99 4wd yukon replacing tranny help

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SunlitComet

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NO! NO! NO! use baking soda and water. coke is bad enough it will eat thru aircraft grade aluminum. trust me. you want to neutralize it as well as clean it off not start attack they body steel and paint.
 
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joyride

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NO! NO! NO! use baking soda and water. coke is bad enough it will eat thru aircraft grade aluminum. trust me. you want to neutralize it as well as clean it off not start attack they body steel and paint.

haha okay....will do. Don't have any coke here anyways...I bought the gauge though so we'll see tomorrow morning/afternoon what it sits at...the truck has 190k+ miles on it so i guess i wouldn't be surprised if the fuel pump went out...what's the most common/reliable replacement for it? walbro?

---------- Post added at 12:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:33 AM ----------

btw what should fuel pressure be anyways? 50-60 psi?
 

SunlitComet

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don't be surprised. mine lasted 240+k. their biggest flaw was ill mannered connector on the outside. and use delphi pumps a number of design changes over the years have been implemented. part# and cost will depend year and on # of doors. delphi is the oem supplier for a bunch of electrical stuff on vehicle like power blocks, sensors, injectors, fuel pumps and such.

measure pressure in first two seconds of key on engine off(pump priming the lines), after two second when pump shuts off, when at idle( and wild bouncing happening happening at all too), when flaring wot and after shut down then 5, 10 and 30 mins afterwards. obviously if the first 3-4 readings are not about at minimum of 50- then you know something is not correct but reading from all test points helps tell a story of the entire system.
 
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joyride

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it won't even stay on long enough to idle, so i could do one when the fuel pump primes but that's about it...lol will do soon!
 
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joyride

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so key on, fuel pump priming it's at 55 psi...should be good enough right? i know my s10 is 55-60psi, 60 needed to start, so i imagine that the fp pressure would go up if i were cranking it over so it appears its within range...what else could it be? i don't think our grounds are a problem?

---------- Post added at 01:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------

btw, it'll keep running if we keep spraying starting fluid into the intake but as soon as we stop with the starting fluid it dies...and that's without the intake on so the maf sensor and iac? is disconnected also...
 

SunlitComet

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55 is good enough for now.check you ground in the back and righ side of engine anyway make sure you did not pinch a harness back there. and after 3 or more start attempts scan for a logged code if you can. also in the back up top is the ignition system parts.
 
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joyride

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They all seem fine. I went back and wiggled around the wiring to make sure it was all free and loose kinda and they seem ok. I did take out the top bellhousing bolts from up top so i'm wondering if i ruined some wiring on the oil pressure switch? I believe that supplies power to the fuel pump right? We can keep the motor running with starting fluid if that means anything? I don't believe there is a passlock issue at all, the security light doesn't flash or anything.
 

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starting in 1998 fuel pressure was under total control of pcm. if it runs on starter fluid with 50+ psi while cranking then your injectors are shut down for some reason. check the ECM-1 fuse on the under-hood block and make sure the injector connector is locked down if you removed it.
 
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I checked, looked good but swapped the ecm1 fuse with another one anyways. still no start.

if the oil pressure switch was bad, would i still get oil pressure on the gauge in the dash? because it's showing it has oil pressure. should i swap out the fuel pump relay for another?
 

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