I think the yoke broke first.

A buddy's theory which makes sense is that at the junk yard the axle was likely dropped on the yoke causing a micro crack. It did appear to have been drug on concrete a time or two because the OEM diff cover was all bent up on the bottom when I got it. So makes sense. I'm gonna go get whatever yoke and U joint that is in stock at Advanced Driveline down town. Hopefully an upgraded yoke and non greasable joint. I'd pull the shaft and have it redone for a 1350 so I can run a straight 1350 but the shop is several weeks backed up.

 

[Dantheman1540]

My buddy is actually gonna throw a yoke and U joint in it tomorrow while I'm at work. Hopefully tomorrow I can do the same thing except I'll spritz the tires with some tire shine to help lesson the initial impact of the clutch dump. I'll also cross my toes and hope the new stuff stays together.


Also since my powder coat buddy is so great I'll throw out a shameless plug for anyone in the Orlando area.

Luxury Choice Powders is seriously the best shop I've ever worked with. Met the owner at a gas station because I noticed his avalanche engine block was powder coated. He said he owned a powder coat shop and I gave him a try. That was a year or so ago. I have had him ceramic coat headers and firearms, powder fuel rails, suspension parts, wheels and just about everything in between. His prices are without a doubt 20% lower than any other place I've talked to and his work is truly too notch. One time a golf cart wheel I had powdered ended up getting a scratch about the size of a fingernail clipping on the backside of the wheel while he was reinstalling the tires for free. He offered to completely repowder the wheel for free right then or anytime in the future.

Long story short we are only friends because hes one of the few business owners I've ever met who stands by their word and does everything he can to make the customer happy. So go check him out on Instagram at luxury_choice_powders or message me and I can give you his number.

Mods please delete this if it breaks the rules.

 

[swathdiver]

+2 on what Randy said! Go solid.