A/C Condenser

[OR VietVet]

If it isn't one thing it's another to do. Good luck with the a/c.

 

[01ssreda4]

I suggest keeping the ac off (maybe taking the fuse out) the pump uses the refrigerant to cool itself. Running it dry may cause damage.

Before you can charge the system you must draw a vacuum on the system, and leave it at that micron value for x amount of time. (the vacuum causes any trapped gases or water to boil off) if it can maintain the required vacuum you are good to charge it.
With larger systems I know you have to solder the connections so they are strong.

If any of that seems like to much, you may check out how much it will cost to have it done. It may be worth it.

See, its posts like this that make the internet a curse. He has a leak, he heard it, there's no freon. The low pressure switch will no allow the compressor to run. There is no way it can "run dry" whatever that means. And, why are you referring to the compressor as the "pump" when later you refer to the vacuum pump as a pump. Two completely different mechanical things and by throwing incorrect terms around it makes people dumber because they dont catch your error. With larger systems.....stop, this isnt one of those. No need to explain house AC systems specifics that dont apply here and only serve to further confuse people.

You can run heated air to the windshield but not defrost.

Defrost uses the A/C system because A/C actually dehumidifies the air, heated or not (moisture on the inside of the windshield is what you are trying to get rid of).

Replace the condenser and accumulator (this is a refridgerant reservoir that the compressor pulls from so it never runs dry while also having a dessicant drier inside to pull any moisture out of the system. Once the system is exposed to the air, the moisture in the air saturates the dessicant and renders it useless while in some cases also causing a restriction in the system. Pull the system down to 30" of Hg for 20-30 minutes with a vacuum pump and then charge the system to the spec on the label under the hood.

Good, intelligent answer.

 

[HoS]

A compressor most certainly can run at anytime. Who knows the condition of any switches. Pulling the fuse is a safe way to ensure it won't run, seriously, be more dumb.

Sorry about calling it a pump, it is most certainly is not a pump. While providing basic information I should take an extra step in ensuring what terminology I use is correct.

 

[OR VietVet]

If the low pressure cycling switch he is talking about is working correctly then the compressor will not engage and therefore will not run.

 

[01TX_Tahoe]

I pulled all fuses related to the A/C when I noticed it was leaking. By then it spewed probably all of what it had in it. Luckily the weather has been nice down here in TX so rolling with the windows down was fine for me. The 80 mph A/C worked great!

 

[SLCHOE]

Just unplug the compressor to keep from running and burning up and fix when it gets warmer outside. Some may disagree but that is my take. If you got money to burn then go for it or if you have it all apart them good luck.

Ron's right. Wait till the weather gets warmer. The machines can charge your A/C but to get it "dialed in", you need the spring/summer weather. Ambient temp and humodity play a large part in getting a system tuned just right and winter weather sucks for that. Do what Ron said and incapacitate the compressor. Just unplug the thing at the compressor. Wait till it warms up and get it fixed then.

 

[01TX_Tahoe]

I might just do that. We're supposed to be getting some freezing weather this week so I'll be good for another week or so.

 

[01ssreda4]

Since you are "supposed" to charge by volume of freon ambient temp does not matter. With an empty/vacuumed system you install the correct charge and you're done. Ambient does effect pressure BUT not critical here considering this is a fresh fill and not a "top off" of a low system. Wait for a season change to fix it? Give me a break. Wow you gents over-think things.

 

[HoS]

Ya, no idea why the time for year matters. If you don't know the amount of refrigerant, you use the super heat calculations to determine if over/under filled.
(or replace what you can, and have a shop vacuum and charge)

 

[SLCHOE]

Since you are "supposed" to charge by volume of freon ambient temp does not matter. With an empty/vacuumed system you install the correct charge and you're done. Ambient does effect pressure BUT not critical here considering this is a fresh fill and not a "top off" of a low system. Wait for a season change to fix it? Give me a break. Wow you gents over-think things.

Ya, no idea why the time for year matters. If you don't know the amount of refrigerant, you use the super heat calculations to determine if over/under filled.
(or replace what you can, and have a shop vacuum and charge)

First off, you charge by weight (lbs/ounces). The refrigerant label under the hood tells you how much the system was charged with at the factory when it was made.

To properly charge a system, that label gives you a ballpark figure because you have refrigerant oil already in the system (usually sitting in the condenser and compressor) that take up space (volume). This means you need to adjust the amount of charge to the vehicles current state. If you put in too little, the system will blow warmer than ideal. Put in a little too much and it will do the same.

You use pressures and temperatures using thermometers and a gauge set to "tune the system" to the current ambient temperature to get the CORRECT charge. That is the only way to do it so the system is operating at it's most efficent state.