A/C Condenser

[01TX_Tahoe]

Anyone replace their A/C condenser before? Mine got punctured on the way home today, sounded like I had a major flat when I got home. Is it safe to drive it like this? This is my DD so I kinda have to. Pics and how to would be freakin awesome right about now too...

 

[OR VietVet]

It is safe to drive. You are hearing or was hearing the refrigerant escaping out the hole. Pretty simple to replace. The hardest part is always getting to it, making access. Make sure you replace the drier and orifice while the system is open and if you got extra money, flush it out while apart. You tube will show you ways to change.

 

[01TX_Tahoe]

I had damn near my whole front end off earlier looking at it. It doesn't seem like it would be that hard to swap out and they seem to run like $120 bucks so I think I'll survive. I'm gonna keep looking for videos online but I've only managed to find ones on changing the evaporator. I don't have to take out the radiator do I?

 

[HoS]

How knowledgeable are you on refrigerants? And their systems?
Kinda a lot to it all, plus some specialized tools.

 

[01TX_Tahoe]

Not much, never messed with the AC system. Always had my mech do it for me. I'm handy with a wrench and can do a lot but AC systems are not my forte.

 

[HoS]

I suggest keeping the ac off (maybe taking the fuse out) the pump uses the refrigerant to cool itself. Running it dry may cause damage.

Before you can charge the system you must draw a vacuum on the system, and leave it at that micron value for x amount of time. (the vacuum causes any trapped gases or water to boil off) if it can maintain the required vacuum you are good to charge it.
With larger systems I know you have to solder the connections so they are strong.

If any of that seems like to much, you may check out how much it will cost to have it done. It may be worth it.

 

[01TX_Tahoe]

I'll probably pull the fuse just to be safe, don't need to cause any more damage, especially to the AC components. I'll be looking to buy a new condenser this week and try to tackle it this weekend if possible. Luckily its still cold so I really don't need the AC but what about the defrost? Is it ok to run that?

 

[SLCHOE]

You can run heated air to the windshield but not defrost.

Defrost uses the A/C system because A/C actually dehumidifies the air, heated or not (moisture on the inside of the windshield is what you are trying to get rid of).

Replace the condenser and accumulator (this is a refridgerant reservoir that the compressor pulls from so it never runs dry while also having a dessicant drier inside to pull any moisture out of the system. Once the system is exposed to the air, the moisture in the air saturates the dessicant and renders it useless while in some cases also causing a restriction in the system. Pull the system down to 30" of Hg for 20-30 minutes with a vacuum pump and then charge the system to the spec on the label under the hood.

 

[OR VietVet]

I wish we would have talked about this before your teardown. This time of year an a/c fix may be a waste of time depending on where you live. God forbid you spend the money and fix it all and then someone runs a stop sign and slaughters your rig and you get no use out of the repair. The only thing effected at this point is the defrost cycle. The compressor would run to help remove moisture in the inside cabin air like SLCHOE said. Just unplug the compressor to keep from running and burning up and fix when it gets warmer outside. Some may disagree but that is my take. If you got money to burn then go for it or if you have it all apart them good luck.

 

[01TX_Tahoe]

You can run heated air to the windshield but not defrost.

Defrost uses the A/C system because A/C actually dehumidifies the air, heated or not (moisture on the inside of the windshield is what you are trying to get rid of).

Replace the condenser and accumulator (this is a refridgerant reservoir that the compressor pulls from so it never runs dry while also having a dessicant drier inside to pull any moisture out of the system. Once the system is exposed to the air, the moisture in the air saturates the dessicant and renders it useless while in some cases also causing a restriction in the system. Pull the system down to 30" of Hg for 20-30 minutes with a vacuum pump and then charge the system to the spec on the label under the hood.

I'll keep that in mind, thanks. I may end up just having my mech do it for me. We've worked together for years so he hooks me up pretty good.

---------- Post added at 08:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 AM ----------

I wish we would have talked about this before your teardown. This time of year an a/c fix may be a waste of time depending on where you live. God forbid you spend the money and fix it all and then someone runs a stop sign and slaughters your rig and you get no use out of the repair. The only thing effected at this point is the defrost cycle. The compressor would run to help remove moisture in the inside cabin air like SLCHOE said. Just unplug the compressor to keep from running and burning up and fix when it gets warmer outside. Some may disagree but that is my take. If you got money to burn then go for it or if you have it all apart them good luck.

I only took off the grill to see what was going on. My condenser looks like a rock or something hit it and that's where it was leaking from, towards the pass side. I'm gonna have to replace it regardless so I'm gonna see what else needs replacing and do it all at once. I only wish I had money to burn, hell, I've got a kid in college right now.