Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
BTW, those are trans am gta rims. I never had the original rims.
99 Denali
- Thread starter Snowbound
- Start date
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OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
I've been searching interweb nightly while at work. Have read numerous forum and builds of guys running aluminum head 383 with turbos. Never thought about GN forum. Figures that would be the first you thought of. Haha. Would have been my first search too if I had a GN like you. Damn it! I should!!
I did find one guy that built one and he said he had 205 heads, Chinese knock offs but they were actually pretty decent, anyway, the guys on there were telling him that he may have too much head for his build. They were all saying same thing my machine shop guy told me, smaller runners were better for throttle response. Told him they wouldn't go over 185. That made me feel better. And he was running a bigger turbo than what I'm doing. The same forums is what made me decide not to mount my turbo yet. I seen it repeated over and over, even a built 60e will not hold up to the torque and the 80e is 3x better for forced induction.
The warden just came out to garage with a box in her arms. More parts showed up. It's just my intake gasket set, park/neutral switch and connectors. My reverse lights don't work and neither do my LED _RND3_1 lights on dash. Only P and 2 light up. So I'm changing switch. I've been living with it since I've acquired the truck but I was gonna have to wire in PCM to that switch so I ordered parts. Connectors are because they always fuse themselves into the switch housing and I knew they would break coming off. And I'm pretty damn sure I can use this switch on the 80e anyway. But I didn't have to wire PCM to switch. LEXTECH programmed that function out of the program. It was only for crank relearn but it needs to be done and I wanted to be prepared. Enough BS, gotta picture. Always gotta have a picture. My motto is, "picture or it didn't happen".
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
I couldn't get a clear enough view on my phone. All I could see is they weren't some chrome 5 stars or similar. GTA wheels look good but the originals is what I like best on them. Go find some. For me at the very least. Lol
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
I said I didn't like how PCM sat in place, well, I went ahead and made a new bracket to hold it.
Removed this plastic one
Made a template from cardboard to get a rough idea what I'm working toward.
I actually had a metal shelf that I've cut pieces from for other little projects, I cut a piece to fit and bent up three sides and bend down the front and it sits in there nice and neat.
I'm going to utilize a hole in the fender and weld a piece of rod on the bottom so it's supported on fender side. I could use a couple small self tap screws but this way it's only 2 bolts to loosen and it comes right out.
Sits down lower and I'll have a top strap to keep it from bouncing.
I'm also gonna drill 2- 2" holes in the bottom of tray and dimple die it for structure and so PCM can breathe to dissipate any heat. I'll post pic of finished product after paint. Overall in happy with my 40 minute PCM support.
Removed this plastic one
Made a template from cardboard to get a rough idea what I'm working toward.
I actually had a metal shelf that I've cut pieces from for other little projects, I cut a piece to fit and bent up three sides and bend down the front and it sits in there nice and neat.
I'm going to utilize a hole in the fender and weld a piece of rod on the bottom so it's supported on fender side. I could use a couple small self tap screws but this way it's only 2 bolts to loosen and it comes right out.
Sits down lower and I'll have a top strap to keep it from bouncing.
I'm also gonna drill 2- 2" holes in the bottom of tray and dimple die it for structure and so PCM can breathe to dissipate any heat. I'll post pic of finished product after paint. Overall in happy with my 40 minute PCM support.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Looks pretty damn good! Car had some aftermarket aluminum rims when I got it, and I swapped these on. Factory GN rims are really heavy. I think somewhere around 30 lbs each, with no tire. I'm not a chrome guy anyway. Car wasn't stick when I got and it ain't stock now. Took it for a ride today, still freaking fast!!! Lol, just rubbing it in a oil bit. 
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I took a screenshot. 
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Looks pretty damn good! Car had some aftermarket aluminum rims when I got it, and I swapped these on. Factory GN rims are really heavy. I think somewhere around 30 lbs each, with no tire. I'm not a chrome guy anyway. Car wasn't stick when I got and it ain't stock now. Took it for a ride today, still freaking fast!!! Lol, just rubbing it in a oil bit.
Yeah, thanks for that. Haha.
I'll check it out. I like reading shit like this. Especially when you can learn from others mistakes and accomplishments.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I wasn't able to copy the link, but if you go to turbobuick.com and go to the front page and scroll you'll be able to find those threads. I'm sure there's a lot of good info there.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Been reading thru a couple on there. Good info from knowledgable people seems like. LS series makes things a little different but all in all still good info and great reads.
Did a little porting to spacer yesterday along with installing park/neutral switch. Phone died so I didn't get pics of switch but I will get them today.
Now you can see where this porting was relevant. Spacer sitting on top of plate would only allow just that little bit of air to be pulled under spacer via that 6-7mm gap in adapter plate. No way this engine would run or at least run smooth at idle like that. That's why I opened up spacer.
Parts got blasted and also new PCM mounting plate got its 2" dimples. Decided to do 3 to keep PCM cool.
Some flat aluminum ceramic engine paint makes brackets look pretty.
And then some black for bolts, ac bracket and shelf.
Did a little porting to spacer yesterday along with installing park/neutral switch. Phone died so I didn't get pics of switch but I will get them today.
Now you can see where this porting was relevant. Spacer sitting on top of plate would only allow just that little bit of air to be pulled under spacer via that 6-7mm gap in adapter plate. No way this engine would run or at least run smooth at idle like that. That's why I opened up spacer.
Parts got blasted and also new PCM mounting plate got its 2" dimples. Decided to do 3 to keep PCM cool.
Some flat aluminum ceramic engine paint makes brackets look pretty.
And then some black for bolts, ac bracket and shelf.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Pictures as promised.
Anyone ever change one of these? They frickin glued the connectors in the switch. Literally, they were glued in. I got them out but only by destroying the connector on switch. Then you gotta pry the damn thing off he side of trans. I wire brushed shifter rod and everything. Then the new one did not want to slide on. I didn't want to beat it on. Then I feel the rod and can feel that it's mushroomed on the end. Had to file it down in order to get new switch on. Figured 20-25 minutes to swap out switch. Yeah right! I fought that thing for over an hour and the shifter cable isn't even on yet. Whatever, I have to revisit it later anyway to adjust the damn thing. On to the next thing that needs to be done. More pics coming later.
Anyone ever change one of these? They frickin glued the connectors in the switch. Literally, they were glued in. I got them out but only by destroying the connector on switch. Then you gotta pry the damn thing off he side of trans. I wire brushed shifter rod and everything. Then the new one did not want to slide on. I didn't want to beat it on. Then I feel the rod and can feel that it's mushroomed on the end. Had to file it down in order to get new switch on. Figured 20-25 minutes to swap out switch. Yeah right! I fought that thing for over an hour and the shifter cable isn't even on yet. Whatever, I have to revisit it later anyway to adjust the damn thing. On to the next thing that needs to be done. More pics coming later.
