#1taho
5150TAHO
Use a heat gun or hair dryer to get the connection apart. And clean around the shaft and use penitrating fluid, it will come right out
99 Denali
- Thread starter Snowbound
- Start date
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OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Got interrupted a few times today. Had to take the boys over to my cousins house for a sleep over. Whoo hoo, no kids tonight, well, beside my 2 year old princess but she'll be sleeping at 7:30. The way I feel I might be too.
So the brown Santa showed up again today. This time it was my E-fans. So I got started on affixing them to my shroud. I've done this before on another truck but I tried to do it a little different this time around. They are 95-98 Ford Windstar fans.
First I cut my shroud to clear just the round fans and I was gonna put them in from the front and trim the structure to sit flush but my measurements were screwing me up. Not enough room between the radiator surface to the inside of shroud. I took the shroud in and out probably 4 times and then I remembered I couldn't do it that way on my other truck either but I thought it was because it had a 4 core radiator. Still no dice with this stock radiator. Oh well, so my first trim was for nothing. Made the square template and trimmed again.
Couldn't find a 5/16" X 1" piece of pipe for a spacer and 5/16" X 1/2" for other side so I had to stack washers for now. I'll swing by Menards 2mrw and pick up a couple spacers. So it's mounted in the shroud but I can't install yet until after cam gets here and gets swapped in.
I might cut the bottom fan shroud off. I think I did last time too. I'd never see it but it just looks like a catch all for anything that ever be dropped down there and knowing my luck it'll be every time I'm in there. Yeah, it's coming off.
So the brown Santa showed up again today. This time it was my E-fans. So I got started on affixing them to my shroud. I've done this before on another truck but I tried to do it a little different this time around. They are 95-98 Ford Windstar fans.
First I cut my shroud to clear just the round fans and I was gonna put them in from the front and trim the structure to sit flush but my measurements were screwing me up. Not enough room between the radiator surface to the inside of shroud. I took the shroud in and out probably 4 times and then I remembered I couldn't do it that way on my other truck either but I thought it was because it had a 4 core radiator. Still no dice with this stock radiator. Oh well, so my first trim was for nothing. Made the square template and trimmed again.
Couldn't find a 5/16" X 1" piece of pipe for a spacer and 5/16" X 1/2" for other side so I had to stack washers for now. I'll swing by Menards 2mrw and pick up a couple spacers. So it's mounted in the shroud but I can't install yet until after cam gets here and gets swapped in.
I might cut the bottom fan shroud off. I think I did last time too. I'd never see it but it just looks like a catch all for anything that ever be dropped down there and knowing my luck it'll be every time I'm in there. Yeah, it's coming off.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
I was actually prepared this time. I bought new switch and both connectors with pigtails. I remembered pulling the 60 out of my 97 and they broke then too. I thought about the heat gun but I didn't even want to attempt it without new parts here just in case. You know how it is, if you have the parts it'll come apart, if you don't have new parts it will definitely break and leave you waiting for parts. At least that's how I roll.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Also I installed the PCM tray. Are you guys tired of hearing about this PCM? I feel like I've typed PCM a million times now. Maybe I'm just tired. Enough, here's some pictures.
Scratch that shit off my list. Oh wait, I still need to make the top strap. Ok, I'm almost done with this. I could drive it this way so I'm still scratching it off my list.
I started thinking about all the shit I've ordered and money I've spent just this time around and it made me put a pen to paper.
PCM (there it is again) $38
E-fans $80
Base tune $100
Intake $460
Injectors $150
TB adapter plate $22
Trans switch and connectors $85
Intake gasket set $45
Spark plug wires $100
Machine shop $380
Camshaft $350
AFR/boost/EGT gauges $400
Intercooler and piping $200
Fuel press regulator $120
That's $2500 and I still need that $450 timing cover. Holy shit. And I need to order tuning software. Prob another 800-1000. I really need to chill for a minute after this.
Scratch that shit off my list. Oh wait, I still need to make the top strap. Ok, I'm almost done with this. I could drive it this way so I'm still scratching it off my list.
I started thinking about all the shit I've ordered and money I've spent just this time around and it made me put a pen to paper.
PCM (there it is again) $38
E-fans $80
Base tune $100
Intake $460
Injectors $150
TB adapter plate $22
Trans switch and connectors $85
Intake gasket set $45
Spark plug wires $100
Machine shop $380
Camshaft $350
AFR/boost/EGT gauges $400
Intercooler and piping $200
Fuel press regulator $120
That's $2500 and I still need that $450 timing cover. Holy shit. And I need to order tuning software. Prob another 800-1000. I really need to chill for a minute after this.
#1taho
5150TAHO
Great job. Keep up the good work. Can wait for the final product
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Let's see if this makes sense to any of you guys. I'm searching for a cam. I have a few emails out to Isky, Lunati and Comp. Because this engine is computer controlled and has roller cam, I need to keep LSA, lobe separation angle, above 112*. But being a roller you can go with less duration with a higher lift. My current cam spec is 208/220 @.050 .484/.481. I'm running a 1.5 rocker. I'm thinking I can increase my cam lift just by switching to 1.6 rockers and keep my duration low and not have to buy a new cam. My cam has a .323/.321 lobe lift which looks like this.
.322 X 1.5 = .484
.321 X 1.5 = .481
That's where we get the lift from. Now switching to 1.6
.322 X 1.6 = .515
.321 X 1.6 = .514
The duration will be effected some but not as much. I'd hate to have to wait on a custom grind. And also I won't have to tear it down any farther right now. I think that may be a plan. I would have liked to go to a 112 LSA as oppose to the 115 I have now. A 112 will be slightly lopier. But I can live with it.
Or option 3, 1.55 on intake and 1.6 on exhaust. That'll give me a little more on exhaust than intake and help scavenging. I'm gonna have to look at differences in cams N/A vs Turbo'd to see if they make changes to duration or lift based on forced air and where them changes are made. I'm thinking out loud here.
.322 X 1.5 = .484
.321 X 1.5 = .481
That's where we get the lift from. Now switching to 1.6
.322 X 1.6 = .515
.321 X 1.6 = .514
The duration will be effected some but not as much. I'd hate to have to wait on a custom grind. And also I won't have to tear it down any farther right now. I think that may be a plan. I would have liked to go to a 112 LSA as oppose to the 115 I have now. A 112 will be slightly lopier. But I can live with it.
Or option 3, 1.55 on intake and 1.6 on exhaust. That'll give me a little more on exhaust than intake and help scavenging. I'm gonna have to look at differences in cams N/A vs Turbo'd to see if they make changes to duration or lift based on forced air and where them changes are made. I'm thinking out loud here.
Chris1stgenali
TYF Newbie
This is freaking awesome!!!
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Nothing major to post. Been doing little things here and there. I did weld the header where the air pipe was for the EGR.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
The MAP sensor on the marine unit is bigger than what we use. It's actually a pressure and temp sensor in one unit and is held in place by a bolt.
Side by side comparison of the 2 and you can see the size difference.
Even the hole it goes in is slightly bigger. So my cure was to put a o-ring over the rubber grommet and it fits like a glove.
So now it sits on its home and is sealed but it's not tight enough for my liking. So I bent up a little tab and bolted it down. I had to cut off the little tabs on one side of the MAP sensor to make it work. This should be fine even with boost.
Side by side comparison of the 2 and you can see the size difference.
Even the hole it goes in is slightly bigger. So my cure was to put a o-ring over the rubber grommet and it fits like a glove.
So now it sits on its home and is sealed but it's not tight enough for my liking. So I bent up a little tab and bolted it down. I had to cut off the little tabs on one side of the MAP sensor to make it work. This should be fine even with boost.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Now I'm working on a couple vacuum ports and routing, finishing up wiring in the trans switch with new pigtails, dissecting the injector wiring harness and getting EGR wiring out.
I've decided to go with an LT4 Hot Cam from GM Performance. It has the lobe lift and duration I'm after and a 112 LSA. Should be a great fit for my needs and I'm right here, I can't not do a cam swap when that's what I need to get the engine to breathe a little more. Rocker arms can always be replaced if I feel I need more later down the road. Like I said, I'm right here and I'm waiting on heads anyway. To be continued.......
I've decided to go with an LT4 Hot Cam from GM Performance. It has the lobe lift and duration I'm after and a 112 LSA. Should be a great fit for my needs and I'm right here, I can't not do a cam swap when that's what I need to get the engine to breathe a little more. Rocker arms can always be replaced if I feel I need more later down the road. Like I said, I'm right here and I'm waiting on heads anyway. To be continued.......
