'99 Tahoe - Expedition Build!

[sparg93]

Fixed it...ground issue with the relay between the two batteries.

Big update today:
I just tested out the new Hawk Super Duty (SD) pads; I had been running Hawk LT. Even though I'm running 3/4t calipers (larger piston then 1/2t), I decided to go with a 1/2t pad. The 3/4t pads need to be trimmed down to fit the 6lug hat and it just didn't seem like the contact patch was optimized...so I went back to 1/2t's.

Also, when I completed this test, I made a few changes to my truck...most notably the correctly valved shocks. 5150's are too light for my truck, but the 5100's dampen perfectly.

It's impossible to tell how much each component change reduced my stopping distance. But even with the extra weight of x2 steel bumpers, winch, full spare, steel roof rack, etc the SD's produced some really nice results.

HYDROBOOST, 3/4t Master, 3/4t PS pump, 3/4t calipers, 1/2t Hawk SD (Super Duty) pads, 285/70R17, 5.0" lift

1st pass - 127 feet
2nd pass - 117 feet
3rd pass - 107 feet
4th pass - 112 feet
5th pass - 108 feet

For the complete test results and the difference between hydro and vacuum, I posted it here - http://www.gmc4x4.com/topic/119-spongy-brakes-testing/

 

[SunlitComet]

i remember someone mentioning that that sd parts should be gotten on a regular basis. i wonder who that was. ME! and they get stronger when hotter then colder. What have i always said? you must learn to be one with the suv.

 

[sparg93]

i remember someone mentioning that that sd parts should be gotten on a regular basis. i wonder who that was. ME! and they get stronger when hotter then colder. What have i always said? you must learn to be one with the suv.

I would be interested to see a comparison between the various pads Hawk manufactures and their competitors (EBC) make. The hardest part is finding good data so people can make decisions on actual results....as we all know, there's a bit of bad info floating around out there; even my data is only somewhat precise.

Once I burn through the SD's, I'm going to purchase a set of EBC's aggressive compound and I'll publish the results.

For Hawk LT vs SD, it's a no brainer...as expected, the SD's provide greater stopping power. If you bed them in correctly, they don't make any noise so it's a misnomer that they are loud.

I can't comment for how quickly they will wear down your rotors due to their aggressive bite, but if you don't buy junk, the rotors will last for many years.

 

[SunlitComet]

after 10k at least:

 

[sparg93]

Looks good Sunlit.

Some new toys arrived today!!!

As you guys may remember, I used the Samlex 600w Pure Sine inverter on my trip. Well, I decided to upgrade to the commercial version of their Pure Sine inverter line and jump to 1000w. This inverter, from everything I have read, is an incredibly robust commercial unit that can handle just about anything I can throw at and last a lifetime. Also, because of where I mount it within my console, I opted for the remote so I can easily turn the unit on/off.

So far I am blown away by the quality of everything I received today and can't wait to install and turn this puppy on. Sure, it only converts electricity, but this unit is literally top-of-the-line and will be the last one I'll ever have to buy

They also make a number of high quality units in the SSW Pure Sine and Modified Sine inverters.

Samlex PST - 1000 - 12 / RC -15A Remote / HD Install Kit

 

[saif najd]

I need to ask you regarding the lift how is it and what was the total coast and how does it feel on road and off road compared to the original stock setup?

I am looking for a lift and really need help

 

[sparg93]

I need to ask you regarding the lift how is it and what was the total coast and how does it feel on road and off road compared to the original stock setup?

I am looking for a lift and really need help

Rough Country lift - 6"

I don't recall what I paid, but expect to spend $1k - $1.5k depending on options. If you have the np246 transfer case (Auto 4wd), you should purchase their custom front driveshaft which is about $400.

If you need a shop to install the kit, I've heard guys spend $500 - $1k in labor alone depending on how well they knew the local shop.

I'm running about 4.5" of total lift and find the truck handles well, but I have so many mods it's hard for me to isolate just the pro/cons of the lift. However, I'm confident that this lift has not adversely affected the handling of the truck. But with any vehicle, once you lift it higher, you will lose some performance.

However, performance is relative when you're driving a heavy chevy to begin with...there's not much there.

My recommendation is that when you lift the truck, you should replace most of your front end components if they are still original - pitman arm, idler, idler bracket, control arms bushings, tie rods, ball joints

B/c you have to take the control arms out and your front end will be in pieces, it doesn't take that much more to put new equipment in. It will be a sizable investment, but trust me, you'll be very glad you did.

 

[saif najd]

Thank you, I am glad for your help and advices.

I was looking for a 2-3 inch lift and keeping the stock feel but I guess I have no choice but to do 4inch

Again thank you for the input

 

[sparg93]

Thank you, I am glad for your help and advices.

I was looking for a 2-3 inch lift and keeping the stock feel but I guess I have no choice but to do 4inch

Again thank you for the input

To get to 4", you will have to decrank your torsion bars about 1.5" using the RCX lift. This will actually kill your ground clearance up front b/c of the angles. Depending on the type of wheeling you do, this can be good or bad.

What size tires are you looking to run with?

 

[saif najd]

I am using my favorite size 265/75/16

I dont need more for tires my wheeling is jumping sidewalks and sand thats it I need the lift because I don't want get stuck on the tip of the dunes now I am using force by hitting it so I realy don't want that!